Torque screwdriver !!!!! | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Torque screwdriver !!!!! in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

My method is that use a normal screwdriver to tighten the screws and then check with a torque driver, 9 times out of ten my torque driver will click, some boards will not allow you to torque without stripping the screws.
 
Just a point. I don't have any particular problems, but...

Pozidrive screw heads, especially in DB's have always provoked plenty of thought, as far as I'm concerned. It seems to me, a case of 'the quicker the better'. Hence the use of a torque driver coming into play. It seems an invitation to use battery drivers, which I don't agree with.
Why are the majority of final connections, at socket outlets, cooker units, switches , etc flat head screws?
What are the general opinions on which cause most trouble with damaged heads due to misuse, over tightening, etc?
 
I have a Draper Torque Screwdriver, with its selection of bits, which is kept in my toolbag for use where a specified torque is required. Lewden switchgear has the torque figure printed on. If it’s printed in the manufacturers instruction leaflet but not on the switchgear then I’ll print a label and affix to the inside of the board

If an ‘issue’ arises where your workmanship is being questioned at least you can say the thingee was torqued to the specified value

Mechanics have been using torque wrenches for years as over (or under) tightening a bolt or set screw can cause problems i.e. wheel nuts/bolts, cycle set heads, water pumps etc. If they did something up by feel alone and something started leaking then warranties would be voided along with them being out of pocket

Incidentally, the Wera VDE screwdriver buts fit in the Draper handle. Just saying
 
I have a Draper Torque Screwdriver, with its selection of bits, which is kept in my toolbag for use where a specified torque is required. Lewden switchgear has the torque figure printed on. If it’s printed in the manufacturers instruction leaflet but not on the switchgear then I’ll print a label and affix to the inside of the board

If an ‘issue’ arises where your workmanship is being questioned at least you can say the thingee was torqued to the specified value

Mechanics have been using torque wrenches for years as over (or under) tightening a bolt or set screw can cause problems i.e. wheel nuts/bolts, cycle set heads, water pumps etc. If they did something up by feel alone and something started leaking then warranties would be voided along with them being out of pocket

Incidentally, the Wera VDE screwdriver buts fit in the Draper handle. Just saying
Para 2 , as long as your torque drive is within calibration, I wonder sometimes how many Electricians, DIs think that because they use a torque driver everything will be Honky Dory, it's like MFTs they are only as good as the last calibration certificate says it is, in my opinion.
 
Another dissapointed armeg customer here... 2 years on the case doesnt hold the bits properly and ive snapped a handfull of blades! & its seldom used! Calibration also costs the same as a new handle!
 
I’ve said this before in another thread;
I had the VDE Wera torque set and knackered the handle TWICE. On both occasions I was trying to achieve a torque of +\-2Nm in an Earth terminal bar in an insulated consumer unit. So I gave up with it. I now use it as a GP driver set for “stuff” when the toolbag is elsewhere.
I replaced it with the abovementioned Armeg set, which set me back the same price as a replacement handle for the Wera set. It hasn’t let me down yet, but it only ever gets used for terminations in consumer units or devices where a specific torque is referred to in the destructions. To add to that I’m otherwise a big fan of Wera screwdrivers.
 
Who would think such a simple post would cause such a divide..
Loving hearing different peoples opinions !

Theres obviously room for the manufacturers to come up with a better torque driver if it all heads the way it seems to be..
 
I think all my turney stuff is now WERA. I'm doing BT power unit swaps, and we can get audited at any time. I find myself using the torque stuff more out of habit than that I have to.
 
I have a Wera interchangeable screwdriver set which comes with two handles?
Have thought about swapping one of the handles for the torque wrench adapter, but £70 is a bit much for something I’ve never used.
 
Okay they don't say you are to use a torque driver but how else are you going to achieve it, being devil's advocate here we all bang on about how you mustn't mix manufacturers mcb's, what is the difference between torque settings and pick and mix mcb selection, is one worse than the other?
Assuming someone isn't such a klutz that they can't spot busbar alignment or type incompatibility, mix'n'match means you lose type approval, and then there's 536.4.203.

As for torque settings, I guess you have to decide what you understand by "Manufacturers’ instructions shall be taken into account".
 

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