according to this thorough video YouTube video regarding cooking appliances with reg. references it is fine to put up to 15KW of cooking appliances on one 32A mcb circuit (due to diversity calculations ):
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Discuss Whole Kitchen wiring diagram advice (excluding lights) in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net
Ideally, every appliance would be on its own dp rcbo.thank you! is this any closer to ideal?:View attachment 111824
thank you! is this any closer to ideal?:View attachment 111824
i assume in this case isolator switch only required if the socket is behind the appliance and not easily accessible, otherwise why isolator if there is accessible plug? Or is it for extra safety due to water and steam additional hazard? and there were no fcu's on diagram next to appliances , only on integrated microwave because I assume it will come without plug. so just to recap: If it is not on a single socket on diagram it means the appliance is coming without plug. Not all appliances are purchased yet so this part is variable at the moment. All those switches be inside cabinets (within 2 meters from relevant appliance)Ideally, every appliance would be on its own dp rcbo.
Dishwasher/tumble dryer/washing machine etc would have isolator switch feeding single socket, not fcu.
The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.I assume it will come without plug.
Yes indeed. I'd forgotten about this. And it would seem so have some manufacturers of appliances. I had a 2.3kW oven to fit the other day that didn't come with a plug. In fact the flex had a label wrapped around it stating "do not fit a plug".The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.
It was prompted by the number of accidents caused by people fitting their own plugs! There are exceptions, but you will find when you buy your appliances pretty well all, other than a high current hob, will be fitted with a moulded on plug.
The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994
These Regulations re–enact with modifications the provisions of the Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1987 (S.I. 1987/603) and make provision for the first time for certain requirements to be satisfied in relation to appliances.www.legislation.gov.uk
Esther Rantzen's finest work!The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.
It was prompted by the number of accidents caused by people fitting their own plugs! There are exceptions, but you will find when you buy your appliances pretty well all, other than a high current hob, will be fitted with a moulded on plug. (Which brings another complication - if you cut that plug off, and the appliance is subsequently faulty, you may well get told that the warranty is void because you cut the plug off, which is rubbish, but still seems to be a prevalent thing)
The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994
These Regulations re–enact with modifications the provisions of the Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1987 (S.I. 1987/603) and make provision for the first time for certain requirements to be satisfied in relation to appliances.www.legislation.gov.uk
Yes indeed. I'd forgotten about this. And it would seem so have some manufacturers of appliances. I had a 2.3kW oven to fit the other day that didn't come with a plug. In fact the flex had a label wrapped around it starting "do not fit a plug".
Sadly just learned after a google that she's in stage IV lung cancer and not long left.Esther Rantzen's finest work!
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!I've a feeling it excludes items which are intended for installation by an electrician. But any appliance which is for immediate use by the general public must be fitted with a plug*. Not 100% on this though so happy to be proved wrong.
*plugtop, but don't say it 3 times!
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!
But then as you say there is a list of exclusions at the end, and I think number 7 tallies with your feeling.
View attachment 111844
Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.
But I also believe in simplicity where possible.
One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.
The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.
Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guysMight as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.
But I also believe in simplicity where possible.
One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.
The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.
Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guys
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