help with kitchen (why did i say yes ?)

[arkin]

hello im new on here , i have allways worked commercial/industrial a family member has just had a kitchen extension done and has asked me to wire it i have virtually no domestic experiance but i said i would help . this is what i plan to do

-pull in new ring main for worktop sockets with switched fcu at worktop height to flex outlet plates for dishwasher,washing machine,dryer. all appliances are itegrated
-two seperate 4mm to cooker switches for induction hob and integrated oven
-20a dedicated radial for fridge

how does that sound
any advice would be appreciated tar

 

[Silly Sausage]

or Wago could make a face plate where you can shove the appliance cable/flex into

 

[arkin]

not keen on wago dont like those spring snap shut type things

 

[arkin]

Forget about flex outlets behind the appliances, I'm a sparky with a shop that sells white goods and they are a pain in the backside to connect to or fix when they are hard wired. Why not just fit sockets in adjacent cupboards and holesaw the back of the units big enough for the plugs. You could even omit the FCU's above the worktop halving your work and the tilers! (besides looking better not having loadsa fcu's cluttering the walls)
Just fit them close to the front of the cupboards where they can be seen. Label them if it makes you feel better.

i see what your sayin just not sure on the practicality of having sockets and flex in your cupboards and i dont like the idea of having a fuse hidden behind a bolted in appliance

 

[VoltzElectrical]

you need to check the load demand of the hob/ cooker. I've got an induction range on a 10mm! Nothing wrong with flex outlets, or plugs behind appliances but check they will push back in. Otherwise go with socket outlets in cupboards. Instead of separate FCU's you could get a multigang plate placed somewhere else in the kitchen to avoid so many tiling issues but with kitchen design, there are so many options, all with cost and aesthetic implications.

 

[arkin]

you need to check the load demand of the hob/ cooker. I've got an induction range on a 10mm! Nothing wrong with flex outlets, or plugs behind appliances but check they will push back in. Otherwise go with socket outlets in cupboards. Instead of separate FCU's you could get a multigang plate placed somewhere else in the kitchen to avoid so many tiling issues but with kitchen design, there are so many options, all with cost and aesthetic implications.

wow 10mm wtf thought they were energy efficient

 

[Tonkatoy27]

i see what your sayin just not sure on the practicality of having sockets and flex in your cupboards and i dont like the idea of having a fuse hidden behind a bolted in appliance

if you don't want the flex trailing through the cupboard then drill a small hole about 30mm from side of cupboard where flex would exit plug. Then chop off manufacturers plug and sod the warrentee. (it's crap anyway, what manufacture would successfully get out of fixing a faulty appliance if the plug had been changed by a qualified electrician?) that way you only see 20 or 30mm of flex before it pops through the hole. It's just a bit of a git when us delivery guys have to change the washing machine when it packs up in 6 years time. (or 13 months if it's an indesit)
I've fitted literally hundreds in cupboards and have had no issues. I can honestly say I've had more call outs where a bottle or something has been pushed to the back of the worktop and turned off the spur feeding the dishwasher or whatever. I like fixing them!

 

[Silly Sausage]

If any of these appliances come fitted with plugs, just put socket outlets at the back of the adjacent cupboard, perfectly acceptable (see the IET guide to building regs book). Either cut a hole to pass the plug through or drill a small hole and rewire the plug. The chances of the urgent need to totally electrically isolate any of these appliances is miniscule. And if you do get a house fire, the Brigade will just break in and kill the power at the CU

 

[arkin]

thanks for the help everyone

 

[joe j]

"If its a new build extension, i would pull in 2 x 6mm radials for oven and hob regardless." Good idea Jason.
Why not radials (20 or 32A) for the power?
Cutting big holes in insulation is technically naughty.

 

[mickys86]

not keen on wago dont like those spring snap shut type things

You just insulted my favourite tool haha

 

[DurhamSparky]

back to the part p bit....! #6 by E54....

if its a new build extension the installation will get signed off by the building inspector as part of the Overall LABC application ... (he will want to see the electrical paperwork any way)

 

[arkin]

back to the part p bit....! #6 by E54....

if its a new build extension the installation will get signed off by the building inspector as part of the Overall LABC application ... (he will want to see the electrical paperwork any way)

thats right he has to see the first fix and then the installation cert

 

[Taylortwocities]

Two points. From my experience.

1. Induction hobs. They are efficient in the way that energy is passed from the electro-mag innerds to the pan but they require the full monty wrt current feed. Many have a boost feature and if the hob is rated for 8KW then you must size the feed and cpd for 8KW with no diversity. 10mm² is not unusual.

2. Downlights in insulated, vaulted ceilings. If this is a new extension and LABC is involved they will NOT let you cut out the nice energy efficient insulation to allow you to put rececced torchlights in the ceiling. The BC guys around here are v. hot on that. Wall lights are nice though



PS Edit. You can download free BS7671 Installation Certs from the IET website. No need to buy a book full.

 

[Paul.M]

"Then chop off manufacturers plug and sod the warrentee. (it's crap anyway, what manufacture would successfully get out of fixing a faulty appliance if the plug had been changed by a qualified electrician?)"


Thank you Tonkatoy27, cutting off the manufacturers plug only invalidates the warranty if they can prove that the replacing of the plug caused the fault.

 

[topquark]

and don't forget you'll need an FCU for the extractor hood over the hob space (above the wall unit height).