Replacement Single Electric Oven

[kas]

Ok guys advice needed.

I am swapping over a single electric built-in oven with a similar item, they both require hard-wiring, and are of similar power rating (2145w - 2335w).
The current oven is hard wired with the following grey cable

BASEC 300 / 500 V H 6242Y 6.0

Am I ok to use this cable (which is still in good condition) to hard-wire the new oven.
If so it should be a simple job, what is the max power this cable would be ok for.
Ps -There is a seperate oven isolation switch above the worktop to the left, and its own 32A fuse in the consumer unit.

 

[kas]

Ok, thanks I couldn't find much either. I did find reference of the same oven on sale in Eire and that stated that it required 'hard-wiring' and Dixons stated yesterday on the phone to my wife the same, so hopefully it will arrive requiring hard-wiring (fingers crossed).

If it does turn up with a flex and plug what are your suggestions, will I need to get an electrician in to convert the current 'wired in' set up and get him to fit a suitable socket.
This will then be getting into the part p rules will it not. Was hoping to just swap over!

 

[oldtimer]

I'd love to know where the 'voids the warranty' comes from if you cut the plug off.

Had the same recently, so got on the phone to the manufacturer and asked them. No problem they said.

Did some electric rads, all came with plugs on and was hard wiring them. Again phoned the manufacturer and again no probs

Dave its just not the warranty that is affected if you cut the plug top off the manufacturer has fitted a 13 amp plug for the reason of electrical protection if you connect it straight into a 20 or a 32 or a 40 amp breaker then you are the one that will be held for negligence in other words if you replaced a 6 amp light circuit breaker with a 15 amp then yes it will work if the house burns down then the "No blame No Claim" mob would have a field day with you

 

[accordfire]

Ok, thanks I couldn't find much either. I did find reference of the same oven on sale in Eire and that stated that it required 'hard-wiring' and Dixons stated yesterday on the phone to my wife the same, so hopefully it will arrive requiring hard-wiring (fingers crossed).

If it does turn up with a flex and plug what are your suggestions, will I need to get an electrician in to convert the current 'wired in' set up and get him to fit a suitable socket.
This will then be getting into the part p rules will it not. Was hoping to just swap over!

I haven't come across many built in ovens with a plug top on them to be honest, so fairly sure you'll be ok. Worst case, stick a junction box on the end of the cable you currently have, and run out on a short bit of 2.5mm twin and earth into a single socket outlet.

 

[kas]

thanks to all for your all your replies !

 

[oldtimer]

IET Forums - Electrician to be prosecuted

I rest my case

 

[kas]

IET Forums - Electrician to be prosecuted

I rest my case

Sorry, what is the point you are making!
I do not see a problem with replacing like for like appliance, if I have a problem and any changes to the existing wiring are required then I will get it done professionally.
I am capable of 'swapping' the ovens as long as the wiring requirements are the same, hence the question on this board. The current 'hard-wired' set up was installed professionally about 4 years ago when the 'dead' oven was first fitted. I do not see a problem as long as the new oven has a similar power rating to the one taken out, unless you can advise me otherwise.

 

[Amp David]

Dave its just not the warranty that is affected if you cut the plug top off the manufacturer has fitted a 13 amp plug for the reason of electrical protection if you connect it straight into a 20 or a 32 or a 40 amp breaker then you are the one that will be held for negligence in other words if you replaced a 6 amp light circuit breaker with a 15 amp then yes it will work if the house burns down then the "No blame No Claim" mob would have a field day with you

See what you're saying, but if an electrician or so called competant person was installing the appliance, they wouldn't just wire it to a circuit supplied by a 20 or whatever amp breaker. Theywould wire from a FCU wouldn't they. Can see why its there so that joe public can get home and plug it in and get cooking

 

[oldtimer]

See what you're saying, but if an electrician or so called competant person was installing the appliance, they wouldn't just wire it to a circuit supplied by a 20 or whatever amp breaker. Theywould wire from a FCU wouldn't they. Can see why its there so that joe public can get home and plug it in and get cooking

David I hear what you say but I was called to a house and the customer wanted a replacement hob and oven connected when I said I would have to fit a 13 amp single socket for the oven I got the "why dont you connect it straight in like the last fella did" I said this would not be safe as there would be a 32 amp circuit breaker protecting the oven and the reply was "well its worked ok for all of these years" The link that I put in about the electrician who was prosecuted the first thing they highlighted was the panel fuse linked out with a piece of wire and although this did not cause the problem never the less it was lets say a little gem for the inspector to place on his report and probably highlighting the potential fire risk because of it. Dont get me wrong I am not being akward here but because of the nature of my business (Property maintenance and small electrical jobs) I am finding this more often and I actually inform the customer before I set foot in the property and most times this works when I explain yes you have to pay extra for me to fit a single socket outlet for the oven but when if you need to change it in the future then you do not need me plus its safer because if the oven element goes it will take out the 13 amp fuse and not the main breaker hence you lose the oven but can still work the hob.

 

[kas]

So, what is the general concensus to my problem then?

Am I safely able to replace my current 'hard-wired' single electric built-in oven, with a new one of similar power by just removing cable from old and fitting to new. As previously mentioned this set up professionally installed during kitchen fitting and the current cable to oven is 300/500v H 6242Y 6.0.

YES or NO ?

Surely by connecting new to this I am no worse off safety wise than before!

If the general opinion is that I should get an electrician in then I will, just seems waste of time to discoonect one cable and reconnect. I could understand the problem if I was putting in something more powerful or double oven etc. but I am just swapping like for like?

 

[telectrix]

answer is yes. but if trhe new oven come with a plug attached, then a single 13A socket should be fitted. if you have a standard connection point behind the oven, this can be replaced with a socket direct on the 6mm cable from the cooker switch

 

[kas]

answer is yes. but if trhe new oven come with a plug attached, then a single 13A socket should be fitted. if you have a standard connection point behind the oven, this can be replaced with a socket direct on the 6mm cable from the cooker switch

Thanks Telectrix, thats what I like to hear good sound, sensible advice. If it came with plug obviously I will rethink, but i am 99% sure it will be a straight swap!

 

[telectrix]

i want an invite for xmas lunch. so will the other guys. it's OK though, we'll all bring some beer. LOL.

 

[kas]

i want an invite for xmas lunch. so will the other guys. it's OK though, we'll all bring some beer. LOL.

It's along way to come from Cheshire for my wifes burnt turkey !

 

[telectrix]

It's along way to come from Cheshire for my wifes burnt turkey !

at least you'll know by the burning smell, she ain't serving up salad

 

[oldtimer]

Thanks Telectrix, thats what I like to hear good sound, sensible advice. If it came with plug obviously I will rethink, but i am 99% sure it will be a straight swap!

Well Kas did it have a plug top on it