Replacing a 13A plug fuse with solid brass

[John-SJW]

I read once, never seen one for sale, that there is a solid brass replacement for the standard 13A fuse in a 13A plug. This is to eliminate the fusing in the plug, which is handy when having a heavy appliance plugged in behind itself, like under worktops which are isolated and fused by an FCU.

Anyone know where they are available, if they are?

On a dedicated radial with its own MCB and say a 20A isolator switch a washing machine can have a 15A fuseless round pin socket and plug. That is fine, but many manufacturers say that if you remove the 13A moulded plug the guarantee is void. This would never hold up court if an appliance is connected to regulation being sound and safe, but it is avoiding the hassle factor from these irresponsible makers.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Why not disconnect the flex with moulded plug from the appliance, fit a new flex and connect into a flex outlet fed from your fused spur and then if there's ever a problem with the appliance, put the original flex back on!

Fuse behind appliance "problem" - Avoided!
Manufacturers warranty problem - Avoided!

 

[Darkwood]

The whole thread seems to be a bit of a baiting attempt here, @John-SJW, exactly what is your electrical knowledge, qualifications etc as your profile is missing such info.
Plug fuses are rarely in place for overload but are covering short circuit compliance to the flexes often used, the idea of replacing a fuse with solid metal jumpers shows a complete lack of understanding on the matter.
We can discuss this in thread or PM me if you want, I await your response.

 

[freddo]

He's obviously a pro.

But what do I do with all these?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Recording studios sometimes run gear from CT-E supplies to minimise hum pickup. Muscle-in on Walsall's act and sell them some DP-fused plugs.

 

[7029 dave]

90 odd posts on nonsense YAWN

 

[pirate]

If you can't find solid copper links, why not cut down a section of busbar??

Oh, wait...

 

[UNG]

I say some manufacturers try to side step warrantee claims by nick picking, and one is that the moulded plug may be not removed. It may be replaced by a sound and safe plug to regs, but they try and fob you off. It may be that the appliance is hard wired in, they will still try and fob you off so they will not pay.

Had a conversation with an appliance engineer a good few years ago on this subject and his response was there is no problem cutting a moulded plug off and replacing it with a plug there is also no problem hard wiring into a flex outlet plate but if a warranty repair is needed then it will have to be disconnected and a plug fitted before the engineer arrives as the only safe isolation procedure they are taught is to remove the plug from the socket outlet

 

[littlespark]

Been waiting a few days, thought we might have got the century, but here’s my thoughts.

Leave the moulded plug on the appliance, 13A fuse.
Switch fuse above counter with less than 13A fuse… 10 or 5 even.

With a bit of luck, the lesser fuse blows first.

Otherwise…. A bit of planning beforehand negates this completely. Socket for appliance in accessible space in adjacent cabinet.

 

[John-SJW]

Been waiting a few days, thought we might have got the century, but here’s my thoughts.

Leave the moulded plug on the appliance, 13A fuse.
Switch fuse above counter with less than 13A fuse… 10 or 5 even.

With a bit of luck, the lesser fuse blows first.

Otherwise…. A bit of planning beforehand negates this completely. Socket for appliance in accessible space in adjacent cabinet.

In a hidden position, a 15A round pin fuseless plug and socket can be fitted on the appliance, with an FCU above. Then only one fuse to blow.

 

[DPG]

In a hidden position, a 15A round pin fuseless plug and socket can be fitted on the appliance, with an an FCU above. Then only one fuse to blow.

I really don't see why you keep pushing this. How many times do your kitchen appliances blow fuses for no reason. If they do it often then I suggest there is something wrong. And if there's something wrong then the appliance is coming out anyway.

And what about using a 20A switch instead of FCU?

Putting a 15A plug on appliances is not a good solution to your 'problem'.

 

[littlespark]

In a hidden position, a 15A round pin fuseless plug and socket can be fitted on the appliance, with an an FCU above. Then only one fuse to blow.

My suggestion does away with the question of whether to cut off a moulded plug or not.

In reality, no socket behind a kitchen appliance should be made inaccessible.
Couple of screws at most, and even the heaviest of equipment can be moved.

The original question of replacing the plug top fuse with a solid link is of course “no”

 

[John-SJW]

My suggestion does away with the question of whether to cut off a moulded plug or not.

In reality, no socket behind a kitchen appliance should be made inaccessible.
Couple of screws at most, and even the heaviest of equipment can be moved.

The original question of replacing the plug top fuse with a solid link is of course “no”

Yes, to keep the moulded plug. But a solid link in a moulded plug only gives one fuse on an accessible FCU.
No, the solid links are not available any longer?

If the manufacturer is OK with cutting off the moulded plug, then a 15A round pin is the way to go.

 

[goasis]

No, the solid links are not available any longer?

100 posts later..... is there an echo in here?!!

 

[John-SJW]

I really don't see why you keep pushing this. How many times do your kitchen appliances blow fuses for no reason. If they do it often then I suggest there is something wrong. And if there's something wrong then the appliance is coming out anyway.

And what about using a 20A switch instead of FCU?

Putting a 15A plug on appliances is not a good solution to your 'problem'.

If the manufacturer is fine on cutting off the moulded plug, then a 15A round in an inaccessible location is the way to go, as long as there is an accessible FCU.

Many servicemen are told by the manufacturers that the appliance must be 100% isolated to work on it - that is remove a plug - not trusting that FCU are DP isolation. Hard wire in a fridge and many will not unscrew the appliance cable from the cable outlet then walk away. So a 15A plug is the way.

Also out of the way plugs with fuses can have the plug run hot unbeknown to the user. The heat is invariably around the fuse. A 15A plug with no fuse is safer.

 

[John-SJW]

100 posts later..... is there an echo in here?!!

Do you know if they are still available or guessing?