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Replacement Single Electric Oven

K

kas

Ok guys advice needed.

I am swapping over a single electric built-in oven with a similar item, they both require hard-wiring, and are of similar power rating (2145w - 2335w).
The current oven is hard wired with the following grey cable

BASEC 300 / 500 V H 6242Y 6.0

Am I ok to use this cable (which is still in good condition) to hard-wire the new oven.
If so it should be a simple job, what is the max power this cable would be ok for.
Ps -There is a seperate oven isolation switch above the worktop to the left, and its own 32A fuse in the consumer unit.


 
absolutely no problem. 6.0mm cable is well enough for that load. it's just a like for like replacement. your full load current is 10A . it could even be wired on a standard 13A plug
 
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Sounds OK.

At 2335W, the cable will be handling around 10.15A - 6mm CSA T&E can take that easily, and the breaker is rated fine for the cable too.
 
The new unit will probably have a 13 amp plug top on it remember if you cut it off bang goes the warranty I for one fit a single socket behind the oven spured off the cooker circuit supplying the hob. Then it is easy peasy to replace the oven or take it out for repair
 
Ok, sorry probably didn't make myself clear - the old 'dead' oven is rated at 2145-2335w (thats what it says on the oven sticker).

I am assuming the new model will be similar although I do not have the exact power rating for this until it arrives, the only info I have is that it's energy consumption is 0.814 kwh. Does this help, If not what is the max power that cable and set-up mentioned above will take so I can check when it arrives.
thanks again
 
Oldtimer, ok thanks but I specifically selected the new oven as it needs 'hard-wiring' so should just be a swap like for like, just need to stay within the restraints of the current cabling.
 
kas you will find that theses 2kw ovens have a 13 amp plug on them the reason why I fit a 13 amp single socket spurred off the cooker outlet is that the customer wants to throw the cooker switch to switch off both hob and oven but I have seen the oven wired straight into the cooker outlet or into the hob connections either way this has now removed the 13 amp fuse that was in the plug top protecting the oven instead there is a 32 or 40 amp CB protecting it also if done this way the oven is a bitch to replace or repair as the lead is not long enough to pull the whole unit out. hence the 13 amp socket where a "non skilled" individual can remove and replace the oven
 
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KwH is an energy rating - that tells you how much energy the unit uses, not how much current the appliance draws. There's no direct conversion of one to the other.
 
Ok, problem I now have is that the manufacturer and supplier 'Dixons Uk' have both told me that the new oven will require hard-wiring which was the reason I bought this one as adirect replacement.
If it turns up on the 23rd December (!!!!!!!!!!!!) with a plug on I will not be happy to say the least, as i do not have a socket behind to plug it into.
 
Ok, problem I now have is that the manufacturer and supplier 'Dixons Uk' have both told me that the new oven will require hard-wiring which was the reason I bought this one as adirect replacement.
If it turns up on the 23rd December (!!!!!!!!!!!!) with a plug on I will not be happy to say the least, as i do not have a socket behind to plug it into.

Have you got a brand and model no for it?
 
Buy a single socket and surface box from Screwfix for £4-£5 and keep as comes in handy because you do not want to be running down to B&Q on the day to find they do not have any
 
I'd love to know where the 'voids the warranty' comes from if you cut the plug off.

Had the same recently, so got on the phone to the manufacturer and asked them. No problem they said.

Did some electric rads, all came with plugs on and was hard wiring them. Again phoned the manufacturer and again no probs
 

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