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F1 = Battery 1A
F2 = Bell & sounder 1A
F3 = Aux 12V & speaker 500mA
F4 = Keypad network 500mA
F5 = Power supply 1.6A


On the board at CB5, take out the wires to terminals 6 and 7 (counting from left to right) and place a link in between them, see if that works :wink:
 
Going for all tampers first Paul, to check panel, will then remove each wire link to id fault...Diy member, so helping in stages
 
I''ve just re-read this thread, Tazz do you agree:-

To the OP- look at the spring tamper switch on the key pads and main control panel that you have removed and make sure the spring clicks when pushed. Now make sure it does that when you put the front cover of the panel back on, you may need to stretch the spring a bit? At this point also check the terminations of the Blue and Yellow wires at each of the opened keypads and main panel. Put all of the fronts back on as above and enter your user code and press reset.

Brighouse is not a million miles away from me (Leeds) and I love a challenge lol. If you get stuck, send me PM and we can scratch our heads in unison lol.
 
LOL Paul, Idea here is both 24hr and bell sab will be linked out, so if fault is still there, then yes, we need to look at tamper springs....so going one stage at a time for fault id, then hopefully we`ll have a conclusion for the OP
 
Going by the picture he has 3 x keypads on the same 6 core, thats fine but he is describing a loose connection or a spring in a keypad? Strange how this new fault occurred once he disconnected the sounder? Can you explain this to me Tazz, I dont get it but I'm no expert, trust me.

BTW Tazz I'm re-wiring a domestic system tomorrow from the early 90's, one wire from the panel and spider system from a rats nest of a hidden JB LOL. Only DC+&- going to the 5 PIR's!!! And this was maintained and tested each year for ten years!!! Cowboys, absolute cowboys.
 
Well hopefully, the stage test will show exactly were the tamper fault is coming from, old school link all out and remove one at a time to id .....with your 90`s job, this is not far from it with global tampers...lol...but then 5 pirs on a zone was common then.
 
.....with your 90`s job, this is not far from it with global tampers...lol...but then 5 pirs on a zone was common then.

Forgot to mention the PIR in the loft that is in a box with a rats nest of wires, I'll take a pic tomorrow. Customer is a Police Super Inspector of some sorts and knows a few things about alarms and security. He was not impressed when told that his alarm system is about as good as a door bell.
 
Sounds like you have your work cut out there...photos are always useful for members to see some of these so called pro installs
 
Sounds like you have your work cut out there...photos are always useful for members to see some of these so called pro installs

I'll take a few pics of the rubbish that some "professionals" leave the customers with. Me personally, I'd be ashamed of spending there hard earned cash. Every note out of my wallet is earnt through gods honest hard work and knowledge and not via the sort cuts. It's very easy to pull the wool over peoples eyes on alarms, just look at what the big boys have been doing for years????????
 
ok we need to do some tests to find the fault......leave all cables in, and with short piece of wire, bridge out terminals D & C and also short out tamper terminals.....replace cover, and that should get rid of tamper light, then repost you result, and we will go from there

Done that but tamper lights still on
 
ok if both are linked out, and the cover is on, and using code reset, has not turned tamper led off...........then the tamper spring on panel, is faulty, or kepad tamper spring......you need to check the tamper springs are operating when cover in put back on, may need stretching....At least we now know were the fault is. Don`t remove wire links, until switch is sorted.
 
ok if both are linked out, and the cover is on, and using code reset, has not turned tamper led off...........then the tamper spring on panel, is faulty, or kepad tamper spring......you need to check the tamper springs are operating when cover in put back on, may need stretching....At least we now know were the fault is. Don`t remove wire links, until switch is sorted.
sorted now. It was the tamper spring on the control panel. Stretched it a bit more now the tamper lights have gone off. I've managed to turn off the speaker as well. Thanks for all your help !
 
No problem...sorry it was long winded, but needed to id were the fault was, you can remove wire links now...and your done
 
After all that it was just the spring! Glad you have sorted it out.

Tazz I'll post up a thread with photo's later.
 

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