Sealing exposed live wire | Page 4 | on ElectriciansForums

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K

K-Lye

Hi all.. I'm not an electrician by profession but not above doing any basic work that doesn't need qualification. I've got a scenario currently where I'm installing a new light switch - it's an fully enclosed unit with the terminations on the rear which leave part of the wires exposed where they terminate. Once mounted, this will be within the wall cavity of the stud wall where it's being installed. Not a real problem in itself but I prefer things to be done as best as possible so looking to dab so electrical sealant on the exposed wires (once fully terminated) to ensure they're fully insulated.

So here's the question - I know you can buy specialist electrical sealant but I believe that's industrial grade stuff and a bit overkill for the standard domestic 240V. I spoke with the local electrical specialist down at our B&Q who said normal silicon sealant would do the trick. That seems consistent with advice I've read online but I wanted to post here and get some expert views.

Thanks!
 
See my last two or three posts. This will involve screwing through the metal corner beading. Are you saying that is ok? If so, what would stop me cutting out a section and sitting a flush backbox?

A surface mounted box will not - repeat not - involve cutting into the corner beading. The surface box will sit on top of the surface of the wall and therefore on top of the corner beading tin this instance. The switch cable will come through into the surface mounted white plastic box that the timer switch fits on/in to.
 
Theres a private registration near me that always makes me smile R6NOB - I do wonder if its the number plate of the OP

Time to quit the thread.

This is the "ELECTRICIANS!" forum -for Electricians and people training to be electricians. If Joe Public doesn't like it they can go elsewhere.
 
A surface mounted box will not - repeat not - involve cutting into the corner beading. The surface box will sit on top of the surface of the wall and therefore on top of the corner beading tin this instance. The switch cable will come through into the surface mounted white plastic box that the timer switch fits on/in to.
Thank you. I'm aware of this. My post was referring to the alternative of installing a flush box.
 
Without knowing the construction of the wall I really couldn't say. The surface mount box I have suggested is the most suitable method from what I can gather. I cant see a problem drilling the metal corner beading, although this may loosen some of the plaster there and need patching up.

Also what room is this being fitted in?
The construction is dot-and-dab plasterboard secured to metal studs and the room is an upstairs bedroom used as an office. Thanks for confirming that screwing through the beading is not an issue - at least I know I have this option now.

Not really, but anyone with a reasonable amount of building knowledge should be able answer their own questions about the fabrication of the building they are working on. Which would also suggest your competence to do the job should maybe questioned?
Bear in mind I don't do this for a profession so I'm not fluent in terminology and equally my descriptions may not be what you're used to from other Professionals. In my game (IT) it would be seriously arrogant to assume from a few lines posted in a forum that someone who wasn't fully articulate on the subject was utterly computer illiterate and shouldn't be left in charge of a computer.
 
Theres a private registration near me that always makes me smile R6NOB - I do wonder if its the number plate of the OP

Time to quit the thread.

This is the "ELECTRICIANS!" forum -for Electricians and people training to be electricians. If Joe Public doesn't like it they can go elsewhere.
Ok. Thanks for making your feelings clear. It's evidently a mistake on my part to think I can get help here. I will leave.
 
Not possible without cutting into the stud work on the left and the corner beading on the right. If i was asked to do this by a customer, I would say 'sorry, no ... not possible'.

Why not just plug in a table/floor light into a plug-in timer in the room. It would avoid all the hassle and have the same effect?
 
Last edited:
you could get a 1g 16mm surface backbox not the solution you wanted but the fixing holes wouldnt be near the beading on the wall then you could drill a 20mm hole in the box put an open 20mm grommet and hopefully have some slack on the cable to pull it into your new enclosure, it wouldnt look too bad the 16mm ones are quite shallow like
 
Theres a private registration near me that always makes me smile R6NOB - I do wonder if its the number plate of the OP

Time to quit the thread.

This is the "ELECTRICIANS!" forum -for Electricians and people training to be electricians. If Joe Public doesn't like it they can go elsewhere.

Incorrect.

This forum is for electricians AND anyone else that cares to join asking for a little advice, as per your signature. :rolleyes:

OP,

Hopefully, you have all the information you need to carry out a safe installation.

Switches must always have a form of enclosure behind them however they are installed.

Good luck.

Closed.
 

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