mortgage retention advice for current installation upgrade

[walkthenrun]

Hi guys,
i need to carry some work out to get my house to pass its mortgage retention, i had a mate from napit come round and do a electrical installation inspection condition report, as one of the retention on my mortgage is due to the old electrical installation. at the moment there is a 15 way merlin gerin consumer unit. I have identified all the circuit apart from one 15A breaker. anyway i was hoping to change the current unit to rcbo's i think this is probably the best thing at the moment considering the size of the house so if anything does go rong i can localise the problem more easily. guys i have come for advice as i dont know which unit to buy? am i doing the right thing by going for rcbo's. i need something that will allow me have at least 13 different circuits. the only thing i have found upto now is a Wylex 11 way Consumer Unit Type NH1104 that i could put 11 circuits on. The immediate advice my friend give me was to condition report was to update the consumer unit so that the shower is rcd protected, the lights in the bathroom are ip65. the supply to the summer house and the pond shed is in swa cable. is it possible to just take the current consumer unit and swap it directly for an 11 way rcbo consumer unit. would everything carry on working as it is working perfectly now.
i have identified each circuit as follows
1. annexe consumer unit and outdoor floodlight consumer unit (60A) (10mm cable and 2.5mm)
2. cooker (50A) (6mm)
3. upstairs sockets (32A) with two fuse spurs in garage from ring final in above main bedroom (2.5mm)
4. downstairs sockets (32A) (2.5mm)
5. 15A?
6. 5A lights in boiler room (G), garage(G), utility(G),main bathroom(U), small blue room(U), hallway(U), pink room(U) and kids room(U) G-ground U-upstairs (1.5)
7. shower (50A) (6mm 8.5kw shower clipped direct to wall)
8. main bedroom (U) and ensuite lights (U) (5A) (1.5mm)
9. kitchen(G) dining room(G) sitting room (G) and toy room lights (G) (5A) (1.5mm)
10. boiler (5A) (1mm)
11. Pond shed hager consumer unit (60A) (10mm)
12. summer house volex consumer unit (60A) (10mm)

some pictures are included thanks
main consumer unit

main c.u and outdoor lighting c.u

pond c.u

summer house c.u

annexe c.u

thanks in advance for your immediate advice if any more pictures are required please let me know thanks

 

[walkthenrun]

I think im getting confued here.
They may have done 60A in the past but the shower MCB is a 50A type B, hence the B50 under the type C60HB.

could you please clarify the significance of the c60hb as none of the other breakers display that its only the shower breaker that says that, is it just a breaker that allows a surge of current when it starts like the current type c thanks

 

[Essexboy7]

What is mortgage retention?I have never heard of it before

 

[walkthenrun]

You shouldnt have to. As per Eng54 post 21.

so what am i exactly asking for when my mate comes so i can get this retention removed? just a certificate to sign the current installation off as safe to operate with recommendations for possible improvements (im guessing if it stipulates the recommendations the mortgage company may ask for that work to be carried out before the mortgage retention is removed

 

[Engineer54]

I think im getting confued here.
They may have done 60A in the past but the shower MCB is a 50A type B, hence the B50 under the type C60HB.

You are!! lol!! The MCB type is just that a type, all are agreed now that it's a 50A type B breaker!! All the other breakers in this CU are C45's which are the older type 2 breakers...

 

[MDJ]

I like the Merlin boards, a spark installed that, he even changed the hager breakers to MEM in the 4 way board haha, he must have had it on the van, that merlin board will outlast you, it will last forever, that is an old one though, they have had plastic isolation clips above the MCBs for some years now, I remember that type of board, seen many of them before on council jobs in schools etc.

 

[Spoon]

could you please clarify the significance of the c60hb as none of the other breakers display that its only the shower breaker that says that, is it just a breaker that allows a surge of current when it starts like the current type c thanks

The C60HB is the name of the range of MCB's. The B50 under it states that it is a 50A Type B.

