Hi all,newbie here,i,ll dive straight in,i have a daewoo musso 2.9td 1999,and its developed a fault,the abs light is permently on and i have no glow plug light and its a mare trying to start from cold,ive had it a 5 garages local to me,four of them started crying because they couldnt scan it,the 5th bless him has got the furthest yet he found the 3rd glow plug cable was touching the engine and causing the 80amp abs fuse to blow,he straightened the end out which is attached to glow plug and i had both lights doing what they should been great for 4 days now its blown fuse again and in back to square 1,has anyone any ideas where i go from here,im thinking its now the cable could be shorting out somewhere but m guessing,cheers all.
I'm no expert on Daewoo glow plugs but if a cable was damaged and had just been 'straigtended out' then I would be looking there again for the problem. Its probably time to replace that glow plug and or loom (and check the others wbilst you are there). I imadgine the loom could be salvaged from a breakers or possibly the ends rebuilt by an auto electrician with the correct crimp tools.
Hi shaun1,thanks for reply,the guy did bench test all plugs and they were all good,he replaced no3,because when he tested it it blew the fuse on his tester,id replaced the plug myself a week earlierxwhen my problems originally started,and i must of twisted the cable,but what sounds funny to me is the problem was already there,so dont understand why mechanic said the cable was touching engine and blowing fuse,am i right in thinking a fuse will blow because theres a short or bad ground,electrics is such a minefield very confusing.
If it's a single core connected to the glow plug, then yes if the copper core of the cable (or a connector attached to it) touches the engine it will blow a fuse because the core will be carrying 12v and the engine will be at 0v (assuming of course it's a negative earth arrangement).
Thanks for that sparkychick,looks like i,ll be checking the glow plug loom out this weekend then.oh joy.
Cheers again shaun1,i suppose i should expect brittle wires due to age of vehicle,luckily its only a shortish loom,cheers again bud.
P
PEG
If the same fuse is blowing,it would indicate a fault on the same circuit.
Although glow plugs usually fail open circuit,on occasion,they can short,internally. Is this a Merc engine?
Although glow plugs usually fail open circuit,on occasion,they can short,internally. Is this a Merc engine?
Yes it is the merc engine,a few have laughed when ive said that and said have fun they fault for fun,i can see this being a bigger job than first thought.
You are not wrong there,cant wait to start delving on the wiring,im hoping for an easy fix,a dodgy wire in the loom i hope, if not the crusher will sort it once and for all. Lol.
Cheers ruston,gets abit disheartening when its been going on for nearly a month,i,ll keep going its challenging.
Just had the 5th mechanic tell me he doesnt now no why the 80 amp fuse keeps blowing he doesnt reckon its a short in the wiring because his two wire and fuse homemade tester doesnt blow after he straightened the cable out,he said he thinks its drawing to much ampage,and said try disconnecting on glow pkug and see if that works,baffled.
Hi yes ive got a metre,i changed all 5 a year ago,all good till a month ago did the ohm test 3 and 4 had high readings 55+,so changed them the rest 0.6,which apparently i should be looking for,but thats when problems started my glow plug light went out completely abs light came on permenetly,been nightmar3 ever since,the last test i did,i got .
no1 0.2 no2 0.2 no3 0.6 no4 0.6 no5 0.2,not been able to do another yet as ive ran out of fuses used 12 upto now doing tests it blows everytime i do preheat cycle on ignition,when the 80 amp abs fuse blows i dont get power to glow plug relay,sone fuse blow straight away sone tahe 6 turns of the ignition cycle waiting forcmore fuses now before i can carry on.been looking at doing an overide manual switch in the cab if its possible taking the relay out of the equation..
no1 0.2 no2 0.2 no3 0.6 no4 0.6 no5 0.2,not been able to do another yet as ive ran out of fuses used 12 upto now doing tests it blows everytime i do preheat cycle on ignition,when the 80 amp abs fuse blows i dont get power to glow plug relay,sone fuse blow straight away sone tahe 6 turns of the ignition cycle waiting forcmore fuses now before i can carry on.been looking at doing an overide manual switch in the cab if its possible taking the relay out of the equation..
Dis you measure the glow plugs with each one disconnected from the loom? If those 3 glow plugs are 0.2 ohms they will be drawing 60a each. Sounds like they have failed short circuit. Did you replace them with pattern parts? Perhaps they have not been manufactured to the same standard as the originals.
No tested them connected,i replaced all 5 from europarts,was told just make sure they were 11.5 v which they were cant remember the make though,should i test unconnected aswell then and what sort of reading should i look for.
Yes take them out to test them individually. Try the circuit with them out to prove no short in harness . Euro parts are not renouned for quality parts either . Get a decent set if they are not reading as they should .
It is as @PEG said earlier . If you are blowing fuses at that rate you could have a shorted one.
It is as @PEG said earlier . If you are blowing fuses at that rate you could have a shorted one.
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P
PEG
Fully agree with the Euro analysis,in the past,i have had alleged genuine Bosch parts,from them,which were snide,and in snide packaging, Heaven knows what the provenance of the cheap option,is.
As for the testing of glowplugs,remember readings will differ,from cold to operating temp. Your vehicle will as likely have,"post operation" of the glowplugs. This is continued operation,after starting,to enable steady,low rpm running.
