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SimpleSimon

Evening gents
Next week got an install. A sub-pump at the bottom of an estate being fed from 200m of SWA, about 120M of this will be underground the rest cleated to a the walls and roof.
The current is 3.8 per phase on a triple pole MCB. What I would like please is confirmation on the materials needed just so I can prepare myself.

200M of SWA
External glands at both ends with banjos and fly earths.
Cable Markings for underground.
Cable markings for identification at both ends.
Cleats.
6A Triple pole MCB.
IP rated junction box to connect SWA to pump flex.
Clear sealant.

Can any of you guys think of anything else or anything Ive overlooked?

Thanks
 
Kopex, I am right is the black flexie hose conduit? Just to make it look neat for whats on show at the end of the run only. Underground because it's going across a garden, I mean buried 500mm deep when I say underground.
 
Kopex, I am right is the black flexie hose conduit? Just to make it look neat for whats on show at the end of the run only. Underground because it's going across a garden, I mean buried 500mm deep when I say underground.

Yep, that's the range of stuff. Re the underground query, I meant for the IP junction box :D Why not bring the SWA out of the ground and have the junction accessible for maintenance/testing (or are there safety implications with doing that for example)?
 
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Thanks for the link Topquark, get a nice little list going there. I love TLC :). Underground box is good but don't want a resin joint in it.

That one doesn't need resin mate, it has gasket seals around it.

Same as widdler though wouldn't be keen on burying the junction box.
 
We just use a resin joint with crimped ferules when connecting pump cables. No junction box is necessary, the joint is suitable to bury in the ground. The resin joints are extremely reliable, relatively cheap and just about indestructible. I can personally recommend this method unless the UK regs would not allow it for some reason. We leave a couple of meters of spare SWA cable in the ground at the joint in case it ever needs to be removed and remade at a later date.
 
We just use a resin joint with crimped ferules when connecting pump cables. No junction box is necessary, the joint is suitable to bury in the ground. The resin joints are extremely reliable, relatively cheap and just about indestructible. I can personally recommend this method unless the UK regs would not allow it for some reason. We leave a couple of meters of spare SWA cable in the ground at the joint in case it ever needs to be removed and remade at a later date.

Any issues with replacing the pumps then Marvo?
 
No, it's just than it looks neater in final finish. However I wouldn't have it as far buried as the SWA as you and Widdler say it than makes inacsessable for maintenance, I would just cover it slightly above the surface so obvious to those that want to find it without it standing out.

Now someone mentioned fused because of reduced CSA, would that be needed and how would I do it at that end?
 
Not really, just fit a new resin joint. It's maybe more work than if the connection was in an IP66 box but that's the trade-off for a joint that won't give troubles. I've also come across buried IP66 boxes that will hell open after a few years in the ground and also need the hacksaw treatment when the pump needs replacing.
 
No, it's just than it looks neater in final finish. However I wouldn't have it as far buried as the SWA as you and Widdler say it than makes inacsessable for maintenance, I would just cover it slightly above the surface so obvious to those that want to find it without it standing out.

Now someone mentioned fused because of reduced CSA, would that be needed and how would I do it at that end?

You should normally fuse down with a reduction in cable size. You could, in this case, fuse appropriately at the distribution end and label the circuit accordingly (puts on tin hat and protective armour).
 
You should normally fuse down with a reduction in cable size. You could, in this case, fuse appropriately at the distribution end and label the circuit accordingly (puts on tin hat and protective armour).

You probably can't , but i do like your thinking .
I would still put that isolator in place , just for service work alone !
 

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