Holesaws for stainless. | on ElectriciansForums

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Andy 7671

Been using cobalt tipped pilot bit with Bosch powerchange holesaws, the bayonet ones. Fine for the odd isolator or two but we have a fair few (51 on 1 panel alone)to drill.

Gonna get some proper cutting oil, rather than making do with trefolex so was wondering..

Any recommendations for holesaws...?

And for that matter cutting oil.

Thanks.
 
Well thanks, I think so.

Personally I get comfortable and drill fairly slowly without stopping as the heat will temper the metal, causing it to become even harder.

Ill admit I have lost patience a couple of times, especially when theyve burnt my holesaw to bits and given me Diston or defiance in return.

Biggest leap forward in control came from using cutting oil not trefolex, nice controlled speed with no smoke at all and no discolouring of metal.

Some people have said they pulse cut...WTF...? Im guessing they mean start stop start stop didnt really pay much attention though.


Anything Ive missed...?
All
 
Well you seem clued up my only suggestion is pre-drill all pilot holes without cutter in place as braking through stainless isnt always easy to control the holesaw tips hitting the stainless and getting damage thus frustrated cutting with already blunt cutter, fit cutter after pilot hole has been drill this way the tips stay as sharp as possible.
 
Love it...class, many thanks.

Managed to get to the point where I have a few spares squirreled away now.

Any favourite brands...?

Ill click on Starretts website later but first hand experiance is always handy.
 
Agree with the laser cutting, or water jet.. Less chance of rust with water jet, and there normally more accommodating, unless you have a good laser cutting co. I have only used starrett hole saws for this, but think reca do some more advanced bits..Find LDX METAL CUTTERS on there site. Might be the ones you already have?!
 
Starret good brand avoid cheap ones in this situe and if possible create an enclosure effect possibly with clingfilm around the end your working on then pour cutting fluid in a thin layer like a mini resevoir but not too much it floods through hole, this way its self lubing and should keep cutters in good order, basically use a bit of intuition and problem solving skills to reduce time and money..... cant suggest any more as every situe different but be aware you probably need to clean the stainless after its had a soaking of cutting oil.
But must ad the laser cutting or water jet cutting is your best bet as already suggested because of the sheer no' of holes and probably cost effective and have a few extra cut and plug them off for spares.
 
Last edited:
Why dont you make a template and get panel laser cut - pricey but will save you loads of labor, cutting bits and stress!

Wow, thanks but Im not that far up the food chain.

Just wanna be efficient if they give me the task.

Drilled 20 odd holes with one decent Dormer bit, incidently while I was buying it he told me to keep bits seperated as tips banging on tips blunt very quickly.

Ill have the gland plate on a bench (Well stack of pallets and ply) shouldnt take more than a day.....
 
Agree with the laser cutting, or water jet.. Less chance of rust with water jet, and there normally more accommodating, unless you have a good laser cutting co. I have only used starrett hole saws for this, but think reca do some more advanced bits..Find LDX METAL CUTTERS on there site. Might be the ones you already have?!

Cheers for that Ill have a gander now.

Baby oil is good for getting smears off and polishing stainless.
 
i always mark up the plate, and punch it with a spring punch. I then pilot all holes with a normal drill bit, and then follow with the cutter. Weve just started using some cutting paste at work, cant remember the name, but its yelo, and in a yellow tin. Good stuff, and much better than trefolex.
 
If you want a bit of advice there is a guy called john cove at starret who is very helpful and deals with cutting tools poss give him a bell?
 

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