Why fit a pull-cord switch for a shower?

[brman]

As far as i know, those with experience of shower installation use the 50A Crabtree pull switch, which also facilitates easier testing by taking the neon light out of circuit by dropping the switch from the back box...

If for no other reason, the inclusion of a readily accessible isolating pull switch for anyone using the shower as an emergency means of disconnection is to say the least ''prudent'' and well worth the effort!!!

Thanks, I looked at the cabtree isolator but went with what I knew in the end. Perhaps I should have tried it!

 

[oldtimer]

:furious3:It gives me so much pleasure getting 10.0mm twin & e in to a pull switch!

Never mind when they start making more powerfull showers you can do it all again with 16mm

Or why dont we just say these things have limitations because I have never seen an electric shower that is worth a ---- me like my name I am old fashioned I have the immersion heating the water then the power shower giving it big licks.

 

[Andy78]

My favourite is when you are trying to bend the 10mm cores into the box to screw the plate back, and crack !!! the backbox breaks.

 

[Des 56]

My favourite is when you are trying to bend the 10mm cores into the box to screw the plate back, and crack !!! the backbox breaks.

I think we all know the feeling and dread it
Worse than that would be the sight of the ceiling parting company with the wall when the push is in full flow

 

[Andy78]

That reminds me of a lad I worked with that second fixed a 50A pull. Another sparks gave it a go before it was energised and pulled the lot off the ceiling. The lad had not been bothered to find a joist and put the thing up on plasterboard with cavity fixings !
Much head shaking and ribbing ensued.

 

[sjm]

I only ever use the Crabtree 50 amp pull switch. Perfectly thought out for use with 10mm cable and as Engineer 54 has said when you remove the cover the neon goes with it, perfect for testing.

 

[rich.250]

Took me a while to find Crabtree pull switches. Now wouldn't use anything else. Can be a pain If replacing a different type with a Crabtree one though.

 

[GT1]

Defo use Crabtree for any "heavy" cable. Good quality gear I've found.

 

[PC Electrics]

The Crabtree 50A shower switch is the mutts nuts. At least it is and will be until the "cost down" boys at Crabtree get hold of it like they have the rest of Crabtrees stuff.

 

[brman]

Wow, lots of love for the crabtree switch. I might have to get one just to see why

 

[electromonkey]

Originally Posted by the oracle
As far as the Regulations are concerned, try Regulation 554.3.3, which covers 'Water heaters having immersed and uninsulated heating elements' (no, NOT electrode boilers, we are talking 'immersion type' heaters!).Electric showers contain a small tank with an instantaneous immersed water heater in it, and hence come into this category.

It states " The heater or boiler shall be permanently connected to the electricity supply through a double-pole linked switch which is either separate from and within easy reach of the heater or boiler or is incorporated therin".

If you then check Regulation 701.512.3, erection of switchgear, control gear etc etc, you will see it states that

"The following requirements do not apply to switches and controls which are incorporated in fixed current-using equipment suitable for use in that zone or toinsulating pull cords of cord operated switches".

Those are the Regs that probably cover your question. Other factors like isolation, safety etc have been mentioned by other contributors already so I wont add any more. Hope that helps

The Oracle

Well oracle I think you'll find that

1 Showers are not classed for 554.3 the same as kettles are not

2. 701.512.3 again as nothing to do with requirements for DP separate switches for showers, as this reg also includes the use of a pull cord switch for lights

It looks like someone may need to change their forum name. :wink5:

 

[Lucas]

I just put a 2gang 45amp isolator in the airing cupboard, think any sort of pullswitch looks pants tbh.

 

[vernam616]

Best way is to bring the cables through the box exactly how they are going to terminate into the switch, so you arnt crossing the conductors in the box, once terminated you can bunch the conductors so far and the. Push the switch back, to be fair this sort of stuff is learnt when serving your time

On another note does anyone know of THE quick way to strip 10mm?, something i only learnt a couple of years ago

 

[D Skelton]

As far as the Regulations are concerned, try Regulation 554.3.3, which covers 'Water heaters having immersed and uninsulated heating elements' (no, NOT electrode boilers, we are talking 'immersion type' heaters!).Electric showers contain a small tank with an instantaneous immersed water heater in it, and hence come into this category.

It states " The heater or boiler shall be permanently connected to the electricity supply through a double-pole linked switch which is either separate from and within easy reach of the heater or boiler or is incorporated therin".

If you then check Regulation 701.512.3, erection of switchgear, control gear etc etc, you will see it states that

"The following requirements do not apply to switches and controls which are incorporated in fixed current-using equipment suitable for use in that zone or to insulating pull cords of cord operated switches".

Those are the Regs that probably cover your question. Other factors like isolation, safety etc have been mentioned by other contributors already so I wont add any more. Hope that helps

The Oracle

It seems that Malcom beat me to it but hey, I'm having a pop too

Showers are in line heaters, not immersion heaters, end of. You don't need an isolator for a shower unless the instructions say so. That said, in most cases I still fit them out of habit, nothing more.

On another note does anyone know of THE quick way to strip 10mm?, something i only learnt a couple of years ago

One of these works a treat!

 

[vernam616]

I meant the grey outer sheath