Sealing exposed live wire

[K-Lye]

Hi all.. I'm not an electrician by profession but not above doing any basic work that doesn't need qualification. I've got a scenario currently where I'm installing a new light switch - it's an fully enclosed unit with the terminations on the rear which leave part of the wires exposed where they terminate. Once mounted, this will be within the wall cavity of the stud wall where it's being installed. Not a real problem in itself but I prefer things to be done as best as possible so looking to dab so electrical sealant on the exposed wires (once fully terminated) to ensure they're fully insulated.

So here's the question - I know you can buy specialist electrical sealant but I believe that's industrial grade stuff and a bit overkill for the standard domestic 240V. I spoke with the local electrical specialist down at our B&Q who said normal silicon sealant would do the trick. That seems consistent with advice I've read online but I wanted to post here and get some expert views.

Thanks!

 

[Darkwood]

ffs be careful if you are going to play with electricity. Get an electrician in to do this for you properly as you have proved you have insufficiant knowlege to complete this work safely.
I only hope it is your own house you are trying to burn down not some unsuspecting customer.

You had a bad day mechelec???? Post like this are open to the public and not what this sites about, there are better ways of expressing your concerns without lowering the tone.

 

[Guest111]

ffs be careful if you are going to play with electricity. Get an electrician in to do this for you properly as you have proved you have insufficiant knowlege to complete this work safely.
I only hope it is your own house you are trying to burn down not some unsuspecting customer.

not being nasty but I agree with you on this one,this shows why we go to college and even then spend lots of time learning our trade,you cant beat proper training and experience.

 

[mechelec]

You had a bad day mechelec???? Post like this are open to the public and not what this sites about, there are better ways of expressing your concerns without lowering the tone.

oops sorry if I offended anyone but i thought the advice was sound albeit slightly flippant

 

[trev]

K-Lye this is going to come across as peeing on your fireworks but that's not my intention here.
Knowing how to select and fit the appropriate box/es is really early apprenticeship stuff, if you don't know how to do this you have to expect comments like some have made.
Sadly, I'm in agreement with them. For peace of mind and not much cost get an electrician to do this for you mate.

 

[Darkwood]

not being nasty but I agree with you on this one,this shows why we go to college and even then spend lots of time learning our trade,you cant beat proper training and experience.

With all due respect wasnt against his line of thought but just a tad harsh in his expression, all the OP is really doing is asking if there is anyway to replace the switch s/he has with said one s/hes chosen and the little dilemma hes come up against - its not rocket science this one and personally can't see this as a 'do not try this yourself' job, s/he just been mis-guided by the over-qualified B & Q self confessed electrical specialist, had i seen this to be beyond the abilities of O/P i wouldn't be advicing but giving constructive direction to getting in someone whos qualified.

 

[Guest111]

Yes Darkwood I see where your coming from so I suppose really you can,t blame someone for trying especially when the likes of B&Q go around saying how easy things are to do,when in reality all they want is to sell their products.Maybe they should be stopped from selling certain items,and imo they should not be giving advice on matters in which they are not qualified,I have some plumbing training and was horrified to hear a so called plumbing expert tell a customer how to connect a gas cooker in my local store,and not once was any mention made of a drop test before and after carrying out the work.

 

[Darkwood]

Its a point raised many times before, how can a DIY store sell gear that may require electrical alterations in a special location like a bathroom and kitchen, there should be restrictions on what white products can be sold to DIYers so as not to fuel regulation contrevension, i wouldn,t expect to walk in to a plumbers and be sold a gas meter so why is it allowed in electrics i.e. you can buy consumer units without any questions????

 

[K-Lye]

Hi Gents.. for what it's worth I appreciate the sentiment. This isn't my first visit to the forum (despite this being my first real post) and I am only too aware of some of the things people do without getting professional advice. Like I said though that's the whole reason I'm here consulting you all - this job isn't complicated stuff and certainly not beyond the ability of a competent DIY-er who's suitably informed. I do concede posting more info. at the start would have been helpful but give a guy a break.. it was my first post after all

Back to the matter in hand.. my concern with installing a full size back box is the metal corner beading. Unless I cut chunks of it out then there's not really enough space to sink a flush unit in. I had presumed (perhaps incorrectly) that that would be a bad idea? And I want a full size switch installed ideally because this particular unit is a timer switch.

