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Discuss Extension in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

Re: how not to wire your extension

Danzor, it is my extension.

Dubbo - this is what my wife suggested. Once the build work is completed we could get an electrician in to fit a proper junction box on the socket that feeds the extension and then re-test all other sockets. Maybe then, worse case scenario is running new cables through the walls and re-plastering and painting. Maybe not the end of the world.

I am keen not to upset things, these builders did come recommended and have been doing extensions for 20 odd years. As Davethsparky said, does not mean they are great electricians of course.

I had a plumber look and he said that while he would personally also solder, the push fit connections are now designed for mains so OK.

I spoke to Building Control and they said that they do not look at electrics but so long as it is all checked a cleared by an electrician it is considered OK.

From all the great advice here, I think it possibly comes down to:

1. The 2 choc blocks are not ideal and maybe they could be replaced later with a proper junction box.
2. The main cable which runs across the floor should be checked on a regular basis to test for wear/tear.

Regarding insulation, to rock wool was only used in the roof above the Celotex - 2 layers of insulation were pout up there, all in line with architect design and building regs. The walls had similar sheets of cavity wall. The roof is solid - over engineered according to the building inspector, I have no issue with that.

I will take Dubbo's advice and invite a local electrician to take a good look, ideally between the builders finishing and building control doing their final inspection.

Going back to the floor - could the cable really get damp? The block and beam sits on the damp course bricks, they are aired underneath (suspended). So the layer between the sheet and the blocks (where the cable is) should not get wet should it? I cannot see how any water / moisture would get there (not saying it can't!).

The safe zone is something to consider - I guess this can be sorted later too - remove plaster / board, fit and re-plaster?

If some of the building work is not up to today's standard I am more keen to get it completed and then reviewed, rather than ask the builders to change everything. This will cause even more stress I think.

Thanks again for your advice - I know the thread started out as a "look at this rubbish work!" thread but it has proved very useful to me. Although maybe next time make contact privately first and suggest solutions?

Cheers

Jon.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Jon you're paying for this job and so are entitled to it being right when it's completed, all this talk of removal of things then recitification then refitting is madness imho. All it will do is cost you more, there's a few lads on here from down your neck of the woods. Dave85, Essexboy7 and a few others, there's a thread somewhere, electricians unite I think, called find an electrician in your area trawl through it and find someone who can come and take a look at this BEFORE it goes too far mate.
Now obviously, me being on Tyneside, there's no way I can vouch for someone's work who is in Essex but there's been a few who have had Essexboy7 referred to them and not one has ever come back on here complaining about him so make of that what you will.
Please don't leave this till it's too late as it will only cost you more money, stress and strain on your relationships with your loved ones.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Danzor, it is my extension.


2. The main cable which runs across the floor should be checked on a regular basis to test for wear/tear.


No it should not be installed in such a way that it can sustain foreseeable and predictable damage. If it has to run under the screed then it should be installed as close as possible to the time when the screed goes down and be provided with adequate protection against damage.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Danzor, it is my extension.

Going back to the floor - could the cable really get damp? The block and beam sits on the damp course bricks, they are aired underneath (suspended). So the layer between the sheet and the blocks (where the cable is) should not get wet should it? I cannot see how any water / moisture would get there (not saying it can't!).

They aren't putting a waterproof membrane in there just for fun! the concern is not so much about the cable getting damp, but of the cable passing from one side to the other of the membrane forming a route for damp to travel in.
Have you asked building control about this? they are the best people to advise on this. I would be getting the building control inspector to come and have a look.

I would also be concerned about their lax attitude towards the electrics, it is a building regs matter (part P of the building regs) and as such they should be there to help you with the matter if you have any reason to doubt that the work is comliant.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

The sorry conclusion to this saga was never in doubt
p://www.------.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=53932&enterthread=y
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Amazing that so many electricians have looked at it and said it is acceptable!

Am I working to the wrong set of standards or is this just starting to smell fishy?
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

I can't really comment on the fishy,I had cod and chips for dinner, my own cynical thoughts may be swayed by the taste
I think I should have taken this whole sorry saga with a pinch of salt
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

whats the problem? at least they put a couple of clips on the t and e when they installed it to the floor
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Regarding insulation, to rock wool was only used in the roof above the Celotex - 2 layers of insulation were pout up there, all in line with architect design and building regs. The walls had similar sheets of cavity wall. The roof is solid - over engineered according to the building inspector, I have no issue with that.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Extension


is that not rockwool between the 2 walls ?
last time i was in the building trade we used to put cavity wall sheets (450mm x 1200mm)of hard foam insulation that had foil on both sides, xtra-therm, kingspan, celotex etc like so
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=c...b%2Fwalls%2Finsulation%2Fsection4.htm;500;448

the purpose of the cavity wall is to stop damp getting in, and to allow the outer wall to breathe. at a guess the only reason that stuff you have in your walls has been chosen is cos it's cheaper than the cavity batts.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

You can get rockwool cavity batts, but they are a lot more solid than that stuff and they have to be pinned back to the outside skin with big washer type things that go over the wall ties.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

ah, I had not realised at the time that was rock wall! - so that's a problem too.... moisture could soak through the bricks into the cavity insulation and into the room?

I am amazed that building control do not check all this stuff if it is so important.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

OK, found a photo I took of the product, it is Earthwool DriTherm37, which is described as:

Application: Earthwool DriTherm Cavity Slabs are for the thermal insulation of masonry cavity external walls and are installed to fully fill the cavity. They are approved for use in buildings up to 12m high in any exposure zone and for use in multi-storey applications up to 25m in height.

Read more: Earthwool DriTherm Cavity Slabs Earthwool DriTherm Cavity Slabs
Follow us: @KnaufUK on Twitter

So, does that mean it is OK?
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

yeah ok it looks like it's being used as it was intended to, so don;t panic. but i would certainly not be filling the cavity right up.
 
Re: how not to wire your extension

Building control should be looking at these things if they have been called in by the builder at the correct times in the job.

According to the data on that website yes that is the right stuff, just doesn't look like any cavity batt i've seen used before!
 

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