Wiring a kitchen and where you put appliance sockets

[Steve93]

Currently On a new build and I wired the ring to a switch bank where I’m gonna have 4 switches switching those hood,fridge freezer,dishwasher and washing machine. From this I have ran a leg down to each socket behind the appliances. Now the kitchen fitter is kicking off that they shouldn’t be there because the appliance won’t go back fully? How does everyone else wire up kitchens in regards to appliances?

 

[andysparkfree]

see thats why I'm enjoying this forum , learning stuff (never stop learning )

 

[sparksburnout]

Yep

I have recently been putting them on flying leads as well, is this a no-no? We have established it is a really bad idea to have the socket on the "fabric" of the building behind the appliance. We have also established that it is not good to drill holes in new base units, or to put sockets in cupboards that are going to get filled up with stuff, so where the *** do you put the socket, assuming you can't cut the plug off? We don't half make life hard for ourselves don't we, maybe the JFDI approach is the way to go.

 

[123]

Cutting the plug top off isn't a no no, all warranties should still be valid if connected to a SFCU. Trouble with that is, either with flex outlet plate or conduit up the wall to the spur, is that the integrated appliance and kitchen will be in place by then. Sod dismantling it. And as good as the kitchen fitters are that I work with are, they are kitchen fitters and not Sparks, so getting them to connect to a flex outlet plate I'd rather not!

The only downside of trailing sockets for me is that if the appliance develops a fault the fuse in the appliance plug will pop and it's gonna take a little time to remove the kickboards to get at it. But with everything LED now any faults are likely to be a lot more serious to fix than just a lamp blowing.