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Hi there everybody, came across a different problem in a domestic household kitchen which contained two fluorescent strip lights when you switched them on the tv in the living room would go off for a minute, I began by checking the connections in the fittings apart from were the earths were looped and not connected to casing everything seemed fine. thinking it could be the starter I changed these but to no avail the problem still existed I then noticed there was a cap across the live and neutral connector of each. I phoned my supervisor and old him the checks I carried out, he said that the fittings need to be changed but after thinking about the problem im not so sure. do anybody have any ideas much appreciated

its probably something silly could not spend to much time as I had another several properties to visit

brian
 
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If there were a 2A socket next to a 13A socket, which one do you think is going to get used?

Why would there be a 13A Socket there? The suggestion was either an FCU or a 2A Socket.

Because it had been changed to something "more convenient".

If a homeowner decides to change an accessory without the proper knowledge, how is that an electrician's fault?
 
Why would there be a 13A Socket there? The suggestion was either an FCU or a 2A Socket.
No the suggestion was whether or not I use 2A plugs and sockets for table lamps, which I do, but only where there is a 13A socket to plug the vacuum cleaner in, which there wouldn't be in a loft, otherwise you'd just plug the aerial booster in there.

If a homeowner decides to change an accessory without the proper knowledge, how is that an electrician's fault?
You're introducing appliances into the loft. If there is nothing there which is the current situation they'd need to run an extension lead up there, off a 13A socket. If you run a 2A socket off the lighting circuit they can see it and be tempted to change it to make it more useful to them. As far as they can see it's a straight swap, socket for socket. If you just put a correctly installed 13A socket there in the first place there wouldn't be any risk of that happening.

It's bad enough with customers or DIYers wanting to know if they can redeploy a 2 way light switch which they never use so they can plug the vacuum cleaner in there instead, because there's already a box chased in; if the installation had been designed with more forethought they wouldn't feel the need to.
 
Since you've got one SFCU there for the TV booster then you might as well spur another from it for the new shower pump, then when they decide the best place for the new boiler is in the loft then they can spur that off from it too.
 
Since you've got one SFCU there for the TV booster then you might as well spur another from it for the new shower pump, then when they decide the best place for the new boiler is in the loft then they can spur that off from it too.

Perhaps we should wire all circuits in 10mm twin, just in case the customer decides they want to change all their accessories?
 
I think that is going a but far you can't prevent future modifications, they could spur the boiler from a pendant just as easy. I have no problem with a TV booster on the lighting circuit via an 3A FCU in the loft. I have done it myself. Come off a pendant to a switched FCU just for the booster. Whats the difference to running an extractor fan from lighting circuit?
 
I think that is going a bit far you can't prevent future modifications, they could spur the boiler from a pendant just as easy. I have no problem with a TV booster on the lighting circuit via an 3A FCU in the loft. I have done it myself. Come off a pendant to a switched FCU just for the booster. Whats the difference to running an extractor fan from lighting circuit?

There was a large amount of sarcasm intended in my post! ;) I wouldn't fancy running a 10mm three core for the two way!
 
Adam, I’ve a lot of respect for you but please stop digging a hole you can’t get out of

[ElectriciansForums.net] TV keeps going off when kitchen light is sw on
 
Unless anyone can come up with a convincing argument I'm going to stand by what I've said - the correct thing to install would be a 13A socket, not bodge it into the lighting circuit.
 
Unless anyone can come up with a convincing argument I'm going to stand by what I've said - the correct thing to install would be a 13A socket, not bodge it into the lighting circuit.

Fairly sure several convincing arguments have been made. If a customer has to interfere with their installation in order to overload the circuit, then it's not the fault of the installer.
 
Do you not think it would be better if a customer didn't feel the need to interfere with their installation in the first place?

Absolutely, but why would installing a specific accessory for one item make this more likely? What about a 3A FCU for a bathroom fan? Perhaps they'd like to change that into a socket.
 

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