Torque screwdriver !!!!!

[rolyberkin]

Okay they don't say you are to use a torque driver but how else are you going to achieve it, being devil's advocate here we all bang on about how you mustn't mix manufacturers mcb's, what is the difference between torque settings and pick and mix mcb selection, is one worse than the other?

 

[Andy78]

Okay they don't say you are to use a torque driver but how else are you going to achieve it, being devil's advocate here we all bang on about how you mustn't mix manufacturers mcb's, what is the difference between torque settings and pick and mix mcb selection, is one worse than the other?

I'm sure I'm capable of tightening something up without a device to tell me I'm there. I have measured my usual connections against a torque driver many times and my wrist seems to be calibrated ok. I'll keep checking at regular intervals though.

Cards on the table, I'm not against torque drivers on principle, but I am against the way they are being advocated as the be all and end all of cable termination these days.
It seems that the use of torque drivers is being brought up regularly, but they are only any use if the basic techniques and skills of cable dressing, prepping, terminating and checking are adhered to. Try it yourself. A badly terminated cable is easily pulled out even if tightened with a torque driver.
It all seems a bit like non combustible consumer units to me, a method to try and patch over falling standards without addressing the system that is producing the hazards that necessitate these patches.

 

[sparkdog]

Don't think I could trust one to make sure the terminals were tight.

 

[ipf]

It all seems a bit like non combustible consumer units to me, a method to try and patch over falling standards without addressing the system that is producing the hazards that necessitate these patches.

…...and another money making method, jumping on the bandwagon of said 'falling standards'...…...of both quality of work and materials.

 

[FatAlan]

Perhaps someone should tell the colleges and training centres. All the screw heads and treads on their kit always seem stripped to bits.

 

[rolyberkin]

My method is that use a normal screwdriver to tighten the screws and then check with a torque driver, 9 times out of ten my torque driver will click, some boards will not allow you to torque without stripping the screws.

 

[ipf]

Just a point. I don't have any particular problems, but...

Pozidrive screw heads, especially in DB's have always provoked plenty of thought, as far as I'm concerned. It seems to me, a case of 'the quicker the better'. Hence the use of a torque driver coming into play. It seems an invitation to use battery drivers, which I don't agree with.
Why are the majority of final connections, at socket outlets, cooker units, switches , etc flat head screws?
What are the general opinions on which cause most trouble with damaged heads due to misuse, over tightening, etc?

 

[Midwest]

Think most of the CU's termination screws are the SL/PZ screwheads, much better fit & less damaged heads with the appropriate drive.

 

[Kevy]

I have a Draper Torque Screwdriver, with its selection of bits, which is kept in my toolbag for use where a specified torque is required. Lewden switchgear has the torque figure printed on. If it’s printed in the manufacturers instruction leaflet but not on the switchgear then I’ll print a label and affix to the inside of the board

If an ‘issue’ arises where your workmanship is being questioned at least you can say the thingee was torqued to the specified value

Mechanics have been using torque wrenches for years as over (or under) tightening a bolt or set screw can cause problems i.e. wheel nuts/bolts, cycle set heads, water pumps etc. If they did something up by feel alone and something started leaking then warranties would be voided along with them being out of pocket

Incidentally, the Wera VDE screwdriver buts fit in the Draper handle. Just saying

 

[Pete999]

I have a Draper Torque Screwdriver, with its selection of bits, which is kept in my toolbag for use where a specified torque is required. Lewden switchgear has the torque figure printed on. If it’s printed in the manufacturers instruction leaflet but not on the switchgear then I’ll print a label and affix to the inside of the board

If an ‘issue’ arises where your workmanship is being questioned at least you can say the thingee was torqued to the specified value

Mechanics have been using torque wrenches for years as over (or under) tightening a bolt or set screw can cause problems i.e. wheel nuts/bolts, cycle set heads, water pumps etc. If they did something up by feel alone and something started leaking then warranties would be voided along with them being out of pocket

Incidentally, the Wera VDE screwdriver buts fit in the Draper handle. Just saying

Para 2 , as long as your torque drive is within calibration, I wonder sometimes how many Electricians, DIs think that because they use a torque driver everything will be Honky Dory, it's like MFTs they are only as good as the last calibration certificate says it is, in my opinion.

 

[Ernie Shaw]

No doubt some one will have to callibrate annually

 

[suffolkspark]

Another dissapointed armeg customer here... 2 years on the case doesnt hold the bits properly and ive snapped a handfull of blades! & its seldom used! Calibration also costs the same as a new handle!

 

[EbolaSideRoom]

I’ve said this before in another thread;
I had the VDE Wera torque set and knackered the handle TWICE. On both occasions I was trying to achieve a torque of +\-2Nm in an Earth terminal bar in an insulated consumer unit. So I gave up with it. I now use it as a GP driver set for “stuff” when the toolbag is elsewhere.
I replaced it with the abovementioned Armeg set, which set me back the same price as a replacement handle for the Wera set. It hasn’t let me down yet, but it only ever gets used for terminations in consumer units or devices where a specific torque is referred to in the destructions. To add to that I’m otherwise a big fan of Wera screwdrivers.

 

[BruvDunk]

Who would think such a simple post would cause such a divide..
Loving hearing different peoples opinions !

Theres obviously room for the manufacturers to come up with a better torque driver if it all heads the way it seems to be..

 

[jeremy]

I think all my turney stuff is now WERA. I'm doing BT power unit swaps, and we can get audited at any time. I find myself using the torque stuff more out of habit than that I have to.

 

[GBDamo]

Have an Armeg set on the van, it is very shiny.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

I have a Wera interchangeable screwdriver set which comes with two handles?
Have thought about swapping one of the handles for the torque wrench adapter, but £70 is a bit much for something I’ve never used.

 

[Soi disant]

Okay they don't say you are to use a torque driver but how else are you going to achieve it, being devil's advocate here we all bang on about how you mustn't mix manufacturers mcb's, what is the difference between torque settings and pick and mix mcb selection, is one worse than the other?

Assuming someone isn't such a klutz that they can't spot busbar alignment or type incompatibility, mix'n'match means you lose type approval, and then there's 536.4.203.

As for torque settings, I guess you have to decide what you understand by "Manufacturers’ instructions shall be taken into account".

 

[Mike Johnson]

Yet another resurrected thread, your insomnia is getting worse.

 

[telectrix]

 

[Soi disant]

Yet another resurrected thread, your insomnia is getting worse.

Ah - but this time an update with a valid point about a regulation which was new and not in force at the time of the thread ?

 

[Strima]

One of the bits of kit I'm installing at the minute is made in Mexico and the DC power studs are #10-32 with a recommended maximum torque setting of 2.26Nm.

I haven't snapped one yet as I'm using my torque driver but the customers own installation teams have snapped two off meaning each unit has to be sent back to the factory on Mexico to be repaired...

Glad I bought it now as it could get a bit costly snapping them off...

 

[Mike Johnson]

Prefer this:

 

[Soi disant]

One of the bits of kit I'm installing at the minute is made in Mexico and the DC power studs are #10-32 with a recommended maximum torque setting of 2.26Nm.

No minimum?

Just do them finger tight, then, and you'll be bound to be below the maximum.

No, but seriously - that's a madly exact figure, arrived at by some brain-dead conversion process with no concept of ± to some sensible metric value. If accuracy down to 10‾² Nm was really necessary then they'd have to specify adjustments for temperature. I bet that any value between 2.15 & 2.35 would be fine.

the customers own installation teams have snapped two off

Are they from Mexico too?