This is the thread that inspired me to start looking at this upgrade. The U6 is the type of thing I'm thinking of, but I really don't need anything that sophisticated or expensive. They're just for holiday cottage guests to use their phones, tablets and smart TVs.
No doubt the dream machine pro...
Switch A can rearranged so that it feeds the TVs and the existing internal router, so switch B can then be plugged straight into one of the BT router LAN sockets, but switch C will still need to be daisy chained through B, since there's no way the 41m orange cable can be routed back to the bunch...
I'm afraid I have an almost total mental block when it comes to tech stuff. The routers, apart from the BT one, are just wi fi transmitters and receivers - is that what's meant by access point? No equipment will need to be connected to them by cable.
'DC' on the drawing refers to DC power feeds...
I've moved two of my supplies from E7 to a standard 24 hr tariff. All that happened is that both rates are still read, but billed at the same price, the price it would be if it was a single rate meter.
Need to upgrade the wi fi/internet stuff at my place. I thought that there was a dedicated forum for this kind of stuff, but it seems I'm mistaken, so I'll stick it in the general forum, where I hope it'll be seen (or ridiculed) by some of our more knowledgeable members on the subject.
The pic...
Don't have E9 in my area, but do have E7, which is probably similar, but with two hours less.
With E7, all electricity that you consume during the 17 hour period is at the more expensive rate and all electricity used in the 7 hour period is at the cheaper rate. The only difference with the...
If all the heaters and the water heater have their own individual timers, then it would be best for everything to be on a 24 hour supply. This can be achieved, with RCD related reservations, by removing the tails for the heating fuse box from wherever they are now and connecting them to the same...
First of all, deriving a property's 'earth' terminal by connecting it to the incoming neutral supply wire is very common in the UK, and is known as PME or TNC-S, but this earthing terminal is provided by the supplying authority, subject to conditions, and relies on the incoming neutral being...
Do you men plugged with a 13A plug and a 13A socket, or hardwired, where the heater cable is permanently connected to something that looks like a switch.
It is potentially very dangerous to have 13A sockets that can become live by remote switching.
Sockets on an automatically switched supply are not a good idea at all. All it takes is for someone to plug something such as a switched on hairdryer or radiant heater into the socket when it isn't energised and later you have a burnt out ruin.
There will be changes made to your supply in the near future, whatever your off peak times are now. The radio signal that controls the tele switch is due to be turned off in the near future, and I would have expected that you would have already received letters or emails from your supplier...
That's them, but with the thickness of steel current boxes are made of, you'd need to close the clips up a bit before using, and, yes, they do occasionally fall off.
Haven't seen them for sale for years, but then, I haven't looked for them either.
I much preferred the boxes with the flanges...
A sentiment I share.
There used to be metal boxes with a 10mm wide flange fitted to each end, set bout 10mm back, with a 3.5mm threaded hole in the centre of the back. You cut out your hole in the plasterboard, glued a small piece of plywood to the inner face of the wall behind, manoeuvred the...
There is a slight possibility that there's nothing wrong with the existing fitting. Some fittings are designed with a function that allows them to be switched permanently on by switching them off and back on almost immediately.
This would normally be done by the wall mounted switch which this...
I fitted several of these GE boards back in the day. That's not a test button, it's an embossed section on the aluminium profile used to link the two SP switches that make up the main switch.
That's why I can't see anything wrong with it , then (apart from a little to much exposed copper where the red and yellow share a terminal).
A pic of the new switch and wiring might help.
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc