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Heatmiser UH4 is definitely the way to go IMO. No need to use two separate wiring centres then as everything can be wired back to the UH4. Twin and three core and earth to programmer, twin and three core to boiler position, three core and earth to each thermostat position. All the zone valves, UFH pump and cylinder thermostat all connect to UH4.

I would install a rotary isolator next to the outdoor boiler for maintenance purposes.

http://www.theunderfloorheatingcompany.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/UH4.pdf
 
Heatmiser UH4 is definitely the way to go IMO. No need to use two separate wiring centres then as everything can be wired back to the UH4. Twin and three core and earth to programmer, twin and three core to boiler position, three core and earth to each thermostat position. All the zone valves, UFH pump and cylinder thermostat all connect to UH4.

I would install a rotary isolator next to the outdoor boiler for maintenance purposes.

http://www.theunderfloorheatingcompany.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/UH4.pdf
Only getting around to this job today, been all over the place as last few days, just wanted to clarify before installing cables, on the drawing for the uh4 it only shows a 3core &dearth going to the timeclock but you have stated you would run a 3 core + 2 core and Earth
 
Heatmiser UH4 is definitely the way to go IMO. No need to use two separate wiring centres then as everything can be wired back to the UH4. Twin and three core and earth to programmer, twin and three core to boiler position, three core and earth to each thermostat position. All the zone valves, UFH pump and cylinder thermostat all connect to UH4.

I would install a rotary isolator next to the outdoor boiler for maintenance purposes.

http://www.theunderfloorheatingcompany.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/UH4.pdf
Only getting around to this job today, been all over the place as last few days, just wanted to clarify before installing cables, on the drawing for the uh4 it only shows a 3core &dearth going to the timeclock but you have stated you would run a 3 core + 2 core and Earth
 
yeah because iirc it shows a 3core and earth to a programmable thermostat. if your using a normal thermostat and 3 channel programmer then you need live, neutral, earth, hw on, ch1 on and ch2 on.
 
Got a job similar to this, any recommendations for wireless thermostats, go to to put in two one for a single zone UFH and one for rads? Thanks?
 
Got a job similar to this, any recommendations for wireless thermostats, go to to put in two one for a single zone UFH and one for rads? Thanks?

Depends on how you intend to set it up..

1: programmable stats for both rads&UFH and a timer for hotwater.

2: Three channel programmer for rads, UFH and hot water with non programmable thermostats.

3 Twin channel programmer for rads and hot water and a programmable stat for UFH.
 
Looks like a Heinz 57!:) Job is for my nephew who is probably after a bit of a Gucci system and would be quite happy if I specified something which he could control from a smart phone. This is what has just sent me, any suggestions gladly received. I think the boiler may be scond hand and the cvontrols have been thrown in so not a problem if I don't use them.

I have bought a pro-warm underfloor heating water kit, it came with a grundfos Underfloor heating control pack single room thermostatic pump and Heatmiser DS1 thermostat - no wiring centre though. Plumber has fitted a Grundfos UPS2 15-50/60 central Heating pump, a Honeywell V4043H 2 and 3 port motorised valve, Wall Star condensing oil boiler and a 250l direct unvented fabdec pioneer hot water cylinder with an ESI intelligent electronic dual thermostat. I have a RDH10 Siemens digital room thermostat and a Siemens RWB29Si programmer. Would preferably use a programmable wireless room thermostat for the underfloor heating and a wired programmer with a digital wireless thermostat for the central heating.
 
Looks like a Heinz 57!:) Job is for my nephew who is probably after a bit of a Gucci system and would be quite happy if I specified something which he could control from a smart phone. This is what has just sent me, any suggestions gladly received. I think the boiler may be scond hand and the cvontrols have been thrown in so not a problem if I don't use them.

I have bought a pro-warm underfloor heating water kit, it came with a grundfos Underfloor heating control pack single room thermostatic pump and Heatmiser DS1 thermostat - no wiring centre though. Plumber has fitted a Grundfos UPS2 15-50/60 central Heating pump, a Honeywell V4043H 2 and 3 port motorised valve, Wall Star condensing oil boiler and a 250l direct unvented fabdec pioneer hot water cylinder with an ESI intelligent electronic dual thermostat. I have a RDH10 Siemens digital room thermostat and a Siemens RWB29Si programmer. Would preferably use a programmable wireless room thermostat for the underfloor heating and a wired programmer with a digital wireless thermostat for the central heating.

If the cylinder is unvented there must be more valves than the two port and three port as the three port would control rads and hot water and the cylinder would require a two port for interlock as a safety feature. TBH its sounds like the plumber isn't that clued up as the simplest way to achieve this would of been 3 x two ports for rads, UFH and hotwater. As it is atm it wont work as the three port will always sit in an open position so if the UFH calls for heat then either the rads or HW will start heating as the three port will always be open in one of the positions.

As for thermostats I would look at Honeywell
Honeywell DT92E Wireless Digital Room Thermostat | Digital Room Thermostats - https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/honeywell-dt92e-wireless-digital-room-thermostat/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Shopping%20-%20All%20Products%20-%20No%20Negs&utm_term=1100608002355

Honeywell Y6630D Y6630D1007 Y6630 - http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/heating-controls-valves-c436/honeywell-stats-programmable-wireless-c122/honeywell-y6630d-y6630d1007-y6630-pp4052

for programmable thermostats I would look at dryaton mi stats
Drayton MiStat Programmable Thermostat & Receiver MP710R | Wireless Programmable Thermostats - https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/drayton-mistat-programmable-thermostat---receiver-mp710r/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Shopping%20-%20All%20Products%20-%20No%20Negs&utm_term=1100608002355

if you want it all to be controlled via an app then heatmiser neo or hive2/hive multizone

Digital Programmable and Room Thermostat Products from Heatmiser - https://www.heatmiser.com/en/

Hive Active Heating™ | Wireless Thermostat & Heating Control - https://www.hivehome.com/products/hive-active-heating
 
yeah because iirc it shows a 3core and earth to a programmable thermostat. if your using a normal thermostat and 3 channel programmer then you need live, neutral, earth, hw on, ch1 on and ch2 on.

Hi Lee, sorry to bother you pal but you seem to be the go to man when it comes to heating around here , I'm going back to 2nd fix this tomorrow, the only question was about this extra 2core and earth I was bring to the timeclock, when connecting this at the uh4 does this just connect in with the incoming mains to the UH4, justbwamting to be on the safe side before anything is turned on as it doesn't show this cable on the wiring diagram, thanks
 
Hi Lee, sorry to bother you pal but you seem to be the go to man when it comes to heating around here , I'm going back to 2nd fix this tomorrow, the only question was about this extra 2core and earth I was bring to the timeclock, when connecting this at the uh4 does this just connect in with the incoming mains to the UH4, justbwamting to be on the safe side before anything is turned on as it doesn't show this cable on the wiring diagram, thanks

From my experience with the UH4 there isn't a facility to use a Time Clock for the UFH with a UH4, the UH8s are the only ones which offer this feature and that's when using manual thermostats.

If you're using a standard Thermostat for the HW control then it's always been advised that a Three Core and Earth is used as per wiring diagram.

Correct me if I'm wrong?
 
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