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image.jpg Almost finished, just left to terminate the swa. No trunking this time:)
 
The only thing that i can see worth mentioning is to get ferrule crimps in those fine multi stranded neutrals going into the neutral bars....

Just as a point of interest the last Wylex board I fitted had neutrals like this; but they appear to be 'glued' for want of a better word; the ends are somehow fixed into a rigid pre-formed rectangular profile so they form their own profile, not sure how it's done but would welcome someone enlightening me.
 
Just as a point of interest the last Wylex board I fitted had neutrals like this; but they appear to be 'glued' for want of a better word; the ends are somehow fixed into a rigid pre-formed rectangular profile so they form their own profile, not sure how it's done but would welcome someone enlightening me.
I think it is the same with most of domestic CUs, hager, proteus is the same. They come from the factory that way, even if you take them out, they are not getting lose.
 
Just as a point of interest the last Wylex board I fitted had neutrals like this; but they appear to be 'glued' for want of a better word; the ends are somehow fixed into a rigid pre-formed rectangular profile so they form their own profile, not sure how it's done but would welcome someone enlightening me.


No idea i've only seen factory fitted crimped type ends. So what do you do when you cut these neutral tails to size, to suit the CU install?? If nothing else at least fitting an insulated ferrule crimp connector will do away with seeing bare conductor entering the neutral bus bars!!
 
No idea i've only seen factory fitted crimped type ends. So what do you do when you cut these neutral tails to size, to suit the CU install?? If nothing else at least fitting an insulated ferrule crimp connector will do away with seeing bare conductor entering the neutral bus bars!!

Not very pleasing on the eye and a bit lacking insulation wise but that's the way they come from the manufacturer. The strands are fused ... soldered in some way to make a solid.
They come in position, in made up lengths, to suit the whichever unit you buy, flexibility being the important point.
 
The line connectors on the 7th breaker from the left are a different shade of brown. Looks a right mess. Daz

"The line connectors........."

You mean conductors right ?

Well if you're going to be pedantic it's best to be accurate otherwise someone might come along and tear you a new --- for your own errors.
;-)
 
Nice neat and well presented y only comment if any is you have no room for expansion which should be factored into any design.
 
"The line connectors........."

You mean conductors right ?

Well if you're going to be pedantic it's best to be accurate otherwise someone might come along and tear you a new --- for your own errors.
;-)

Don’t you mean insulation Biff? The conductors will all be this funny copper colour. Touché.
 
Looks very good, I have never managed to get a board looking like that, just never happens. As much as I try, there's no way it's going to happen. I think it makes a huge difference to how neat it is depending on if the cables enter from the top, middle or bottom. I tend to use MK boards and neR from the top, so never have much free space.
 
Bootlace or the flat spade like variety, they are both crimped connectors. I just don't like seeing 10mm or more of bare conductor entering neutral bars, or the MCB's come to that!! From what i can see of the OP's CU installation, as neat as it is, those RCD tails could do with a bit of trimming down lengthwise...
 
Bootlace or the flat spade like variety, they are both crimped connectors. I just don't like seeing 10mm or more of bare conductor entering neutral bars, or the MCB's come to that!! From what i can see of the OP's CU installation, as neat as it is, those RCD tails could do with a bit of trimming down lengthwise...

As I indicated previously, they come in made up lengths, in position, and aren't meant to be trimmed down. They may look untidy but the idea is to have the flexibility and loose any excess length behind the main body of breakers. I've done my share of industrial panel building and installation and these wouldn't get a look in....but they are designed for ease of installation in a domestic situation, much the same as most items, these days.
 
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Bootlace or the flat spade like variety, they are both crimped connectors. I just don't like seeing 10mm or more of bare conductor entering neutral bars, or the MCB's come to that!! From what i can see of the OP's CU installation, as neat as it is, those RCD tails could do with a bit of trimming down lengthwise...

I agree, I don't like to see bare bare conductors in any environment, its not just about the looks. Whatever the reason - just wondered what your thoughts were on tidying those ends....
I've trimmed them down in the past but to be honest, its a multistrand cable with very fine strands and is an absolute pig to get into the terminals once the original finish is gone without any of the strands ending up outside the terminal.
 
Nice and neat my OCD approves :), though the 10amp on circuit 10 before the 16amp breakers would drive me nuts lol did you run out of breakers ;) or was the load less than you thought, it looks like a 6mm going into it or it's my eyes :).

Well spoted mate,it's 4mm and I didn't have a 20a breaker, that 10a is just so that I could finish it neatly and take a photo:)


I found it to be the same, routing cables from the bottom or middle into CU.

It is a good couple meters of earthing but not as much as it looks.
 
I agree, I don't like to see bare bare conductors in any environment, its not just about the looks. Whatever the reason - just wondered what your thoughts were on tidying those ends....
I've trimmed them down in the past but to be honest, its a multistrand cable with very fine strands and is an absolute pig to get into the terminals once the original finish is gone without any of the strands ending up outside the terminal.

That's why terminal crimping this type of cable is a must as far as i'm concerned...
 
I agree, I don't like to see bare bare conductors in any environment, its not just about the looks. Whatever the reason - just wondered what your thoughts were on tidying those ends....
I've trimmed them down in the past but to be honest, its a multistrand cable with very fine strands and is an absolute pig to get into the terminals once the original finish is gone without any of the strands ending up outside the terminal.


