Rewired bungalow, before i plaster have i missed anything?!

[acat]

Agree with just about everything you say Jason but looking at part B in the building regs book page 123 after the lighting circuit bit it says " there should be a means of isolating the supply to the alarms without switching off the lighting"

Im confused now (thats not difficult)


Chris

 

[MarcT]

You might need to employ an RCBO for the alarm circuit if you cant satisfy 522.6.5 (>50mm) any other way. I've not seen a regulation that precludes this on battery backed detectors.

 

[Davey101]

I'm confused too.....
I thought there was a reg (dont have time to look for it now), that states that safety circuits shall be on their own supply?
On my 17th editon course we were specifically told that smoke detectors should not be RCD protected (unless its a TT system). This means not putting them on a lighting circuit.
TBH, I havent installed a 17th edition board yet, as all my work for the last couple of years has been industrial(ish), so I'm not in the loop as to practical applications.

You might need to employ an RCBO for the alarm circuit if you cant satisfy 522.6.5 (>50mm) any other way. I've not seen a regulation that precludes this on battery backed detectors.

Smoke detector wiring is unlikely to be in the wall, so this shouldnt be relevant

 

[Spudnik]

Agree with just about everything you say Jason but looking at part B in the building regs book page 123 after the lighting circuit bit it says " there should be a means of isolating the supply to the alarms without switching off the lighting"

Im confused now (thats not difficult)


Chris

Slide them off the base, or unplug them.

No need to turn off the lighting circuit to do that.

What you must also remember is that some of these regs are steered a little more towards dedicated fire alarm panels and systems installed in blocks of flats and public buildings.

Smoke detector wiring is unlikely to be in the wall, so this shouldnt be relevant

The interlinks could be.

 

[Davey101]

The interlinks could be.

Bit of FP it is then!

Also, is there an actual Reg stating that the fans HAVE to be fed via an isolator. I thought the reg read said something about all current using equipment must have a means of isolation, or something similar. However, I had a conversation with a chap who does nothing but test, and seems pretty clued up, who was pretty emphatic that you do NOT need an isolator for fans etc, I wasnt in the mood to argue, so just left it (still always fit isolators though).

Back to the OP's original question- I'm presuming that this is your bungalow, rather than a 'cash job'
I'd be inclined to wire 2 lighting circuits (and you may fail regs if you dont), I'd also try to wire the lights in the loft on their own circuit, otherswise if you have to alter the wiring (replacing trannies etc), you will be doing it in the dark! (I try to wire the loft lights on the downstairs circuit, but obviously you cant do that).

Have you wired enough T.V points? Especially think about future Sky/Virgin boxes. Make sure you use the correct cable, and the right amount (pf/ct100 is needed for Virgin, not sure about Sky, Sky+needs two cables)
Telephone points? Although you probably get away with one these days with wireless phones.
Cat 5e for a home network? More and more devices have some sort of connection to the internet (T.V.s, Blurays,amplifiers/media streamers etc etc), and this will only increase. Although you will be able to use your p.c or laptop anywhere with a wireless router, these other devices, at present, are mostly not wireless.
Intruder alarm? Again, you can get wireless, but wired is better.
Might just be me, but I'd be inclined to pull extra cables to my light switches, just in case you fancy changing things in the future
Again, probably just me, but I wired a contactor, switched from a light switch in my lounge, to turn my TV etc off when I leave the room. Saves electricity, and the planet, saves having to hunt for remotes as well.

 

[bez101]

It is my own house, no Cash job or anything (im industrial so keep away from most guvvies).

i have wired a tv point into the living room and one to the bedroom, this should be sufficient my needs.
Also ran a phone cable to 2 points and a satelite coax ready for the sky dish to join onto.


You points about an intruder alarm being wired have been taken... i like your contactor idea haha, very good, i am toying with something like that now...

cheers for all the advice!!

 

[ian.settle1]

Bit of FP it is then!

Also, is there an actual Reg stating that the fans HAVE to be fed via an isolator. I thought the reg read said something about all current using equipment must have a means of isolation, or something similar. However, I had a conversation with a chap who does nothing but test, and seems pretty clued up, who was pretty emphatic that you do NOT need an isolator for fans etc, I wasnt in the mood to argue, so just left it (still always fit isolators though).

Back to the OP's original question- I'm presuming that this is your bungalow, rather than a 'cash job'
I'd be inclined to wire 2 lighting circuits (and you may fail regs if you dont), I'd also try to wire the lights in the loft on their own circuit, otherswise if you have to alter the wiring (replacing trannies etc), you will be doing it in the dark! (I try to wire the loft lights on the downstairs circuit, but obviously you cant do that).

