You can fold back the conductor to crimp that with the metal part more effectively, but it is not a good idea to have any insulation in the conductor crimp section as the whole point of a reliable crimp joint is there is sufficient compression pressure to cold-weld the conductors together.I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
I saw this on Crimping Small Wires - Digital Yacht News - https://digitalyacht.net/2015/03/26/crimping-small-wires/You can fold back the conductor to crimp that with the metal part more effectively, but it is not a good idea to have any insulation in the conductor crimp section as the whole point of a reliable crimp joint is there is sufficient compression pressure to cold-weld the conductors together.
Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.
I tried to even fold wire 2x, but I just can't crimp it good, connector doesn't even hold the wire, yet alone compress it.Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.
Also the red terminals should work for 0.5mm-1.5mm cable size, and if you double-back the conductor that is down to 0.25mm which is very thin, well below what is suitable for any sort of power (current rating around 2A or so). If the doubled-over conductor is not holding then it is simply a lack of crimp force!
I refer you back to the original discussion about how rubbish those crimp tools areI tried to even fold wire 2x, but I just can't crimp it good, connector doesn't even hold the wire, yet alone compress it.
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.I refer you back to the original discussion about how rubbish those crimp tools are![]()
It will not.I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better.
Try folding the wire twice (i.e. to 4 * original thickness).Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
I don't know to solder.Use uninsulated crimps, solder the wire in and use heat shrink sleeving.
Could have done them all in less time than it takes to post on here ?
I don't know to solder.
I could only twist wires together, and use heat shrink with lighter.
It's too expensive.40,posts and OP still don't get it. buy the right tool for the job. end of. i'm out.
Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.It's more cheaper to buy solder iron and solder then to buy crimp tool.
But, I have read on one forum for car speakers: "The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint"
What can this be? Has wire oxidized maybe?
Last one seems like a good option, I saw that one today, but without cover box. I'll look at it.Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.
But sometimes you find cheaper stuff being used. Aluminium wire is hard to solder, and you also see copper wire spiralled around a thread for earphones which is also practically impossible to solder.
Crimping is quick and very reliable (more so than screw connections) if you use the correct tool. By time you bought the cheap and useless crimp tool, a soldering iron, solder, and practised soldering and not burning your fingers, you could probably have bought something like this for US $12.79:
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Hilka Ratchet Crimper tool for Crimping insulated red blue yellow Terminals | eBay
Hilka Professional Ratchet Crimping Plier tool for Insulated Red, Blue and Yellow Terminals. Designed with extra large moulded hand grips and a one handed ratchet Crimp operation for ease of use and comfort. Hardened steel jaws and precision action guarantees professional Crimping Why mess...www.ebay.com
If you simply need to join two wires, and you do not need a push-on terminal or ring tag, then just use some Wago terminals or a screw terminal block. You can probably get them in Serbia no problem but I don't know where to look and not everywhere sells them in small numbers. Here is a UK example:
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Wago 221 Series 32A 2-Way Lever Connectors 100 Pack - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Transparent, reusable connectors for solid, stranded and flexible cables. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com
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Debox 24A In-line Junction Box 50 x 102 x 28.5mm White - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. UL94 V0 Flame-retardant polypropylene. 4-pole 24A terminal block. Suitable for flat or round cable up to 4mm². Supplied with spare butterfly clip. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com