Making off SWA

[WaterSparky]

Whats your preferred way? What you thinks easier? Any useful tools made for terminating it?

My way is to score with a junior.
Then when making off the gland I like to use an adjustable with slip joint pliers.
Then when stripping the inner to reveal the conductors, I use bending and a sharp blade.

Just a question on what tools and tricks you guys use to terminate it.

Cheers

 

[iamelectric]

i also use the heater in the van , and usually tape the compression spings after putting them on and tape the full torpedo after filling al try bending the wites back next time

 

[iamelectric]

dont think anyone really needs to know but we are all sad cases and would rather sit on here and swap storys and tips coz its better than listen to the girlfriend or watchin eastenders

am off now the apprentice is on

 

[Andy78]

i also use the heater in the van , and usually tape the compression spings after putting them on and tape the full torpedo after filling al try bending the wites back next time

I have always taped the compression springs and braid too, never really feels much more than a scraping join without it. Ditto also with wrapping the joins of the cast shell in tape. Some brands are really good pliable plastic that works well, others are horrible brittle stuff that will leak from everywhere without mummification in tape.

Does heating the compound really work ? usually gets pretty hot on it's own when mixed.

My tip would be to cut the phases at different lengths along the joint as it can be easier to get the crimpers in, with a bit of planning.

 

[iamelectric]

deffo use the heater , when ur down a hole and its -5 you dont need to waste 10mins playin with it , also heats ur hands up when u cant feel them after doing the connections

hope the blonde bird wins

 

[WaterSparky]

Cheers guys I was just making off 16 x 7 core 1.5mm2 today and I thought if anyone did it radically different. Or if those swa tools were any good.

Cheersen

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I have always taped the compression springs and braid too, never really feels much more than a scraping join without it. Ditto also with wrapping the joins of the cast shell in tape. Some brands are really good pliable plastic that works well, others are horrible brittle stuff that will leak from everywhere without mummification in tape.

Does heating the compound really work ? usually gets pretty hot on it's own when mixed.

My tip would be to cut the phases at different lengths along the joint as it can be easier to get the crimpers in, with a bit of planning.

and a good tip it is as well with scotchcasts

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I have always taped the compression springs and braid too, never really feels much more than a scraping join without it. Ditto also with wrapping the joins of the cast shell in tape. Some brands are really good pliable plastic that works well, others are horrible brittle stuff that will leak from everywhere without mummification in tape.

Does heating the compound really work ? usually gets pretty hot on it's own when mixed.

My tip would be to cut the phases at different lengths along the joint as it can be easier to get the crimpers in, with a bit of planning.

heating the wisca pack will certainly help in the catalisation process....

 

[Gage]

Tape up first, scoring with hacksaw, trim strands with heavy duty snips, bla bla bla, tighten up with 2 shifters, stick it in the hole, lock that beauty up with grips and shifter

 

[dan86]

shifter- that's an adjustable man!

 

[Knobhead]

I have always taped the compression springs and braid too, never really feels much more than a scraping join without it. Ditto also with wrapping the joins of the cast shell in tape. Some brands are really good pliable plastic that works well, others are horrible brittle stuff that will leak from everywhere without mummification in tape.

Does heating the compound really work ? usually gets pretty hot on it's own when mixed.

My tip would be to cut the phases at different lengths along the joint as it can be easier to get the crimpers in, with a bit of planning.

Always stager the connections even thought the manufacturers don’t always say this. I solder the connections, it’s a hang over from a Raychem joint failing many years ago. Not one of mine I hasten to add but I had to splice the new section in.

Scotchcast joints used to come with a roll of nylon perforated tape, great for ensuring good separation. Not seen that for many years.

I prefer armour terminations that use half shell supports and Jubilee clips. If forced to use constant pressure springs, always tape over them. But only on the spring, if the compound can flow between the armours then they key better.

Always abrade the outer sheath to key it to the compound.

BTW Biff
Try doing a live breach joint, using weak backs and solder. It makes you concentrate! Especially when you’re mate can’t bail the water out fast enough!

No I don’t miss wallowing around in the mud cable jointing.

 

[Knobhead]

No I don’t miss wallowing around in the mud cable jointing.

Correction.

A nice summers day on the side of a Derbyshire valley. You’re mates put the compound buckets on one side and is frying eggs, bacon, sausage, and wild mushrooms. I could put up with that.

Funny how the foreman would show up then ? ? ? ?

 

[johnboy6083]

Glanding is just something that requires practice. I use either method of glanding to a threaded entry, or putting the gland on first, depending on application. I've used the threaded entry method upto 150mm2 3c on large pumps. It helps if you've got a strong assistant.
I use eagles beaks on larger glands, shifters/adjustables upto M25.
i only use a Stanley & hacksaw. I use a blunt chisel or ruler to bend out the armour on large glands to get the cone in. We only use E1W glands on our contracts.
for the lugs it's either heat shrink or self amalgamating tape. Keep the cores long until you've bent them into position. It helps massively.

 

[Knobhead]

I’m with John for the termination. Hacksaw and Stanley knife. Bigger cables, I’ve got 18” adjustables and gland pliers with a set of 24” Stillson’s as back up.

One thing that gets by back up is when some imbecile has used a hammer and chisel on the gland nut to tighten it. No need for it.

 

[Guest55]

i take it you had a live network licence then tony.

did highways jointing ( non live ) for many years , it was back breaking even in your 20's & 30's.
good skill to learn but dont miss it one bit.

 

[Knobhead]

Private network Biff. Got asked a few times "Eeerr, it's up to you but we really don't want to loose the feed to......."

I did live jointing with EMEB, I wasn't on that course but it was in the same building as the MV course I was supposed to be on.