A little of bare neutral conductor in CU wouldn't make any other difference rather ten the looks. Before taking the cover it should be isolated and you can touch whole neutral bar anyway. I don't like the look of it but I tend to leave because of the manufacturer. I have seen one proteus CU with melted plastic around the neutral, it was due to CU couldn't hold the load that they specified. The neutral cable link was in 10mm and was getting too hot. I'm pretty sure if you would have trimmed the cable, they would say: oh it's your fault, that happened because you trimmed the cable.
 
A little of bare neutral conductor in CU wouldn't make any other difference rather ten the looks. Before taking the cover it should be isolated and you can touch whole neutral bar anyway. I don't like the look of it but I tend to leave because of the manufacturer. I have seen one proteus CU with melted plastic around the neutral, it was due to CU couldn't hold the load that they specified. The neutral cable link was in 10mm and was getting too hot. I'm pretty sure if you would have trimmed the cable, they would say: oh it's your fault, that happened because you trimmed the cable.

It's called having pride in the work you perform, which you have proved to have. Typically if it looks pit's, then it generally is pit's...

Ehhh, ....Are you being serious here??
 
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i could find some thing wrong with every single job if i felt that way out (and have done), but on the whole this is the best looking cu ive ever seen. good job mate.
 
Nice neat and well presented y only comment if any is you have no room for expansion which should be factored into any design.

Thanks, the reason was that company is saving money and wouldn't spend any extra on like getting a 16 way or 17 way board, however I could squeeze some lights into one msb, but because it's a flat , and there's feeds for future underfloor heating etc, I couldn't think of anything else you would come up installing in it that would require a separate msb.
 
It's called having pride in the work you perform, which you have proved to have. Typically if it looks pit's, then it generally is pit's...

Ehhh, ....Are you being serious here??

Not quite, if the accident would happen obviously it would be proven by investigation that it's has been manufactured wrong, but I would imagine if you would try to get your money back in the shop, saying it's getting to hot, they would try to blame it on you, on interfering with manufacturer. Although it probably depends on the people. I had spent half hour in the shop trying to prove that the rope light doesn't work because they have cut it in the wrong place :)
 
Not quite, if the accident would happen obviously it would be proven by investigation that it's has been manufactured wrong, but I would imagine if you would try to get your money back in the shop, saying it's getting to hot, they would try to blame it on you, on interfering with manufacturer. Although it probably depends on the people. I had spent half hour in the shop trying to prove that the rope light doesn't work because they have cut it in the wrong place :)

You would need to remove the Din Rail assembly when fitting and bringing cables into the CU, so you have already interfered with how the manufacturer presented the CU. Trimming and cutting of RCD tails to size etc will in no way whatsoever, affect any warranty or put any onus on you for doing so. Providing of course that all subsequent connections are electrically sound.

Retailers and wholesale counter staff are generally muppets at the best of times, it's just another occupational hazard that all electricians have to contend with!! lol!!
 
"The line connectors........."

You mean conductors right ?

Well if you're going to be pedantic it's best to be accurate otherwise someone might come along and tear you a new --- for your own errors.
;-)

I don't know why I typed that word. I think I must have been in such severe shock after seeing that pig's ear of an installation that I couldn't concentrate fully. Daz
 
Lots of pretty colours ... if you have to use incorrect clips/cleats for the cable i would have thought you could have made it look a tad neater by either inverting both cleats or using 1 cleat opened up into a bridge... but hey ho im a perfectionist so don't be offended. ;)

TBH a bit of 2/2 white plastic trunking would have taken this job to the next level just at a cost of a few extra quid ... but all in all not too bad.
 
Lots of pretty colours ... if you have to use incorrect clips/cleats for the cable i would have thought you could have made it look a tad neater by either inverting both cleats or using 1 cleat opened up into a bridge... but hey ho im a perfectionist so don't be offended. ;)

TBH a bit of 2/2 white plastic trunking would have taken this job to the next level just at a cost of a few extra quid ... but all in all not too bad.

Or a bit of panel trunking
 
it was a extra work and i dont have to much time..plus I dont get that amount i asking for..

Fair do's ... as long as the customer gets the options up front its up to them to pick how you proceed but my comment was because it would have taken less than 15mins and probably a piece (offcut) out of any company stock and even a new piece wouldn't be that much to buy; Labour and materials - I would have been surprised if topping the quote with £20 quid wouldn't have covered it.
 
A self build 2 tier board sounds the best option here rather than having 2 separate entities .... and what about circuits that require rcbo/mcb protection so they don't lose power with a fault on another circuit... Intruder Alarm comes to mind, fridge freezer, boiler not written in stone to have these separate but good design to and there is a regulation that requires you to avoid nuisance tripping causing further problems (a good reason high integrity boards should always be used to give spare unprotected busbar ways so you can utilise them for such circuits) A tripped RCD while your away for a night and the alarm drains its panel battery and set the external SAB unit off.... if they don't have an alarm you haven't left them any options for it in future if they get one....

Saw a company put a rcd covered board in a pub to do all the pub area ... a fault on the dish washer lost all the pubs power and the board had only been fitted 2weeks prior .. the company said it nothing to do with their board and was an external fault .....i kindly wrote a letter quoting the poor nature of design fitting this board and the regulations to back up my point, and because they had a contract with the brewery and did all their pubs i said i would be forwarding it to the brewery too...

They returned next day removed the rcd fitted rcbo's throughout lol and didn't charge for it.... lesson learnt i hope, although domestic hasn't got the same enforcement of these regulations as the consequences are not as dire.
 
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