The fact that the engine is running,dissipates the heat,and allows extended functioning. If you just apply a feed to the glowplug,without this,it will burn out,or at least become damaged.
You can test this,with a spare,unwanted plug,and watch it melt
They are usually Volt rated,too,so can be designed to operate under load,at anything from 5V to 11.5V.
If that yoke has a similar glowplug control unit,to the Sprinters,etc,it may have failed,and be allowing the plugs to stay on too long,thus burning them out,maybe till they short. The controller will have an input from an engine temperature sender,which may be faulty.
Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up
As for the testing of glowplugs,remember readings will differ,from cold to operating temp. Your vehicle will as likely have,"post operation" of the glowplugs. This is continued operation,after starting,to enable steady,low rpm running.
The fact that the engine is running,dissipates the heat,and allows extended functioning. If you just apply a feed to the glowplug,without this,it will burn out,or at least become damaged.
You can test this,with a spare,unwanted plug,and watch it melt
They are usually Volt rated,too,so can be designed to operate under load,at anything from 5V to 11.5V.
If that yoke has a similar glowplug control unit,to the Sprinters,etc,it may have failed,and be allowing the plugs to stay on too long,thus burning them out,maybe till they short. The controller will have an input from an engine temperature sender,which may be faulty.
Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up
Lmao quality that peg dont tempt me,ive got more 80 amp fuses due tomorrow,so cant play till then,could a dodgy glow plug cause that much ampage to blow an 80 amp fuse,its crazy to me ya could run a house on a fuse like that then all that it takes is one turn of a little key and bang please feed me with another fuse now.
[QUOTE="
Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up[/QUOTE]
Reminds me of the old Massey 65 ,turn the heater lever on with other thumb on the plug on the dash till your brain told you it was hot enough to start in the prevailing conditions lol.
Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up
[/QUOTE]Reminds me of the old Massey 65 ,turn the heater lever on with other thumb on the plug on the dash till your brain told you it was hot enough to start in the prevailing conditions lol.
Hey guys,ive just found a glow plug loom a guys selling 30 english pounds,do think its worth the risk and get it ir better to do my tests first when my fuses come.
Im sorry ruston,im a thicko bear with me so i take all the plugs out attach 1 at a time to harness and test,thicko bit do i test with multi meter,black cable on negative red in plug,please say yes my head hurts lol,now what do you mean by test circuit do you mean the loom itself without plugs in if yes negative again red on cable end where plugs attach,told you im thick.sorry to peck your head so much.
No either take them out (test them to make sure they are ok , your problem maybe there) or disconnect the leads from the plugs.
Isolate the bare ends from earth to stop them shorting.
If you want to you could connect a lamp or multimer to them securely , turn the ignition on and see if you get a reading or lamp lit, normally this would switch off when max temp and time has been satisfied , but as has been said they may have a cold engine run on to prevent lumpy cold running. If this does not blow a fuse then it may prove the harness is sound.
The best way is to test each live feed in the harnesss to ground, after testing for end to end continuity with your meter to see if any are shorted.
While you have the plugs out test them properly.
I take it the fuse is blowing instantly.
PS , if the lamp does not go out it may be the way the temp is read or as PEG alluded to earlier.
Isolate the bare ends from earth to stop them shorting.
If you want to you could connect a lamp or multimer to them securely , turn the ignition on and see if you get a reading or lamp lit, normally this would switch off when max temp and time has been satisfied , but as has been said they may have a cold engine run on to prevent lumpy cold running. If this does not blow a fuse then it may prove the harness is sound.
The best way is to test each live feed in the harnesss to ground, after testing for end to end continuity with your meter to see if any are shorted.
While you have the plugs out test them properly.
I take it the fuse is blowing instantly.
PS , if the lamp does not go out it may be the way the temp is read or as PEG alluded to earlier.
Yes fuse pops straight away,or smokes first but then pops on next turn of key,ive not tried it myself since the mechanic straightened out the no3 cable because i ran out of fuses.
P
PEG
Hi,the fuse should definitely not,be smoking first...
You may have a high resistance issue,at the fuse holder. Check this first
You may have a high resistance issue,at the fuse holder. Check this first
Cheers peg will do,yeh smokes quite badly,even when it worked for a couple of days it smoked but didnt blow,theres 3 fuses in this box attached to positive on battery 80 amp abs 80 amp alternator and 30 amp its got comp on box lid i presume compressor?? The abs fuse as also got something else written on box but cant make out what it says,i have seen a schematic and it says abd but doesnt look like that on box two wires go into this one fuse though a red and a white.
Hi all,i just want,to say a massive thank you to the guys who,ve been giving loads of excellent advice over the last few days thank you,oh and just a quick update,i recieved my new fuses this morning,i began to do the tests u was advised to do,it never rains hey,dont buy cheap glow plugs is the message here,tws6s ate cancelled,the 1st plug i tried the nut holding it wont undo the the top of glow plug the cables attached too its all turning the top is nurled and push fitted in cheapo crappio,so ive stopped,put new fuse in and car does all it should again but no smoke from fuse this time,i will say i paid double for these fuses,company called durite miles better made im waiting for engine to cool then try again its started a dozen times upto now but watch this space.cheers again guys.
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