kitchen rewire

[Dalf]

Don't do a lot of domestic myself but am rewiring my kitchen.
I don't really want a load of fused spurs above the work tops so looking at what ppl do usually when the same has been required?
Is it just sockets low down at the back of units or grid switching?

Thanks

 

[AndrewMgan1976]

I like the idea of grid switches for local isolation but there might be problems when terminating rfcs across the input terminals as the switches are only rated for 20A. Besides this, have you ever tried to fit a 3 ganged grid switch into a 25mm backing box with all its incumbent cables ?

Why not use a deeper back box then??

Where is the problem terminating RFC's across a 20A DP switch, where do you stand on connecting a RFC across a 13A socket??

 

[ackbarthestar]

Why not use a deeper back box then??

Where is the problem terminating RFC's across a 20A DP switch, where do you stand on connecting a RFC across a 13A socket??

Why not, indeed.

However, it appears that 20A DP switches are only rated for 20A and not 32A
and as for BS 1363 accessories, the terminations are designed for 32A - not that we would get anywhere near that for a basic rfc

- - - Updated - - -

Why not use a deeper back box then??

Where is the problem terminating RFC's across a 20A DP switch, where do you stand on connecting a RFC across a 13A socket??

Why not, indeed.

However, it appears that 20A DP switches are only rated for 20A and not 32A
and as for BS 1363 accessories, the terminations are designed for 32A - not that we would get anywhere near that for a basic rfc

 

[Kate]

I like the idea of grid switches for local isolation but there might be problems when terminating rfcs across the input terminals as the switches are only rated for 20A. Besides this, have you ever tried to fit a 3 ganged grid switch into a 25mm backing box with all its incumbent cables ?

Ive fitted an 8gang grid switch into my own kitchen.

use a deeper box. I plan ahead..when I know what front plate is going on I can fit a relevant backbox

 

[Rockingit]

Every kitchen layout is different, so without being there it's hard to give the best advice but generally the best way to avoid clutter is to opt for a grid system (Click make a double width 32A DP switch as well so you can even dispense with cooker switches, too), and then my solution to the outlet problem is to use single 13A trailing sockets on 1.5mm heat flex (which is more than sufficient loading wise) just presenting straight out of the plaster towards the bottom of the wall where the appliance is due. That way, you've 1) always got enough lead to pull things in and out, 2) can throw the plug/socket anywhere adjacent where it's out of the way and 3) there's nice easy to work with flex in the grid box.

 

[ChrisElectrical88]

yes, really

idiot.

 

[arkin]

I'd go EU - looks good and easy for fault finding as well as inspection and testing.
that is:
10mm2 sub main from main board feeding a Kitchen ccu
Conduits buried down the wall.
Radials on B16A to pairs of sockets and individual appliances
Lights on one or two B6A

sounds a bit over the top to me. op only wants to rewire a kitchen.

 

[ChrisElectrical88]

Think he's taking the pee!

 

[arkin]

Think he's taking the pee!

Ok it was definately over the top. Over the top of my head

 

[sparks will fly]

don't forget it's notifiable work so unless ur qualified and registered or contact your local authority first (who will charge you) you shouldn't be doing the work. why would you think it's grid switching down below?that makes no sense.1 fused spur or isolation switch feeds 1, usually unswitched socket which the appliance plugs into

I wouldn't notify if it was me doing it in my house.

 

[Geordie Spark]

By 'qualified' do you mean 'completed a Electrical Trainee domestic installer course'? Correct me if I'm wrong but judging by some of your latest posts I would hazard a guess as to this being your entry in to the trade. I only mention this because it would seem that even though the OP stated that he doesn't really carry out domestic electrical installation work, you have taken this to mean that he is not qualified (I'm guessing because domestic work is all you are used to)?? I however would take this to mean that he is qualified but works mainly in the commercial field.

My personal assumptuion is that the guy is more than competent to do what he is doing in his OWN kitchen and is purely looking for asthetic advice rather than electrical advice, therefore my suggestion is that giving out that asthetic advice based on your 'extensive experience' in the domestic field would be far more helpful than teaching a perfectly competent and more qualified man how to suck eggs.

That's a nice 88 mm gun you just fired there Rommel. :devil2:

 

[Stonesman]

I was thinking about this the other day...

If a grid switch is on a ring then surely a 4G grid switch is just 4 spurs - when only one is allowed... Am I missing something?

Personally... I think fused spurs above a counter clutter the look - I always try to mount a socket in the adjacent base unit to the appliance - this way it's accessible.

Another thing about using an un-switched socket fed from a grid switch directly behind the appliance - what it the plug-top fuse blows?

It's my 1st post so be gentle... lol


Stones

 

[Dave 85]

I sometimes just leave a ring pair under the units on first fix then stick a single socket/isolator in the back of the cupboard nest to each appliance.

Now some people say its naughty to put electrical outlets in cupboards.
To these people I say this...
Yawn zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

 

[Geordie Spark]

I was thinking about this the other day...

If a grid switch is on a ring then surely a 4G grid switch is just 4 spurs - when only one is allowed... Am I missing something?

Personally... I think fused spurs above a counter clutter the look - I always try to mount a socket in the adjacent base unit to the appliance - this way it's accessible.

Another thing about using an un-switched socket fed from a grid switch directly behind the appliance - what it the plug-top fuse blows?

It's my 1st post so be gentle... lol


Stones

You're safe .. we've been fed today.

Be careful tomorrow though ................

 

[Dave 85]

By 'qualified' do you mean 'completed a Electrical Trainee domestic installer course'? Correct me if I'm wrong but judging by some of your latest posts I would hazard a guess as to this being your entry in to the trade. I only mention this because it would seem that even though the OP stated that he doesn't really carry out domestic electrical installation work, you have taken this to mean that he is not qualified (I'm guessing because domestic work is all you are used to)?? I however would take this to mean that he is qualified but works mainly in the commercial field.

My personal assumptuion is that the guy is more than competent to do what he is doing in his OWN kitchen and is purely looking for asthetic advice rather than electrical advice, therefore my suggestion is that giving out that asthetic advice based on your 'extensive experience' in the domestic field would be far more helpful than teaching a perfectly competent and more qualified man how to suck eggs.

Well put!

 

[Dave 85]

Why not use a deeper back box then??

Where is the problem terminating RFC's across a 20A DP switch, where do you stand on connecting a RFC across a 13A socket??

My sentiments exactly.