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Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Basically the kit ones rubbish!!
the kit one is ÂŁ35 body only in otherwords the guarentty iis worthless as it costs more to ship it to them than to buy a new one XD.

get a 458 or 481.

458 is around ÂŁ70 body only, i got my 481 for around 100 body only


makita 10.8 drill is nearly as powerful as the 453 XD
 
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Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

the kit one is ÂŁ35 body only in otherwords the guarentty iis worthless as it costs more to ship it to them than to buy a new one XD.

get a 458 or 481.

458 is around ÂŁ70 body only, i got my 481 for around 100 body only


makita 10.8 drill is nearly as powerful as the 453 XD

Where as those prices seem very low!!
 
Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Can anyone see how using the impact for drilling will damage it, in my opinion it's the same as drilling long screws in.??
 
Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Can anyone see how using the impact for drilling will damage it, in my opinion it's the same as drilling long screws in.??
I'd say basic science ... long screws have a small point to start the process and wood bits have a wide spread!
 
Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

I'd say basic science ... long screws have a small point to start the process and wood bits have a wide spread!

So what's that mean, you think it will or won't?

Personally, the impact I feel is designed to impact screws round and so it should be fine with the wood bits, if it was t budging the wood bit I wouldnt use it as , it can move a 25mm wood bit faster than a 3-4 inch screw!!

I'll email Makita and see what they think haha should be an interesting response
 
Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Update, Makita say they don't recommend it as its not been tested for this type off use as it's not designed for this, but can't see how it will damage it either,
Off coarse they will say this as they want you to buy their higher end drill . They said if if it wasn't coping , if using the brushless motor it would just cut out Ect.

I even explained I like it cuz it's nice and short and effortless at awkward angles and no change of any snagging ect
 
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Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Just out of interest,the Armeg beaver "nail-proof" bits are specifically designed to work on an impact driver. There ability to cope with hitting a foreign body,is greatly enhanced,with repeated short-blows. High torque,constant rotation would cause the bit to encounter longer duration torque events,and probably shear off.

Right,that's the science out of the way...What i can never understand,is lads will have dozens of fancy bits,and not think to purchase a small diamond hone,with which to fettle them.

The key to ANY bit performing at its' best,is the correct profile to be maintained,on the cutting edges.

I have auger bits from Armegs latest range,going back to Shipwrights Breast-drill longs,from the 1800's. They ALL work best,when sharp.

They also ALL need either sharpening,or re-dressing,from time to time. Diamond hone for the edges,and a 6" triangular saw-set file,for the screw point,if fitted.

The added benefits to this practice,aside from engendering a pride in ones tools and ones work,is less load on the drive device,cleaner holes (giggerty) and reduced break-out.

Listen lads,if your missus can spend an hour,filing her nails when she already has your heart...i'm sure you can give your bits an occasional buff :coolgleamA:
 
Re: Impact vs conbi drill for drilling holes

Just out of interest,the Armeg beaver "nail-proof" bits are specifically designed to work on an impact driver. There ability to cope with hitting a foreign body,is greatly enhanced,with repeated short-blows. High torque,constant rotation would cause the bit to encounter longer duration torque events,and probably shear off.

Right,that's the science out of the way...What i can never understand,is lads will have dozens of fancy bits,and not think to purchase a small diamond hone,with which to fettle them.

The key to ANY bit performing at its' best,is the correct profile to be maintained,on the cutting edges.

I have auger bits from Armegs latest range,going back to Shipwrights Breast-drill longs,from the 1800's. They ALL work best,when sharp.

They also ALL need either sharpening,or re-dressing,from time to time. Diamond hone for the edges,and a 6" triangular saw-set file,for the screw point,if fitted.

The added benefits to this practice,aside from engendering a pride in ones tools and ones work,is less load on the drive device,cleaner holes (giggerty) and reduced break-out.

Listen lads,if your missus can spend an hour,filing her nails when she already has your heart...i'm sure you can give your bits an occasional buff :coolgleamA:

i do peg that's why i have a leather shammy anyway whats the sawset file? im guessing its the really small triangle ones you get
 
The boss wasn't in today and so I went in with my kit in the fatmax rucksack on the motorcycle aiming to run feeds for 2 ring circuits, needed to drill 6 joists, old wood, up to 75mm thick. Used my 10.8 Bosch impact with a Bosch speed flat blade 3 amp/hr battery. It aced it, I was so impressed I now don't regard the 10.8 as inferior or starter kit but very adaptable. Learning new things every hour of everyday.
 
Thanks to Joehat bringing this to my attention while I was having a read through the forum, this forum is invaluable. Thanks also to all the regular sparks that freely share their experiences and help us new 'uns improve.
 

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