I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
IMG_20200523_140056.jpg
 
I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
You can fold back the conductor to crimp that with the metal part more effectively, but it is not a good idea to have any insulation in the conductor crimp section as the whole point of a reliable crimp joint is there is sufficient compression pressure to cold-weld the conductors together.
 
Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.

Also the red terminals should work for 0.5mm-1.5mm cable size, and if you double-back the conductor that is down to 0.25mm which is very thin, well below what is suitable for any sort of power (current rating around 2A or so). If the doubled-over conductor is not holding then it is simply a lack of crimp force!
 
Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.

Also the red terminals should work for 0.5mm-1.5mm cable size, and if you double-back the conductor that is down to 0.25mm which is very thin, well below what is suitable for any sort of power (current rating around 2A or so). If the doubled-over conductor is not holding then it is simply a lack of crimp force!
I tried to even fold wire 2x, but I just can't crimp it good, connector doesn't even hold the wire, yet alone compress it.
 
I refer you back to the original discussion about how rubbish those crimp tools are :(
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
 
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better.
It will not.

Look for a cheap ratchet style tool in your local DIY or automotive accessory type shops if you want something better.

Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
Try folding the wire twice (i.e. to 4 * original thickness).
 
Use uninsulated crimps, solder the wire in and use heat shrink sleeving.
Could have done them all in less time than it takes to post on here ?
 
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
Use uninsulated crimps, solder the wire in and use heat shrink sleeving.
Could have done them all in less time than it takes to post on here ?
I don't know to solder.
I could only twist wires together, and use heat shrink with lighter.
[automerge]1590241197[/automerge]
I don't know to solder.
I could only twist wires together, and use heat shrink with lighter.

What diameter of heat shrink sleeve should I use with there wires that are about 1 mm in diameter ?
 
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It's more cheaper to buy solder iron and solder then to buy crimp tool.
But, I have read on one forum for car speakers: "The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint"
What can this be? Has wire oxidized maybe?
 
It's more cheaper to buy solder iron and solder then to buy crimp tool.
But, I have read on one forum for car speakers: "The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint"
What can this be? Has wire oxidized maybe?
Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.

But sometimes you find cheaper stuff being used. Aluminium wire is hard to solder, and you also see copper wire spiralled around a thread for earphones which is also practically impossible to solder.

Crimping is quick and very reliable (more so than screw connections) if you use the correct tool. By time you bought the cheap and useless crimp tool, a soldering iron, solder, and practised soldering and not burning your fingers, you could probably have bought something like this for US $12.79:

If you simply need to join two wires, and you do not need a push-on terminal or ring tag, then just use some Wago terminals or a screw terminal block. You can probably get them in Serbia no problem but I don't know where to look and not everywhere sells them in small numbers. Here is a UK example:

 
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Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.

But sometimes you find cheaper stuff being used. Aluminium wire is hard to solder, and you also see copper wire spiralled around a thread for earphones which is also practically impossible to solder.

Crimping is quick and very reliable (more so than screw connections) if you use the correct tool. By time you bought the cheap and useless crimp tool, a soldering iron, solder, and practised soldering and not burning your fingers, you could probably have bought something like this for US $12.79:

If you simply need to join two wires, and you do not need a push-on terminal or ring tag, then just use some Wago terminals or a screw terminal block. You can probably get them in Serbia no problem but I don't know where to look and not everywhere sells them in small numbers. Here is a UK example:

Last one seems like a good option, I saw that one today, but without cover box. I'll look at it.
Ratchet crimp that you suggested cost about 25 Euros here, due to customs and shipping.
 

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