Sealing exposed live wire

[K-Lye]

Hi all.. I'm not an electrician by profession but not above doing any basic work that doesn't need qualification. I've got a scenario currently where I'm installing a new light switch - it's an fully enclosed unit with the terminations on the rear which leave part of the wires exposed where they terminate. Once mounted, this will be within the wall cavity of the stud wall where it's being installed. Not a real problem in itself but I prefer things to be done as best as possible so looking to dab so electrical sealant on the exposed wires (once fully terminated) to ensure they're fully insulated.

So here's the question - I know you can buy specialist electrical sealant but I believe that's industrial grade stuff and a bit overkill for the standard domestic 240V. I spoke with the local electrical specialist down at our B&Q who said normal silicon sealant would do the trick. That seems consistent with advice I've read online but I wanted to post here and get some expert views.

Thanks!

 

[Octopus]

Maybe you should ignore the fact you've got a timeswitch you can't easily fit and ask another question outlining what you are actually trying to do/control.

You never know what may be suggested.

 

[Plonker 3]

Are you being serious?!! :skep:

Pray explain how I've been dismissive of any suggestion anyone has made? All I've been doing is highlighting the challenges of the job! What do you want me to say? :38:

you were told it needs a backbox fitting, your reply.

This is possible of course but then I'm left with a less than attractive switch that sits proud of the wall by some 45mm! And of course, this still leaves me with the issue of having to screw through the metal corner beading.

it was suggested move it around the corner, your reply.

It's 110mm wide and yes I could move it round the corner but that's my last resort.

So ideas were suggested but not what you wanted to be told.

 

[UNG]

Unless things have changed at B&Q a mate's wife a number of years ago was a freelance trainer for them she was asking me for info on various types of electrical jobs so she could train staff I came up with a very brief training presentation for her

Consult a qualified electrician it's safer electrical work is not a DIY thing

This didn't go down very well

She then asked how to put in a 2 way lighting circuit I did put a complex training presentation together including cable calcs etc I was never asked again after that

 

[UNG]

Are you being serious?!! :skep:

Pray explain how I've been dismissive of any suggestion anyone has made? All I've been doing is highlighting the challenges of the job! What do you want me to say? :38:

If this is a challenging job god help you with a bigger job

 

[K-Lye]

Unless things have changed at B&Q a mate's wife a number of years ago was a freelance trainer for them she was asking me for info on various types of electrical jobs so she could train staff I came up with a very brief training presentation for her

Consult a qualified electrician it's safer electrical work is not a DIY thing

This didn't go down very well

She then asked how to put in a 2 way lighting circuit I did put a complex training presentation together including cable calcs etc I was never asked again after that

Good for you, but this thread is not about B&Q. Thanks.

 

[Plonker 3]

Good for you, but this thread is not about B&Q. Thanks.

:rolleyes2:

 

[K-Lye]

Maybe you should ignore the fact you've got a timeswitch you can't easily fit and ask another question outlining what you are actually trying to do/control.

You never know what may be suggested.

I appreciate what you're saying so let me try:

I have a room with the following light switch installed:


I want the light on a timer so I've purchased the following timer switch (I could not find any in a smaller size):


It does not come with a back box (nor was it indicated one would be required) and thanks to the Posters here I now know this is a fundamental requirement.

The location where the light switch is installed is 110mm wide leaving not enough space to sink a back box in without cutting into the metal corner beading. It's possible to move it around the corner but I'd prefer to avoid doing this as the nature of the entry into the room and furniture makes it awkward to reach for.

So given this I'm interested in knowing if there are any other ways of getting a timer on my room light.

 

[Plonker 3]

Put a surface mount patress on the wall? like this one MK Single Moulded Back Box White 30mm, K2140RPWHI

 

[K-Lye]

If this is a challenging job god help you with a bigger job

Now you're just being facetious. There is a well defined difference between "challenges" and "challenging".

 

[K-Lye]

Excuse me if this comes up twice but the other post has gone for moderator approval for some reason...

you were told it needs a backbox fitting, your reply.

"This is possible of course but then I'm left with a less than attractive switch that sits proud of the wall by some 45mm! And of course, this still leaves me with the issue of having to screw through the metal corner beading."

And that is not relevant? How can a viable solution ignore the other risks? no one has said "it's ok to screw or cut through the metal corner beading" which is essentially what is being suggested. Is it wrong to question it?

it was suggested move it around the corner, your reply.

"It's 110mm wide and yes I could move it round the corner but that's my last resort."

So how is that dismissive? In both cases I've accepted they were possible only that they either had other considerations or we're not quite what I was looking to achieve. Is it necessary to shoot me down for asking to explore alternatives?

 

[K-Lye]

Put a surface mount patress on the wall? like this one MK Single Moulded Back Box White 30mm, K2140RPWHI

See my last two or three posts. This will involve screwing through the metal corner beading. Are you saying that is ok? If so, what would stop me cutting out a section and sitting a flush backbox?

 

[Plonker 3]

Without knowing the construction of the wall I really couldn't say. The surface mount box I have suggested is the most suitable method from what I can gather. I cant see a problem drilling the metal corner beading, although this may loosen some of the plaster there and need patching up.

Also what room is this being fitted in?

 

[Plonker 3]

Is it necessary to shoot me down for asking to explore alternatives?

Not really, but anyone with a reasonable amount of building knowledge should be able answer their own questions about the fabrication of the building they are working on. Which would also suggest your competence to do the job should maybe questioned?

 

[UNG]

This forum should have a Room 101 and this thread should be in it

There is no helping some people

 

[K-Lye]

This forum should have a Room 101 and this thread should be in it

There is no helping some people

I don't think it makes a difference to your posting Ung.. trolling is still trolling no matter where the thread is.