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Ideally, every appliance would be on its own dp rcbo.
Dishwasher/tumble dryer/washing machine etc would have isolator switch feeding single socket, not fcu.
i assume in this case isolator switch only required if the socket is behind the appliance and not easily accessible, otherwise why isolator if there is accessible plug? Or is it for extra safety due to water and steam additional hazard? and there were no fcu's on diagram next to appliances , only on integrated microwave because I assume it will come without plug. so just to recap: If it is not on a single socket on diagram it means the appliance is coming without plug. Not all appliances are purchased yet so this part is variable at the moment. All those switches be inside cabinets (within 2 meters from relevant appliance) [ElectriciansForums.net] Whole Kitchen wiring diagram advice (excluding lights)
 
Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.

But I also believe in simplicity where possible.

One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.

The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.

Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.
 
I assume it will come without plug.
The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.
It was prompted by the number of accidents caused by people fitting their own plugs! There are exceptions, but you will find when you buy your appliances pretty well all, other than a high current hob, will be fitted with a moulded on plug. (Which brings another complication - if you cut that plug off, and the appliance is subsequently faulty, you may well get told that the warranty is void because you cut the plug off, which is rubbish, but still seems to be a prevalent thing)

 
The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.
It was prompted by the number of accidents caused by people fitting their own plugs! There are exceptions, but you will find when you buy your appliances pretty well all, other than a high current hob, will be fitted with a moulded on plug.

Yes indeed. I'd forgotten about this. And it would seem so have some manufacturers of appliances. I had a 2.3kW oven to fit the other day that didn't come with a plug. In fact the flex had a label wrapped around it stating "do not fit a plug".
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The UK Plugs and Sockets Regulations require appliances (rated under 13A) to be fitted with plugs by the manufacturers.
It was prompted by the number of accidents caused by people fitting their own plugs! There are exceptions, but you will find when you buy your appliances pretty well all, other than a high current hob, will be fitted with a moulded on plug. (Which brings another complication - if you cut that plug off, and the appliance is subsequently faulty, you may well get told that the warranty is void because you cut the plug off, which is rubbish, but still seems to be a prevalent thing)

Esther Rantzen's finest work!
 
Yes indeed. I'd forgotten about this. And it would seem so have some manufacturers of appliances. I had a 2.3kW oven to fit the other day that didn't come with a plug. In fact the flex had a label wrapped around it starting "do not fit a plug".

I've a feeling it excludes items which are intended for installation by an electrician. But any appliance which is for immediate use by the general public must be fitted with a plug*. Not 100% on this though so happy to be proved wrong.

*plugtop, but don't say it 3 times!
 
I've a feeling it excludes items which are intended for installation by an electrician. But any appliance which is for immediate use by the general public must be fitted with a plug*. Not 100% on this though so happy to be proved wrong.

*plugtop, but don't say it 3 times!
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!
But then as you say there is a list of exclusions at the end, and I think number 7 tallies with your feeling.
[ElectriciansForums.net] Whole Kitchen wiring diagram advice (excluding lights)
 
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!
But then as you say there is a list of exclusions at the end, and I think number 7 tallies with your feeling.
View attachment 111844

Many thanks - that's what I had in mind. Makes sense that there had to be an exclusion to cover things like this.
 
Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.

But I also believe in simplicity where possible.

One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.

The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.

Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.

Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.

But I also believe in simplicity where possible.

One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.

The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.

Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guys
 
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guys

13A MCB? Maybe a 13A fuse in an FCU. Feb by a suitable MCB and cable obviously.

This is still in the 'design by forum' method though. I'm reluctant to give step by step advice as this would be against the forum guidelines.
 

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