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T

thekingiam

Q25. Considering Regulations 134.1.1 and 510.2 which require equipment to be installed in accordance with instructions provided by the manufacturer, are installers now required to check torque settings for connection tightness at consumer units where these are manufacturers’ instructions.

Yes. It is necessary to check that all connections are tight, and any specific installation instructions must also
be followed.

does this mean i have to invest in a torque wrench, does it have to be adequately insulated.
can i use the one i used on my car .?.
or do they mean just check tight connections?

New or rewired domestic and similar installations : Electrical Safety Council
 
Get yourself on the Scrumpy!

re original Q, as others have hinted at, you'll know when you've got a good connection.
I always give a another quarter turn.

The ÂŁ50 B+Q supplied board I fitted had one nasty problem
Perhaps instead of a spirit level they should provide the unique torque screwdriver and bit that is so obviously needed :yesnod:
 
The ÂŁ50 B+Q supplied board I fitted had one nasty problem
Perhaps instead of a spirit level they should provide the unique torque screwdriver and bit that is so obviously needed :yesnod:

what problem is that? The over-stiff screws?

One of the things I like about the BG CUs is that there isn't a torque setting on the instructions so you can't be accused of getting it wrong! ;)
 
what problem is that? The over-stiff screws?

One of the things I like about the BG CUs is that there isn't a torque setting on the instructions so you can't be accused of getting it wrong! ;)

Yes it was,the board was customer supplied,I had not used them before,but other than what appears to be very poor threads.the board itself was surprisingly quite good
I gather that there was a problem which was acknowleged by their tech dept into some, if not all the units, as per tels post on another thread
 
My ELECSA assessment is coming up and I know he's gonna ask me if I've got a set. ÂŁ100 screwdrivers, bog off. Does anyone know if ELECSA and the like require you to have a set?
Under the same regulation, I've heard it's now not acceptable to 'make' a MCB fit into a different manufacturers board because the instructions say only to use genuine parts. Thats all ok if you can still get that particular make or type of MCB
 
just tighten em up fella.....you`l know when their tight enough.....just a tip though with stranded cables....when you think youv tightened em up....just tug em about a bit.....bet you they`l want nippin up again....this goes for tails n all......
 
The official line would possibly state that mcbs are type tested, fitting the wrong make invalidates the design of the board
The unofficial real life situation is.many mcbs are identical except for branding and if it fits and looks the part,in its going
 
My ELECSA assessment is coming up and I know he's gonna ask me if I've got a set. ÂŁ100 screwdrivers, bog off. Does anyone know if ELECSA and the like require you to have a set?
Under the same regulation, I've heard it's now not acceptable to 'make' a MCB fit into a different manufacturers board because the instructions say only to use genuine parts. Thats all ok if you can still get that particular make or type of MCB
they`l have one eye on the clock....the other will be on your bank account.....
 
Was changing a steeple MCB for an RCBO the other day, board previously fitted by us a couple of years ago, RCBO would not fit due to clamping onto bus bar in a different way. Apparently when Crabtree bought Steeple they changed the design of the MCB's without making them backwardly compatible. Wasted at least an hour and then had to tell the church I'd have to change the board anyway. Denmans gave me the Crabtree reps number and after I'd finished shouting at him he gave me a free 17th board fully loaded!
 
been forced to torque up UPS panels and incomer conditioning panels for years now, its to do with the fact that over or under torqued can result in damage, if to loose, mains hum can make the connections work more loose, and overheat, the looser they get, the quicker they get more slack and overheat more, or even start sparking.......too tight and they can elongate (stretch) the bolts and cause resistance changes, again leading o overheating......if the material can't handle that.....the bolts can even shear off/snap in extreme cases.....but I don't see this being a problem with household power levels......its only really in factories and industrial sites using big amounts of power with large amounts of noise and electrical cycling (vibration) under load/drawing big currents....like a water pumping site or a steel mill etc...
 

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