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FatAlan

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Appart from the building regs specification on the size and positioning of notches and holes in joists is there a best practice on what to use? Is it just the case that notches are used in place of holes due to the cable positioning being outside that prescribed for holes. Are there any issues with not clipping cables under floor boards? I say this as when for instance you install down lights it seems prudent to have a fair bit of slack left for future work / fittings etc.
 
I know what is standard,and what's been done,is done,but nothing degrades a joists integrity,like a notch.
You can rectify 20 rogue holes,with some glue and a piece of hardwood dowel.

If you are lifting boards,i would recommend drilling,every time.

You can fish,and drill from different directions,to save lifting every board,which you will have to do,to notch.

I have a black and white information film,from the 50's,where they are "electrifying lighting" of some of the old terraced properties,in Trafford Park,after the war.

The sparks all have roofer's hatchets,to open ceilings,and notch the bejesus out of all the virgin 8 be 4's downstairs :rolleyes:
 
He must be on that polish 95% gear he posted a link to if he thinks notching is quicker than drilling :confused:...:D Did I read a post that you have the Milwaukee hole hawg?
best purchase of 2017 Lee hands down! flys through old and new joists no pressure- i heard good things about the Milwaukee self drive bits- but they get filled up of wood chippings after 2 or 3 joist and you have to clear it out- but with a flat blue bosch bit...laughing!
 
I did have a plumber (old school) show me how he got 15mm copper,across joists,through drilled holes. He did have to drill two supplementary holes,and stick a hardwood fid,in each end...but he used the method regularly...worked it out? ;)

He reckoned since slip conduit wasn't needed,with t&e,sparks had it easy :)
 

Hello DPG,

As I am sure that You / We all know - when these plates are used you have to notch the size and thickness of the plate out of the joist to fit them flat with the top of the joist.

Otherwise they would hold the Floorboards up from the joist and this would cause creaking floorboards as they loosen the nails / screws after a period of time being walked over.

Because the plates are thick enough to resist penetration by a nail they are thick enough to cause a problem with laying the Floorboards unless they are notched into the joists.

Even with some new builds where Flooring Grade Chipboard seems to be the favourite specification for Flooring these plates could still cause a problem.

They are not fitted as the picture shows on the webpage - which is just `nailed` in position on the top of the joist.

I mention this for possible future readers of this thread who are not Electricians, Heating / Gas Engineers or Plumbers.

Regards,

Chris
 
Last edited:
On new builds, I am surprised that there is no requirement to clearly mark the floor boards to show cable and pipe runs...

In the past,I've seen it done for short sections of such runs through door ways ect, but I think that was down to the owner rather than the contractors/builders..
In the past when new houses had traditional joists rather than the TJI joists of today the plumber's pipes were notched into the top of the joists chippy then put chipboard floor sheets down and always from my experience they marked the floor where the pipes were saved them nailing them and us drilling them from above. I used to mark the floor each side of a stud and walls where the cables ran as so chippy did not nail when putting on skirting.
 

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