 

[K-Lye]

what is the width of the available wall space and is this a stud-wall with a possiblilty to move around the corner into a dry-lining box ??

It's 110mm wide and yes I could move it round the corner but that's my last resort.

What's wrong with the existing switch?

Nothing at all. I just want to install a full size timer switch.

 

[Des 56]

I will apologise before hand if this post offends

I watched the Monty Python film "Life of Brian" yesterday
There was a scene where the discussion was the all important agenda whilst the issue was trivial
Sorry to say.but this thread reminded me of that film

Its an accessorie designed to be fitted to an enclosure
The enclosure needs to be fitted,get it done for Petes sake,its trivial skill required and would not be beyond the ability of the most useless of "hands on" folk

To the op
It needs an enclosure,you have the capability, so FIT IT

Sorry for the dismissive reply,but there are limits to how to skin a bannana

 

[K-Lye]

Ok.. are we all quite done now playing "Bash the Poster"? :toetap05:

Its an accessorie designed to be fitted to an enclosure

You are the first to say this. There is nothing in the documentation or indicatation otherwise.

The enclosure needs to be fitted

Ok. Any advice on the fact this will involve cutting away some of the metal corner beading?

 

[Octopus]

Hi all.. I'm not an electrician by profession but not above doing any basic work that doesn't need qualification. I've got a scenario currently where I'm installing a new light switch - it's an fully enclosed unit with the terminations on the rear which leave part of the wires exposed where they terminate. Once mounted, this will be within the wall cavity of the stud wall where it's being installed. Not a real problem in itself but I prefer things to be done as best as possible so looking to dab so electrical sealant on the exposed wires (once fully terminated) to ensure they're fully insulated.

So here's the question - I know you can buy specialist electrical sealant but I believe that's industrial grade stuff and a bit overkill for the standard domestic 240V. I spoke with the local electrical specialist down at our B&Q who said normal silicon sealant would do the trick. That seems consistent with advice I've read online but I wanted to post here and get some expert views.

Thanks!

OK mate, you've had your answers and judging by your responses you're reluctant to accept advice despite asking for it.

All switches must be mounted in or on an appropriate back box, so it looks like a surface mounted box is the way forward. Mounting a switch without a back box is NOT advised.

As for the advice from B & Q - well the advice is bad.

 

[K-Lye]

OK mate, you've had your answers and judging by your responses you're reluctant to accept advice despite asking for it.

Really? Frankly, I could level some accusations of undue harshness towards a new poster who's come here asking for advice who qualified in his very first sentence that "I'm not an electrician by profession". I'm a member of a number of forums but the reception here is frosty to say the least. I've generally not been retorting and simply stating the facts so I'm a little unsure why you think I'm reluctant to take your advice.

All switches must be mounted in or on an appropriate back box, so it looks like a surface mounted box is the way forward. Mounting a switch without a back box is NOT advised.

This is possible of course but then I'm left with a less than attractive switch that sits proud of the wall by some 45mm! And of course, this still leaves me with the issue of having to screw through the metal corner beading.

As for the advice from B & Q - well the advice is bad.

This much is clear. Do you hear me defending them?

 

[Plonker 3]

Its you house, and as far as I am sure many of us are concerned you can do pretty much anything you like with it.

As has been pointed out about you seem dismissive of ideas and suggestions made to you, so do it your way just be prepared for the consequences should anyone ever get a injured from your "craftsmanship"

 

[K-Lye]

Its you house, and as far as I am sure many of us are concerned you can do pretty much anything you like with it.

As has been pointed out about you seem dismissive of ideas and suggestions made to you, so do it your way just be prepared for the consequences should anyone ever get a injured from your "craftsmanship"

Are you being serious?!! :skep:

Pray explain how I've been dismissive of any suggestion anyone has made? All I've been doing is highlighting the challenges of the job! What do you want me to say? :38: