I think we are being a little pedantic here. If a nut had a mark on it I wouldn't be rushing back down the wholesalers and buying a new one undoing the SWA and spending another 20 mins or so replacing it.
 
You can make argument against using a hammer and screwdriver to tighten em,but you cant and wont beat them for slackening off an old one :cool:


I also think the excellent tightening of the lock nut using a hammer and screwdriver (compared to spanners and grips) goes some way to negate the aesthetic look of the indented locknut hidden on the inside of a dist board or panel

Pity they dont make them with a ready made grove for this vile practice :)
 
I don't think I've ever done a gland that didn't have a small scratch on it, it happens because I like to do them up tight. I have never even considered this, and have never had a customer who gives a ----. Shrouds cover all anyway.

If a nut was [properly damaged then fair enough, but a bit of a scratch or a tiny bit of rounding.... come on!
 
In an ideal world, not marking anything would be prefferable.
However I have often found that adjustables and slip joint pliers will not fit inside enclosurers.
Using pliers with ridges on the jaw faces can be usefull, if you can't get to the flats of the inside nut.
Sometimes wedging a large flat screwdriver between the nut face and the side of the enclosure will work.
Ring spanners are often the best option, but how many do you cart around?
 
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Title
Best grips for swa
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Marvo,
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