Is this possible?

[uksparks]

Hi,

Just said to someone on the phone, yeah I can do that for you, 10 min job, no problem then just gave it an ounce of thought and realized I probably cant.

Heres the situation,

Standard pull cord switch on ceiling, wants it swapping for a PIR.

Can I do it without doing anything to the wiring?, probably not im guessing... I need a neutral done i...



Or can I run both wires from the switch into the line and neutral at the bottom and bridge across, or will that not work?

 

[micknew]

Is the heater not on a separate circuit to the light ?

Good point because by modifying connections in the base of the unit you could replace the cord switch with an PIR sensor switch.
The heater part of the unit is normally switched by a cord hanging from the unit.

 

[Flanders]

Yes I always thought the heater was fed from its own circuit from the CU other wise you have a heater on a lighting circuit and with all them 100 watt light bulbs on the same circuit (back in the 70;s) you would soon be blowing the 5 amp 3036 fuse Mind you I have never seen how they are wired so I could be wrong

 

[uksparks]

That's true. It's one of those old flying saucer things with asbestos in so would rather not take it off the ceiling to be honest.

ive just pope round too see as it's only local, it's a 3036 board, old flying saucer, pull switch is right next to the door.

He would ideally like the switch on the outside wall of the bathroom, I could easily do that but there's no flipping rcd... So cannot just stuff cables in the wall.

the pir idea had kind of come to a halt as have no neutral too. I really don't want to be taking the light off the ceiling as it's definitely an asbestos one as have seen loads if them, probably fall apart at the same time anyway.

oh and the bathroom is downstairs...

any thoughts not involving up selling a new CU or RCD as that's not really possible either.

 

[uksparks]

That light heater thing, all the ones I've seen are wired on the light circuit, not saying they are all like that, but certainly the last few I have taken out have been.

 

[Flanders]

Why does he want to get rid of the pull cord sound like a load of work with no gain

 

[Flanders]

I stand corrected I have never taken one down just thought that's how there wired Mind you I should of known after all my mum had one and an iron that plugged into the light fitting

 

[uksparks]

The bloke wants the pull switch taking out as it reminds him if his wife who died of cancer last year every time he pulls it as she used to get up in the night and he would hear it.

I can understand why he wants it changed, I feel sorry for him but now don't know what to suggest that's easy and compliant...

 

[NickD]

He would ideally like the switch on the outside wall of the bathroom, I could easily do that but there's no flipping rcd... So cannot just stuff cables in the wall.

any thoughts not involving up selling a new CU or RCD as that's not really possible either.

If you mean outside the bathroom: Neatly surface mount in trunking? Small profile trunking is available for 1.0/1.5mm T&E which doesn't look too foul. Earthed-metallic sheath cable or other earthed containment?

A pull-cord switch that sounds sufficiently quiet/different?

 

[davesparks]

All plastic trunking looks carp, regardless of how small or well fitted it is.
The foil screen in FP200 is rated for compliance with the earthed-metallic-screen exception to the RCD for buried cables rule.

But you still have the requirement for RCD protection for all bathroom circuits.

 

[uksparks]

Thanks.

my only concern is extending the circuit with no RCD as it's not really allowed is it.

 

[Flanders]

The bloke wants the pull switch taking out as it reminds him if his wife who died of cancer last year every time he pulls it as she used to get up in the night and he would hear it.

I can understand why he wants it changed, I feel sorry for him but now don't know what to suggest that's easy and compliant...

Now it sound like a Job that has to be done ,very sad about his wife. I think the best answer is mini trunking but show the customer a sample first other wise go for the PIR that doesn't need a neutral

 

[uksparks]

I think I'm just going to have to tell him he either needs a new light in the bathroom and scrap the heater light so I don't have to take it apart and risk it not going back together again, this way I could probably fish a neutral to the switch.

the only other solution is tell him he needs a fuse board upgrade and probably extra work like bonding, I don't want to go down this route as he's an old boy who just doesn't want to be reminded of his dead wife.

 

[uksparks]

The PIR requires the light to stay on for more than 12 hours a day to keep the battery charged to keep it working, so can't do that.

I cant do the mini trunking as would be extending the circuit and have no RCD protection.

bugger isn't it.

 

[davesparks]

Thanks.

my only concern is extending the circuit with no RCD as it's not really allowed is it.

You have to apply knowledge, experience and professional judgement.
The world is full of installations which were installed to a perfectly good standard and set of regulations, they are only now non-compliant because someone re- wrote the rules.
Assess all possible implications of making this alteration without strict adherence to the regulations and then use your judgement to decide what you should do.

The regulations are non-statutory and if you have suitable knowledge and experience you can decide whether making a deviation is acceptable or not.

 

[NickD]

Taking the switch outside the bathroom is not an addition within the bathroom and such an addition would not IMHO impair the safety of the existing installation (MWC form wording).

5 Amp Pull Cord Switch - Contactum

"Quieter action than most ceiling swithches"

Go home TLC, you're drunk.