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Thats good news How do you know the outside bell dont work have you set the alarm and then set the alarm off by activating a sensor or door contact , and yes any bell box should work

When I opened the panel up the Internal sound rang but the outside didn't then when I set the new code I did the bell test again Internal rang outside didn't do anything.

I don't want to start a new thread it's sort of the same subject so I'll try here first

My mother in law alarm (family not having much luck with alarms at the min) started going off the other day for no reason now the keypad, pirs etc are dead. Got mains at the control panel but the glass fuse has blown. I've ordered some more to put one back in but going a feeling there's more to it than its just popped.

Am I right in thinking there should be 12-24v at one bracket of the glass fuse? If there should be then I think the transformer inside the panel has gone as there's mains coming in and would explain why the alarm started ringing (thinking the power had been cut)

If this is the case can these transformers be picked up or is it a case of changing the panel?

Here's a picture of the panel

[ElectriciansForums.net] Alarm control panel
 
The 1A fuse is the battery fuse assuming the battery is good it would be possible to have 12vdc on each side of the fuse holder
Have you checked the output from the secondary side of the transformer to prove it is faulty you should get a voltage of 18 - 20vac if it is ok
Have you checked the battery voltage?
 
The 1A fuse is the battery fuse assuming the battery is good it would be possible to have 12vdc on each side of the fuse holder
Have you checked the output from the secondary side of the transformer to prove it is faulty you should get a voltage of 18 - 20vac if it is ok
Have you checked the battery voltage?

Shows how much I no about alarms lol. The fuse didn't have continuity but when placed it back in the fuse holder it did? I only had my continuity tester with me not my multimeter. I couldn't get the probes in properly on the output side of the transformer but on the pcb wasn't picking anything up on the pir terminals
 
Shows how much I no about alarms lol. The fuse didn't have continuity but when placed it back in the fuse holder it did? I only had my continuity tester with me not my multimeter. I couldn't get the probes in properly on the output side of the transformer but on the pcb wasn't picking anything up on the pir terminals

Without a multimeter you are not going to fault find on an alarm system
 
Without a multimeter you are not going to fault find on an alarm system

I've got one but left it in the van didn't take it with me. I'll have a butchers at the weekend with the multimeter. Is there any obvious things to look out for ? All sensors, keypad etc are dead.

When placing the continuity tester on both sides of the glass fuse holder it didn't pick up any voltage
 
If its blowing fuses then probley have a short on one of ghe outgoing 12 volt suppys to the detectors disconnet them may be agood start , also with your other alarm try setting it with the code and then activate one of the pirs and see if the bell box works then it may be that the test function is not working and the outside bell will not go off if you just remove the alarm box cover
 
If its blowing fuses then probley have a short on one of ghe outgoing 12 volt suppys to the detectors disconnet them may be agood start , also with your other alarm try setting it with the code and then activate one of the pirs and see if the bell box works then it may be that the test function is not working and the outside bell will not go off if you just remove the alarm box cover

The fuse in the spur is fine. The fuse in the mains connection in the alarm box is fine just nothing on the pcb but I'm going to have a look Saturday with my multi meter.

the other alarm I did the bell test on the keypad keypad and internal sounded went off but not the bell box if I go up in the near future I'll try setting it off and see if the bell box works
 
The fuse in the spur is fine. The fuse in the mains connection in the alarm box is fine just nothing on the pcb but I'm going to have a look Saturday with my multi meter.

the other alarm I did the bell test on the keypad keypad and internal sounded went off but not the bell box if I go up in the near future I'll try setting it off and see if the bell box works
Yes that fuse will protect all your 12 volt circuits the red and black cables twisted together disconnect them as there may be a short on one of them coursing the fuse to blow
 
Looking at the age of the panel...and only one fuse protecting battery & aux circuits...would suggest battery has gone, taking the fuse with it. Would think the bell box nicad has also thrown a wobbler, and even split open.
Time for new fuse, battery & bell box...personally looking at the cracked keypad, I would change the lot.
 
Looking at the age of the panel...and only one fuse protecting battery & aux circuits...would suggest battery has gone, taking the fuse with it. Would think the bell box nicad has also thrown a wobbler, and even split open.
Time for new fuse, battery & bell box...personally looking at the cracked keypad, I would change the lot.

Sorry this is 2 different alarms. The picture of the pcb is the second alarm with the fault on. The bell box works on this one. The first one is a 700l which I had to reset the code for my other halfs sister. The second one is a 800l but failed last week.
 
So pirs are not lighting up/working and bell test is also not working...correct?

The first alarm bell test isn't working but to be honest it looks like it's seen better days but that's all on that one. Second one pirs, keypad and bell box not working everything's dead about from mains coming in
 

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