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Discuss Changing original 32Amp contactors for solid state relays? in the Electric Underfloor Heating Wiring area at ElectriciansForums.net

A standard DIN module is 17.5mm wide. So with two power meters that is 35mm - one for L1 and one for L2. Which leaves 220-35 = 185mm

A double pole 20A ABB contactor is a standard DIN module -the spec says 18mm. So you could fit in up to 10 of them.

ABB ESB20-20N-01 - https://new.abb.com/products/1SBE121111R0120/esb20-20n-01-installation-contactor

Could you have a think about how you want the zones arranged knowing that you have room for circa 12 standard DIN modules - and do you want a power meter for each zone?

Hi Marconi,

I will visit my local home department store to see what they have available in terms of contactors first. We don't always have a wide selection of products and can be pricey.

I should be able to fit a new neutral cable into one or 2 of the rooms as you mentioned earlier to separate the 2 bedrooms but the rooms further away could be problematic if I need to fit more cables. I've had issues trying to get my fishline down some of the conduits. Quite a spaghetti junction! Took me 2 days to get the cat6 from my office down to the living room!

I'll get back to you.
Thanks very much for all your time on this.
 
Sorry been absent for a while. Worries with work and the pandemic etc.
Been difficult to find suitable contactors at a reasonable price. Found some 4 pole contactors. Shouldn't be any issue swapping 2 x 2 pole contactors for 1 x 4 pole should it? 2 live and 2 neutral inputs and outputs. Each 2 pole is only drawing about 10 amps. The 4 pole is a a 40amp.

Thanks
 
The 4 pole sounds fine. If you send me its details I will give it the once over.

:)

I believe it is the same one as this:


Many thanks

Was going to leave it for this year but the buzzing from the downstairs is really quite annoying now as we have the heating on more frequently as winter is approaching here in the Southern Hemisphere.
 
At first blush they look rather cheap and cheerful. Here is a proposal: I will send you some ABB silent relays and perhaps you will make a donation to a children's charity in Uruguay akin to the UK's NSPCC - what say you?

Wow really appreciate the offer. Very kind of you indeed.

Unfortunately, the customs rules here are very strict and could end up paying a fortune in taxes and import duty fees requiring proof of purchase etc. List goes on of extra costs on top of the 60% tax.
This is why even cheap chinese goods are expensive here.

I'll probably just go for this model and try one first.

Kind regards
 
I understand. I will do some research tomorrow morning over a coffee. At 10 A and rated at 40 A they are most likely suitable - but I thought you wanted quiet contactors(*)

I, and maybe many others, have a bit of a downer on Chinese products at the moment if that is where this contactor is from. I find Italian made stuff good value - but then I have Italian ancestry with the surname 'Solari' - so I may be biased ;-)

* - We could try to be clever and put good but noisy contactors inside soundproofed enclosures? I'll have a look at materials and ways to attenuate the annoying hum. At first pass I wonder about some lead and rubber combination.
 
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Yes I would prefer fairly quiet contactors. Not sure how much noise these would make tbh.

One out of the 3 downstairs is really buzzing loudly (the buzzing varies from day to day, from quite loud to a sound like its vibrating out of the module box), obviously not very well.

As you know the one upstairs is a 4 pole ABB and you cannot hear it at all. Super silent.

I have asked the supplier how much noise they produce.
Update: He's just replied and said they are not quiet.
[automerge]1591897472[/automerge]
oh look in this moment new models have appeared online.

Steck



 
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Remember to switch off all the electricity and check everything is dead before you work on the swap. Label up the wiring too so the pairs are identifiable and recorded somehow near the contactor. Last, all connections must be tight and use all the strands of the conductors without any of them showing outside the entry to the terminal channel. Then it will nearly be as good a job as done by DPG ( :) ) - but only nearly so don't get carried away. Let us know how you get on - pictures are always good if you want your work checked and assessed.
 
Remember to switch off all the electricity and check everything is dead before you work on the swap. Label up the wiring too so the pairs are identifiable and recorded somehow near the contactor. Last, all connections must be tight and use all the strands of the conductors without any of them showing outside the entry to the terminal channel. Then it will nearly be as good a job as done by DPG ( :) ) - but only nearly so don't get carried away. Let us know how you get on - pictures are always good if you want your work checked and assessed.
Thanks will do.

Just purchased 3 of them. Got some 4mm wiring also to replace the 2 x 2mm wiring.
One of the 3 old ones was vibrating so much this morning I had to turn it off as my son was having a zoom school class and was interfering with his class! (home schooling still continuing here in Uruguay)
 
The UFH heating is cleverly connected across L1, L2 and N as shown in the diagram below. The black bar above the 5 cbs confused me; the voltage measurements clarified the situation.

Sometime please tell me L1 to L2 voltage. I am pretty sure you have a 3 phase supply arranged as I have drawn.

Otherwise I would swap the contactors for silent ones. Solid state switches can fail short-circuit which would not be a good thing so don't fit them. They also need substantial heatsinks and ventilation around these because they would get too hot without. If it was me I'd buy silent contactors. The three sets of UFH are each protected by a 20A cb. A 32A contactor is beefy enough to carry up to 20A 'all day long' and be more reliable than one rated close to 20A. Space the power meters and contactors apart so that there is some air movement and one does not warm the other.

Thank you for your patience!

:)

Marconi


Hi Marconi,

Hope you are well.

Just revisiting this topic. Everything is running fine but had a doubt about the type of phase we have. The utility company changed our meter this week with a new smart meter after we had an issue with our bills after using the UFH (the clock was 4 hours out on the old meter so the cheap rates before 5pm were being calculated incorrectly!!)

From what I understood the 3 phase power set ups have 4 cables entering but single phase have only 3 (L1, L2, N).

You mentioned it was a 3 phase initially. Was it decided that this was a single phase in the end with L1, L2 and N?

Many thanks
 

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