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arkin

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hello im new on here , i have allways worked commercial/industrial a family member has just had a kitchen extension done and has asked me to wire it i have virtually no domestic experiance but i said i would help . this is what i plan to do

-pull in new ring main for worktop sockets with switched fcu at worktop height to flex outlet plates for dishwasher,washing machine,dryer. all appliances are itegrated
-two seperate 4mm to cooker switches for induction hob and integrated oven
-20a dedicated radial for fridge

how does that sound
any advice would be appreciated tar
 
They only work with Ferrous pans, the heat is only generated in the metal, hence the efficiency
Crack an egg on one and nothing will happen.
There's a recent thread with someone asking about a 8.?kW induction hob, so it might be a good idea finding out what this one is rated at before guessing at cable sizes.
 
point taken tar

got another question its a lean to type thing with a vaulted ceiling thats having 80mm insulation between the rafters an 25mm insulated under that and they want downlighters .
all that insulation and im going to drill holes through it is that ok ?
 
Have to ask, .....Are you with Part P provider?? As the work you are doing for this family member is Notifiable to the LABC!!

Bloody ridiculous i know, when you are a fully trained and qualified electrician and probably far more experienced in the industry than any of these electrical trainee boy's...lol!!!
 
point taken tar

got another question its a lean to type thing with a vaulted ceiling thats having 80mm insulation between the rafters an 25mm insulated under that and they want downlighters .
all that insulation and im going to drill holes through it is that ok ?

before the ceiling goes up cut out 6" square holes where the downlights are going to go. this will allow the downlight to cool, if you just stuck it in the insulation then it would overheat and you don't want that.
infact is the 25mm below going to be on the back of a plasterboard by any chance?
just convince them to get normal lights!
 
Have to ask, .....Are you with Part P provider?? As the work you are doing for this family member is Notifiable to the LABC!!

Bloody ridiculous i know, when you are a fully trained and qualified electrician and probably far more experienced in the industry than any of these electrical trainee boy's...lol!!!


ive got to test and certify the thing and a ave the first fix looked at by the council inspector will have to buy a book of installation forms just to use one and i have 3 nic pads in the van
 
i would fit single sockets for washer etc, not flex outlets. service engineer will not be happy disconnecting hard wired appliances + the argument over whether or not warranties are voided by cutting plugs off.
 
before the ceiling goes up cut out 6" square holes where the downlights are going to go. this will allow the downlight to cool, if you just stuck it in the insulation then it would overheat and you don't want that.
infact is the 25mm below going to be on the back of a plasterboard by any chance?
just convince them to get normal lights![/QUOTE

have already shown them some nice mr16 size led from work dont think they will ave a batten fitting now lol
the leds run nearly cold thought i could keep the insulation tight ish
 
Forget about flex outlets behind the appliances, I'm a sparky with a shop that sells white goods and they are a pain in the backside to connect to or fix when they are hard wired. Why not just fit sockets in adjacent cupboards and holesaw the back of the units big enough for the plugs. You could even omit the FCU's above the worktop halving your work and the tilers! (besides looking better not having loadsa fcu's cluttering the walls)
Just fit them close to the front of the cupboards where they can be seen. Label them if it makes you feel better.
 
when will the manufacturers of these appliances make them so they will fit in with a plug and socket behind them. it's not rocket science, is it?
 

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