Possible dodgy oven wiring discovered

[Strima]

Looking at the manufacturers instructions the oven should be on it's own dedicated circuit.

The previous owners had a gas oven.

TBH this would be your best option as you already have gas for the hob.

 

[James2019]

This is a picture of the cables entering the CU. The right hand side is where the kitchen breaker is.

I will see if I can turn off the power and remove the cover later, to provide a better view. I’m worried I’ll mess something up.

The builder has responded to ask if they (I believe him and spark) can come tomorrow at 9am to “sort out the problem”. As last night I had said I would like him to arrange for him and spark to attend, resolve the issue and spark to provide a written report explaining how the 16A oven is now wired correctly. I am not sure what they currently have in mind.

 

[James2019]

Here is a photo of the wiring inside the unit. You can see the first post photo for the labels but the far right breaker is the kitchen sockets one.

 

[littlespark]

Just clarify that when the kitchen ring is turned off, the socket that the oven is plugged into goes off. (Ignitor for hob won’t fire)

All you need to say is the oven is too high a rating to be simply plugged into a 13A socket.
The builder and spark can then argue amongst themselves whose fault it is.

Dont take anything else apart, there’s no need to.
Bottom line, they designed it, they supplied the oven. The circuit for the oven should be there.

 

[Strima]

When the spark turns up tell him to leave the half starve rat in his van that he used to trim the cables with.

 

[James2019]

Just clarify that when the kitchen ring is turned off, the socket that the oven is plugged into goes off. (Ignitor for hob won’t fire)

All you need to say is the oven is too high a rating to be simply plugged into a 13A socket.
The builder and spark can then argue amongst themselves whose fault it is.

Dont take anything else apart, there’s no need to.
Bottom line, they designed it, they supplied the oven. The circuit for the oven should be there.

Yes that’s right, when the kitchen ring is turned off all the sockets in the kitchen go off. Including the neon for the cooker switch and the electric ignition for the hob won’t work. If the kitchen ring is on, the neon for the cooker switch illuminates.

I will see what they can suggest for me.

 

[westward10]

If a so called electrician connected that consumer unit I fear the quality of the rest of the installation. I would be wary of them doing anymore works in your property.

 

[Strima]

It is a recommendation in BS7671 (appendix 15 note (iii)) cookers and hobs with a rating exceeding 2kW be connected on their own dedicated radial circuit.

 

[telectrix]

Here is a photo of the wiring inside the unit. You can see the first post photo for the labels but the far right breaker is the kitchen sockets one.

can't believe an "electrician" fitted that abortion. more like a builder using a spade to dress the cables.

it shouldlook more like this:

 

[loz2754]

Not the neatest consumer unit install I've ever seen.
As an aside, I can't see any main bonding cables. Could be that they aren't needed, or connected to a main earthing terminal elsewhere...

 

[Midwest]

Might be my eyes deceiving me, but the wires for circuit 4 (central heating) seem slightly larger gauge, than the wires for the RFC‘s.

Where is the FCU for the CH located OP?

 

[brianmoooore]

Might be my eyes deceiving me, but the wires for circuit 4 (central heating) seem slightly larger gauge, than the wires for the RFC‘s

I thought that as well. Doncaster cable for that circuit only?
Also wondering why the heating needs a 16A MCB all of its own. All the CH systems I've ever wired have been through a 3A fuse, except for a few larger systems where the fuse was 5A.
I also subscribe to the theory that a smoke detector feed should be incorporated into a circuit whose failure would be obvious, such as the downstairs or upstairs lights, although I know there are those on here who disagree.

 

[James2019]

Might be my eyes deceiving me, but the wires for circuit 4 (central heating) seem slightly larger gauge, than the wires for the RFC‘s.

Where is the FCU for the CH located OP?

Hi there, if I I understand the question correctly the boiler is located upstairs in the wiring cupboard on the landing. The fused spur for it is located there.

 

[James2019]

I thought that as well. Doncaster cable for that circuit only?
Also wondering why the heating needs a 16A MCB all of its own. All the CH systems I've ever wired have been through a 3A fuse, except for a few larger systems where the fuse was 5A.
I also subscribe to the theory that a smoke detector feed should be incorporated into a circuit whose failure would be obvious, such as the downstairs or upstairs lights, although I know there are those on here who disagree.

Boiler is a new mid-range combi boiler, separate circuit wasn’t any special request from me! No water tank or immersion heater.

 

[James2019]

Development is they will come tomorrow to discuss and take a look. Builder speaking with the spark in the morning.

He said he was thinking they will just wire the oven to the cooker switch, however I have said you can’t put a 16A appliance on an RFC... thanks to your advice on here! Then he talked about it being straightforward to convert an RFC to a radial. However I said if 2.5mm cable has been used (unconfirmed) then you can’t use a 32A breaker and suggested it will be a problem as 4mm will be needed. Otherwise the cables could overheat and not be protected by the breaker. So he said he will check with the spark in the morning and let me know the plan.

I’ll see what options he’s willing to offer me... at this rate I’m still strongly leaning if you just getting a 13A oven below 3kW to save me any more stress over this.