 

[walkthenrun]

What is mortgage retention?I have never heard of it before

it means you ask the bank for 100k and they say there is alot wrong with house i.e. damp up wall, old electrics old boiler, leaking roof, so they say we will lend you 100k but we holding 20k back cos that is how much money it will take to repair the house to get it into a state to sell it, and( so give you 80k) also go get 20k of someone else and also then spend 20k on the house to get them things fixed we told you were wrong and then we will give you the extra 20k and in the meantime we will charge you interest on the full 100k

- - - Updated - - -

The C60HB is the name of the range of MCB's. The B50 under it states that it is a 50A Type B.

ok so that the name of the range thanks

 

[walkthenrun]

Do you have any test equipment. You could be asking for lots of trouble if you haven't.

yes i have access to a fluke 1653b calibrated

 

[Spoon]

it means you ask the bank for 100k and they say there is alot wrong with house i.e. damp up wall, old electrics old boiler, leaking roof, so they say we will lend you 100k but we holding 20k back cos that is how much money it will take to repair the house to get it into a state to sell it, and( so give you 80k) also go get 20k of someone else and also then spend 20k on the house to get them things fixed we told you were wrong and then we will give you the extra 20k and in the meantime we will charge you interest on the full 100k

Dont you just love banks...

 

[Rampantchilli]

could you give me an example of a code 1 or code 2 would that be something like does not conform to IP2X where there is risk of fatality

If your 'mate' has done you a condition report he should of listed all the defects and codedthem as c1,c2,c3 or further investigation required. Any c1 or c2 would require work to give you a satisfactory certificate, c3 or FI can be left as is and your installation would comply.

with regards to your breakers, why not just swap those cb's for rcbo's and save yourself a fortune, MG still manufacture those and are readily available. Although I'd suggest you get advice on which size breakers you can use, as 6mm t&e clipped direct cannot be placed on a 50a cb/Rcbo let alone 60a

 

[walkthenrun]

If your 'mate' has done you a condition report he should of listed all the defects and codedthem as c1,c2,c3 or further investigation required. Any c1 or c2 would require work to give you a satisfactory certificate, c3 or FI can be left as is and your installation would comply.

with regards to your breakers, why not just swap those cb's for rcbo's and save yourself a fortune, MG still manufacture those and are readily available. Although I'd suggest you get advice on which size breakers you can use, as 6mm t&e clipped direct cannot be placed on a 50a cb/Rcbo let alone 60a

he has been yesterday and will be back on thursday to complete any paperwork he asked me to do the things like put shower on rcd and lights in bathroom and put a 10mm cable in for the shower while i was carrying out any upgrades and then would complete the condition report.

need to check the o.s.g for the correct reference method and then work out volt drop and make sure the In Ib and design current are correct and suitable for the shower installed it is clipped to the wall and goes straight into the loft accross a beam and down into a double pole switch maximum is 7m

do you think i should put both the socket ring finals on rcbos too? and the bathroom lighting c.b. too (or can i leave that as i was planning on fitting selv lighting in there anyway, guys can anyone help me what are the best fans for bathrooms where the shower is obviously causing alot of damp within the bathroom here have a look i was thinking maybe an inline fan but alot of people say they are rubbish

 

[Engineer54]

with regards to your breakers, why not just swap those cb's for rcbo's and save yourself a fortune, MG still manufacture those and are readily available. Although I'd suggest you get advice on which size breakers you can use, as 6mm t&e clipped direct cannot be placed on a 50a cb/Rcbo let alone 60a

Think you'll find that MG RCBO's are on the expensive side. ..lol!! Those 60A breakers are sitting on 10mm cables if i'm not mistaken!!

 

[walkthenrun]

Think you'll find that MG RCBO's are on the expensive side. ..lol!! Those 60A breakers are sitting on 10mm cables if i'm not mistaken!!

im looking the biggest ones i can find are 50A RCBO MG, can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u

 

[Spoon]

Have to put what power rating your shower is, in past posts & ive just missed it?? im having an off day...

 

[walkthenrun]

im looking the biggest ones i can find are 50A RCBO MG, can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u

guys i have just spoke to my local supplier nbelectrical who have informed me that the highest rcbo that they supply is 45A wylex they dont have any 50A RCBOs so it doesnt look like there would be any other options, as no 1 c.b is 60A supplying a two bedroom house basically i would want that replacement minimum again, considering it has an electric hob with another 6mm cable. the main house electric hob on the cooker 6.0mm has been connected to a fuse spur for the ignition an the gas hob but cable been left in all the way to the d.p switch