Have you wired enough T.V points? Especially think about future Sky/Virgin boxes. Make sure you use the correct cable, and the right amount (pf/ct100 is needed for Virgin, not sure about Sky, Sky+needs two cables)
Telephone points? Although you probably get away with one these days with wireless phones.
Cat 5e for a home network? More and more devices have some sort of connection to the internet (T.V.s, Blurays,amplifiers/media streamers etc etc), and this will only increase. Although you will be able to use your p.c or laptop anywhere with a wireless router, these other devices, at present, are mostly not wireless.
Intruder alarm? Again, you can get wireless, but wired is better.
Might just be me, but I'd be inclined to pull extra cables to my light switches, just in case you fancy changing things in the future
Again, probably just me, but I wired a contactor, switched from a light switch in my lounge, to turn my TV etc off when I leave the room. Saves electricity, and the planet, saves having to hunt for remotes as well.[/QUOTE]

Whats wrong with switching them off at the set by using the remote it is not fully switching off the tv etc only putting it on stand-by.

 

[Sintra]

Extractor fans must be provided with an easily accessible means of switching off the supply. 132.15.2

Electrical equipment that may cause injury during mechanical maintenance ie fans, must be provided with a means to switch off the supply. 537.3.1.1

All items of current using equipment must be provided with a functional switching device. 537.5.1.3

 

[IP4X]

Not too sure if its mentioned but remember to locate your socket outlets and switches between 450mm and 1200mm above the floor level. Part M.
??
Also if you have given notice to building controll they will want to inspect first fix before you cover up. They should....but dont always.
I sometimes put a discreet EM light (£14) above the CU if there is only one light circuit as these rcds will trip eveytime a light bulb blows! saves you scratching in the dark.
As for that smoke detetor circuit...just stick it on a spare mcb. Saves all the hassle.
Also make sure the detector in the kitchen is a heat detector for those steak frying moments
cheers

 

[MarcT]

NM emergency, a man after my own heart.

 

[Davey101]

Whats wrong with switching them off at the set by using the remote it is not fully switching off the tv etc only putting it on stand-by.

Easier to use a light switch, when you walk out the door, you just press the light switch(if the lights are on), and the 'appliance switch'. Especially usefull when you come into the room, just press the switch, and your tv comes on (presuming that your tv 'powers on' when you restore the mains), no looking for the remote Also usefull if you have several things you want to switch off.


Thanks Sintra, are all these regs off the top of your head, or do you just really like using your regs book
I thought there was one reg, didnt realise there was 3 to get him with
Good point about the heights of accessories (I'd be inclined to put them where I wanted though), the em fitting sounds a good idea as well.

 

[super_stuey]

Minimum sockets heights are for NEW BUILDINGS/EXTENSIONS ONLY!! Stick em where you want bud

 

[Sav]

On a last job I recently did, I put the smoke alarms and heat detector ( interlinked and battery back ups) on an rcbo and also the hallway lights on their own rcbo. So in the event of an rcd failure on the consumer unit, the hallway lights and alarms would still be ok. With back batteries on the alarms, in the event of the rcbo tripping, they would still function, but the green led light on the bases would not be on.
The cert was issued and accepted.
So do you guys think thats ok, or would you advise differently for me to do in the future.
Thanks again and best regards,
Sav

 

[slocm3105]

Minimum sockets heights are for NEW BUILDINGS/EXTENSIONS ONLY!! Stick em where you want bud

You are correct by what you say here, however, you cannot make them any less accesible than the sockets currently are i.e if you have sockets all over just above the skirting, you cannot mount them on the skirting etc.

 

[Sintra]

On a last job I recently did, I put the smoke alarms and heat detector ( interlinked and battery back ups) on an rcbo and also the hallway lights on their own rcbo. So in the event of an rcd failure on the consumer unit, the hallway lights and alarms would still be ok. With back batteries on the alarms, in the event of the rcbo tripping, they would still function, but the green led light on the bases would not be on.
The cert was issued and accepted.
So do you guys think thats ok, or would you advise differently for me to do in the future.
Thanks again and best regards,
Sav

As posted earlier in thread.

Fire detection circuits must be supplied independently of other circuits and not protected by an Rcd protecting multiple circuits. 560.7.1

The smoke alarms have to be interconnected, have a battery backup, and be permanently supplied from a separate way in the ccu, or supplied from a local lighting circuit that is regularly used. Please note this requirement conflicts with 560.7.1

Except for TT systems, the circuit supplying a smoke alarm should not be protected by an RCD. For TT systems the smoke alarm must be supplied from the fixed equipment section of the ccu, not through a 30mA RCD.