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Steve93

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Currently On a new build and I wired the ring to a switch bank where I’m gonna have 4 switches switching those hood,fridge freezer,dishwasher and washing machine. From this I have ran a leg down to each socket behind the appliances. Now the kitchen fitter is kicking off that they shouldn’t be there because the appliance won’t go back fully? How does everyone else wire up kitchens in regards to appliances?
 
If the kitchen designers had any sense they’d make the work tops 650mm deep That would throw a spanner in the works but at least give space for a plug top!
Some kitchen manufacture's use 616mm worktops as apposed to 600mm this extra 16mm actual makes quite a difference believe it or not.
Personally though (from vast experience) the adjacent cupboard is my preferred option where possible. With a discreet hole cut that is just large enough to allow the plug top through. This saves cutting off the appliance's moulded plug and also makes it easier for the customer to pull in and out when required.
For integrated appliances that are basically designed to be fixed in place, suitably extending the lead if required works just fine. Or on occasion I have installed a conduit to an above counter fused spur where I can thread the flex from the appliance and wire it direct.
 
Using the flex and duraplug you can run them behind the kickboard and locate FSU anywhere you wish.

I measured a fridge freezer the other week and there was so little clearance I had to blank plate a socket behind it or it wouldn’t go in far enough to get screwed at the front.
 
Simply because people are advocating concealing sockets behind built on appliances, or loose behind kick boards.
A kick board is easily removed (unlike an integrated appliance). It can be removed in seconds. I'd call that very accessible.

Is fitting a click flow connector to a bit of floating T&E really acceptable (post #8). I wouldn't be too happy with it ... flex outlet plate a better job, but neither are MF rated. But what you have installed needs to be accessible as well anyway??

Bit of pot-kettle-black there.
 
Simply because people are advocating concealing sockets behind built on appliances, or loose behind kick boards.

To add to the clouds in this thread,sockets are very often sited in adjacent cupboards
We can read the Iee Building regs guide and 5.2.2 of that guide specifically mentions not putting sockets in cupboards
They make the statement then use the word "should" be mounted on the fabric of the building and not in kitchen cupboards

If the intention is use only the fabric of the building why didn't they use the word "must"!

The Iee can sometimes speak with forked tongue :)
 

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