How to extend cables neatly when replacing consumer unit.

[HappyHippyDad]

I had a consumer unit replacement today. It was a bit of a nightmare as most of the cables were too short for the new unit.

I extended the ones that required extending with crimps and a bit of heat shrink, but it took forever.

Are there any other options that are easier? I don't really like the idea of wago's as they just get crammed in and it gets very messy.

I suppose the only real way of avoiding all the crimps is to have a separate box next to the consumer unit with a din rail in it and appropriate connectors. This would look a bit crowded though, take just as long and be more expensive.

What do you guys usually do?

 

[Flanders]

No used one of these yet but look a good idea

Wiska Consumer Unit Relocator

I've always used crimps in the past but find they dont work to well with solid core cable

 

[Dumb founded]

I had a consumer unit replacement today. It was a bit of a nightmare as most of the cables were too short for the new unit.

I extended the ones that required extending with crimps and a bit of heat shrink, but it took forever.

Are there any other options that are easier? I don't really like the idea of wago's as they just get crammed in and it gets very messy.

I suppose the only real way of avoiding all the crimps is to have a separate box next to the consumer unit with a din rail in it and appropriate connectors. This would look a bit crowded though, take just as long and be more expensive.

What do you guys usually do?

It would be ideal if we could all spend time making a mains board look pretty but in my opinion and the opinion of those I’ve worked with the saying ‘it’s there to operate and not to fascinate’ is always branded around. If a cable reaches its final destination without the use of a through crimp then I would make it reach. That way you eliminate the potential for a fault on your through crimp. It sounds to me like the way you have done it is the most efficient and cost effective way that has been used for years. Heat shrink on through crimps within and enclosure is belt and braces so well done for that one. I personally have never used heat shrink to extend a cable on a mains change unless it has warranted it but fair play.

 

[pirate]

I just like it to be neat and easy to identify the various cables, so an adaptable box, or something like the Wiska ready-made option is a preferential route. You can identify and label all the incoming cables, and extend them as much or as little as you need, with no crimps to provide a possible failure point. That way, everything arriving into the new CU is clean and clear, and any possible faults are in the adaptable box, easily accessible and easy to test. Extending cables with crimps is maybe fine if you can be sure of sound connections, but accessibility and visual checks make the DIN rail extensions a preferred route for me.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

No used one of these yet but look a good idea

Wiska Consumer Unit Relocator

I've always used crimps in the past but find they dont work to well with solid core cable

They look perfect for the job, but you've kind of added on £200 when labour is taken in to account.
I'm guessing crimping is the usual method. I should perhaps take a closer look at the inside of the board during the pre-works visit and see if I feel cables are going to need to be extended, then factor in an extra hour or 2.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

I think I may start actually using the wiska box. I'll loose out on a few quotes but I'll enjoy the job more and it will be a better end product. I have a feeling that I'll be surprised at how few quotes are actually lost by adding on £200 to make it a far better job.

Thanks for the reply's

 

[ipf]

Must say I've generally used the 'crimp it if needed' method. Only a small percentage of cables may need extending.
Never had a failure in forty odd years so it depends on doing it properly, I suppose.
Not really concerning CU's, but extending with hardly any length can be a right b....ache.

 

[davesparks]

I think I may start actually using the wiska box. I'll loose out on a few quotes but I'll enjoy the job more and it will be a better end product.

Be wary of falling into the trap of extending everything just because you can/have a box pre-populated with the connectors to do it.

Neatness is obviously important but adding joints just to get the picture-perfect look is, in my opinion, just adding potential points of failure.

 

[davesparks]

I extended the ones that required extending with crimps and a bit of heat shrink, but it took forever.

If they are insulated crimps then additional insulation isn't required inside an enclosure. With a decent pair of crimpers and a little practice it doesn't take very long.

Are there any other options that are easier? I don't really like the idea of wago's as they just get crammed in and it gets very messy.

The newer in-line wago 221-2411 would be my choice for extending a few cables in these situations. If it's a lot of cables that need extending then I'd go with a seperate enclosure with din rail connectors.

Once the old CU is off then, depending on how the cables get to it, you can often either give them a bit of a pull to gain any slack that has been left in them or move the new CU a bit to gain a few crucial inches.

 

[mart spark]

Try using the ideal inline tooless through crimps, if extending inside the enclosure on smaller cables, it's neat and timesaving.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

If they are insulated crimps then additional insulation isn't required inside an enclosure. With a decent pair of crimpers and a little practice it doesn't take very long.


The newer in-line wago 221-2411 would be my choice for extending a few cables in these situations. If it's a lot of cables that need extending then I'd go with a seperate enclosure with din rail connectors.

Once the old CU is off then, depending on how the cables get to it, you can often either give them a bit of a pull to gain any slack that has been left in them or move the new CU a bit to gain a few crucial inches.

I hadn't seen those before. Buying a pack now, thanks

 

[davesparks]

Try using the ideal inline tooless through crimps, if extending inside the enclosure on smaller cables, it's neat and timesaving.

Tool-less crimps? How on earth does that work?
I can't imagine any way you can make an effective crimped connection without using some kind of tool.

 

[SparkySy]

I think what are being referred to are these.

Ideal Industries In-Line Push-In Wire Connectors

With its small size and tool-free application, the SpliceLine® from Ideal Industries is a real time-saver when it comes to connecting wires in a wide range of installations - particularly prefabricated wiring, lighting and ring main circuits.Existing wire cut too short? Space too tight to use a...

www.toolstation.com

I have had mixed results with these particular connectors. I actually saw some failed ones in the rear of a socket box that had got very warm and glued themselves to the backbox. Tended to shy away from them since that!
I do like the wago inline connectors they feel a lot more positive on a pull test!
Can't beat a properly terminated crimp though!!
Sy

 

[ipf]

I think he's on about the Ideal push wire connectors....can't be a crimp without a crimper.
Every replacement is different but the time for the connection boxes is probably where all the cables enter a unit at the same point or from the same direction. A lot of existing CU's have additional cables coming from all angles.

 

[timhoward]

I think what are being referred to are these.

Ideal Industries In-Line Push-In Wire Connectors

With its small size and tool-free application, the SpliceLine® from Ideal Industries is a real time-saver when it comes to connecting wires in a wide range of installations - particularly prefabricated wiring, lighting and ring main circuits.Existing wire cut too short? Space too tight to use a...

www.toolstation.com

I got excited at the low price when I saw these and bought a pack about 6 months ago. I've never been convinced they make reliable low resistance connections and I wasted a while 'fault finding' on a board change when the connector was to blame. The wago inline are honestly much better and worth the extra money in my humble opinion.