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Pete999

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A friend of a Friend asked me to go and look at a Shower that didn't work, sure enough it didn't, I took the switch off, and the connections were, to say the least a bit iffy, cores cut out, tried my best to find out who did it and after some detective work he came clean and admitted it was him, changed the switch as a safeguard, all OK until this morning, shower packed up, got there did some checks, found the switch was faulty, he said this was the second time the switch failed, he was leaving the shower switched on at the shower itself but switching it on and off via the pull cord, I reckon switching the load via the pull cord damaged the switch, any thoughts?
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
you're looking at light switches. over here we have 45A ceiling mounted pull switches for thing like showers. maybe in australia they are floor mounted. :oops:
 
Nope you are quite right. There's no regulation in BS7671 to say 'when installing an electric shower for Mrs Pete999, there must be a form of local double pole isolation, with 3mm gap blah blah'.

537.3.2.1 suggests a circuit breaker is suitable means of isolation, although further guidance on this, can be obtained from Table 53.4 note (5). There's others, which I can't see the point of arguing over. Only TN supplies, think your up a gum tree with TT, but don't quote me.

134.1.1 'Good workmanship etc etc. The installation of electrical equipment shall take account of manufacturers instructions'.

I believe most, if not all domestic shower manufacturers recommend a double pole 'switch' ceiling mounted, or wall mounted in an adjacent room.

Seems like the manufactures see it as a good idea, who am I to argue?
Every so often someone says a shower or cooker needn't have a local DP isolator, but as I've said before BS7671 is the minimum standard we should adhere to and it's common sense to have an easy way to switch off anything electrical without faffing about at the CU. And if say a neutral to earth fault developed on a dual RCD board at the shower you'd lose half of the installation until the cable in the shower was disconnected.
Just wanted to give a "like" for this post :)
 
QUOTE [ It turns out these shower units are not common in Oz ] END QUOTE

quite correct,
most hot water in Australia is tank/storage type,
usually around 2000 to 3000W @ 240Vac
maybe we are quite a bit more temperite
to me anything below 20 celcius is cold
I get the impression that the UK is quite a bit cooler ?
i have seen only a couple of tankless heaters in my lifetime
but they are mainly gas powered and only in much colder climates.
Such as the blue mountains.
Carry on chaps !
 
QUOTE [ It turns out these shower units are not common in Oz ] END QUOTE

quite correct,
most hot water in Australia is tank/storage type,
usually around 2000 to 3000W @ 240Vac
maybe we are quite a bit more temperite
to me anything below 20 celcius is cold
I get the impression that the UK is quite a bit cooler ?
i have seen only a couple of tankless heaters in my lifetime
but they are mainly gas powered and only in much colder climates.
Such as the blue mountains.
Carry on chaps !
May blow the froth off a couple thisafter:)
 

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