We have three, all rescue cats that were found in a bin liner in a park. They are about 5 months old now. I didn't think I was a 'cat person', having always had dogs in the past. But, they are growing on me. Some of the things they get up to! Like getting on top of the kitchen cupboards...
I was replying generally to the idea of using rear knockouts. In the OP's picture it does look like the CU is mounted straight on a wooden surface, with the back knocked out. Not sure why I must say.
That reminds me of when I was a boy, helping my old man digging a trench for a new culvert, we found a rusty old shotgun in what was left of a bin liner. My dad took it to the cop shop.
I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
I already calculate maximum demand using energy efficient options, e.g. no it's not 100W per light fitting any more despite what the IET says. They need to catch up on simple things like that.
Cheers Ian for the reassurance. The 6mm goes from the CU to a JB under the living room floor where it splits to feed the 3kW heater, then carries on upstairs where it splits to feed the 2 x 2kW heaters. Managed to get that joint in a back box with blanking plate but used Wagos again.
So I am here at this job now and I wondered if anyone can answer this. Attempting to replace a carp taped up joint that I found under the floorboards with a MF alternative. 3 x 6mm^2 T&E to be jointed. Got a Wagobox and was going to use 3 x 773-173 connectors, as they will take up to 6mm...
If I had gone to a job and seen a customer then found out they were going online to find out what materials to buy I wouldn't be particularly impressed. Why not just wait and let the electrician get everything, that way you know it will all be right, and also more likely to be guaranteed by...
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