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I understand that good connection is desirable, but I can't afford to pay 50$ or pounds, or euros, just to crimp 2-3 wires. That's just not acceptable. I will crimp it with tool I have, or with the one I suggested to buy. I have tried them, and I am sure it will hold for longer period of time. If someone has better solution, then I will reconsider.

Just speaker wires.. Just twist em together that's what I used to do with no issue. If I couldn't find insulation tape I would use a bit of sellotape instead. Sounded great!
 
The problems with the plier type crimpers that many places sell is that they simply don't work. People sell them because people will buy them, not because they are any good :rolleyes: And people will buy them because they are labelled as "crimp tool" and they are cheap.
The main reason they don't work is that they do not properly squash the terminal down. A "decent" crimp will close the hole in such that the strands are subject to pressure from all around - done right the pressure is so high that the joint is "gas tight" (oxygen can't get in and corrode the faces of the metal). If you look at the ratchet tools people have been pointing you to, they constrain the sides of the terminal so it can't spread, and thus they close up the hole nicely.
These cheap pliers simply squash the terminal hole into an oval - leaving the strands free to migrate outwards with limited pressure on the faces that do meet. This is compounded by ---- poor geometry that means anyone less than an 800lb gorilla will not get anything like the pressure needed to create anything resembling a crimped connection. I do have a pair in my box (that I bought maaaaany years ago before I knew better), they don't get used for crimping terminals - actually they rarely come out at all and just live in a box of terminals as I'd gain nothing by throwing them out of it.
I can tell you from bitter experience, the pain of unreliable crimped connections is to be avoided. Maaany years ago I sort-of rewire my old Escort - and guess what, "crimped" many connections. I was constantly plagued by random faults caused by bad joints - including the large yellow crimp where the main power feed came off the starter solenoid :rage:
 
I gave up on crimping, I bought a solder iron, learned to solder, and I have soldered wires to the terminals of speakers.
That cost me 7 Euros, and speakers work perfectly.
Compared to 50 Euros for proper rachet crimping tool I have saved 43 Euros, and it's way better.
 
I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
View attachment 58335
Can't you get a smaller butt crimp?
 
As an aside, CoP11 for installation of LPG conversions in vehicles prohibits crimping of terminals - they have to be soldered. For the reasons made obvious in this thread - it's just so very easy to make "rubbish" crimps, and "a bit easier" to glue things together with solder.
 
As an aside, CoP11 for installation of LPG conversions in vehicles prohibits crimping of terminals - they have to be soldered. For the reasons made obvious in this thread - it's just so very easy to make "rubbish" crimps, and "a bit easier" to glue things together with solder.
Soldering can go wrong either, but I guess LPG can't afford bad crimp connections for obvious reasons.
 
Probably not the obvious reasons you are thinking of - LPG (basically commercial propane) is highly flammable, but it's completely contained.
It really is down to stopping people doing conversions with wrongly sized terminals "crimped" using the cheap plier type of tool. With soldering, at least if you get it stuck in the first place, it's most likely going to stay stuck. If you don't get it stuck, then it's normally obvious as the terminal drops off the wire between soldering and crimping the strain relief.
 
Probably not the obvious reasons you are thinking of - LPG (basically commercial propane) is highly flammable, but it's completely contained.
It really is down to stopping people doing conversions with wrongly sized terminals "crimped" using the cheap plier type of tool. With soldering, at least if you get it stuck in the first place, it's most likely going to stay stuck. If you don't get it stuck, then it's normally obvious as the terminal drops off the wire between soldering and crimping the strain relief.
If those stupid crimp tools aren't so ridiculously expensive, people wouldn't use cheap bad pliers. I mean seriously, 50 Euros or pounds for simple piece of metal? C'mon, for 50 Euros I'll buy mobile phone.
 
If those stupid crimp tools aren't so ridiculously expensive, people wouldn't use cheap bad pliers. I mean seriously, 50 Euros or pounds for simple piece of metal? C'mon, for 50 Euros I'll buy mobile phone.
Yeah but a mobile phone will only crimp yer wallet
 
If those stupid crimp tools aren't so ridiculously expensive, people wouldn't use cheap bad pliers. I mean seriously, 50 Euros or pounds for simple piece of metal? C'mon, for 50 Euros I'll buy mobile phone.
get me a samsung galaxy A70 then. i give you 100 eurines.

seriously though, with tools, you get what you pay for. mine were ÂŁ65, but i know i can rely on them. even a decent pair of wire cutters will set you back ÂŁ30.
 

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