Changing original 32Amp contactors for solid state relays?

[marconi]

Good morning. Re #44. Could you measure the voltage between earth and the red and then the blue on the supply side of the contactor to establish their potential please. I suspect they are connected to L1 and L2.

 

[Yonny24]

Good morning. Re #44. Could you measure the voltage between earth and the red and then the blue on the supply side of the contactor to establish their potential please. I suspect they are connected to L1 and L2.

Good morning

Red reads 23v
Blue 226v

So poles 1-4:
207
23
23
226

Many thanks

 

[marconi]

Did you spot the danger in the wiring shown in your picture in #42? You will have to sleeve the red conductor or shorten it. Until then keep your fingers out!

The zone you mention is fed across L-N and I am pretty sure L2-N because your L2 is higher voltage than your L1 in previous readings.

You will need two double pole contactors each supplied by the same L-N pair as now.

Each of the elements is then fed by a double pole output from one or the other contactor.

Alas, you will have to run in a new neutral to the point where the elements' Ns are joined - but you expected the requirement to do that. It was lazy wiring not to run one in the first place. Use the same thickness cable as now.

You can then think about one of these wireless thermostats and receivers for each element such as these:

Honeywell RF DT92E1000 Wireless Digital Room Thermostat | ElectricalDirect - https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/honeywell-rf-dt92e1000-wireless-digital-room-thermostat-611235?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhZr1BRCLARIsALjRVQP_fehCHwVa2GQkvKOaTv03u74WSe2iyqTlWLn4Ehsbqn3kHMTNCMcaAqTsEALw_wcB

Or a programmable wireless thermostat like this one:

2 in 1 Programmable Wireless Room Thermostat - 22874 - Controls | BES.co.uk - https://www.bes.co.uk/2-in-1-programmable-wireless-room-thermostat-22874

 

[Yonny24]

Did you spot the danger in the wiring shown in your picture in #42? You will have to sleeve the red conductor or shorten it. Until then keep your fingers out!

The zone you mention is fed across L-N and I am pretty sure L2-N because your L2 is higher voltage than your L1 in previous readings.

You will need two double pole contactors each supplied by the same L-N pair as now.

Each of the elements is then fed by a double pole output from one or the other contactor.

Alas, you will have to run in a new neutral to the point where the elements' Ns are joined - but you expected the requirement to do that. It was lazy wiring not to run one in the first place. Use the same thickness cable as now.

You can then think about one of these wireless thermostats and receivers for each element such as these:

Honeywell RF DT92E1000 Wireless Digital Room Thermostat | ElectricalDirect - https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/honeywell-rf-dt92e1000-wireless-digital-room-thermostat-611235?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhZr1BRCLARIsALjRVQP_fehCHwVa2GQkvKOaTv03u74WSe2iyqTlWLn4Ehsbqn3kHMTNCMcaAqTsEALw_wcB

Or a programmable wireless thermostat like this one:

2 in 1 Programmable Wireless Room Thermostat - 22874 - Controls | BES.co.uk - https://www.bes.co.uk/2-in-1-programmable-wireless-room-thermostat-22874

Thanks Marconi. If you feel the urge a diagram would be very helpful thanks.

Yes looks like the 2 other zones have the same set up. (using the 1st and 2nd poles each going to 2 zones). 6 zones in total from the 3 poles.

btw that black tape on the red cable is just holding the 3 wires in a bundle don't worry no connections under the insulating tape. Looks like they ran out of cable ties!! A lot of laziness in this set up.

 

[marconi]

Could you please send me a photo(s) which shows the current upstairs control wiring?

 

[Yonny24]

Could you please send me a photo(s) which shows the current upstairs control wiring?

hmm odd the fpg images are not uploading tonight. I'll try again later
"The uploaded file was not an image as expected."

 

[Yonny24]

Are you able to attach any jpeg photos? Maybe a glitch on the forum? Very odd

 

[marconi]

I think you should be able to open this attachment.

 

[Yonny24]

Hi Marconi,

Hope this works as I've been unable to upload any more photos which is odd. Maybe a limitation on my account? Used an image sharing site for these.
Think I will need to draw a diagram as its such a mess in here. Put some tape around a couple of cables just to label them

 

[Yonny24]

I'll get a drawing to you later once I have a moment to remove the plastic panel cover to check again. In the meantime I've set up a nice automation server on a docker. Some scripting with the sensors and works brilliantly. So many options here.

 

[Yonny24]

Hi Marconi.

I believe this is how they have wired it. 2 of the UFH zones are tiny (1m2) bathrooms so use very little. Not 100% on the middle UFH but looks like they share the same cables.

 

[marconi]

Hello. What I cannot gauge from the photos is how much space is available on the DIN rail to clip on new double pole contactors. The space available for the new ones determines how many separately controlled zones can be configured. Could you have a gander and tell me please?

 

[Yonny24]

If I remove the old timer on the left and move the cbs to the left I have about 22/23 cm to play with. Would like to have the one power meter in there (about 1cm wide) measuring all the kWh used by all the combined UFH zones. Good up to 40amps.

I'd be happy if I could just separate the last 2 UFH zones on the right.

Many thanks

 

[marconi]

I'll think about it tomorrow.

 

[marconi]

A standard DIN module is 17.5mm wide. So with two power meters that is 35mm - one for L1 and one for L2. Which leaves 220-35 = 185mm

A double pole 20A ABB contactor is a standard DIN module -the spec says 18mm. So you could fit in up to 10 of them.

ABB ESB20-20N-01 - https://new.abb.com/products/1SBE121111R0120/esb20-20n-01-installation-contactor

Could you have a think about how you want the zones arranged knowing that you have room for circa 12 standard DIN modules - and do you want a power meter for each zone?