First Domestic Wiring...

[Stuuk1]

Hi all,

Been an electrician for 10 years in industrial/commercial. Also work for 4 years in BMS.

I am buying a new property which I am going to gut and rewire while I can..

Having never wired a domestic premises before I am obviously full of questions which I hope someone can help me with.

My first question (and only question for now) is about what accessories could I install while I'm there chasing out the walls? I am going to be putting in some good quality USB chargers dotted around and some speaker cables. I'm just interested in other ideas...

Thanks!

 

[Guitarist]

The op is an industrial spark, he'll probably use tray or basket lol.

I was industrial for most of my career which is probably why I am so "belts and braces". I can't stand the idea of not having access to any cabling after installation.

 

[Spazz]

If your going to think about networking cables to each room just install a good wifi network router in the center of the house (under floor boards if needed with a hatch) that will provide enough internet signal where ever you are in the house.

When my father rebuilt his house I installed 3 wifi boosters throughout the house (7 bed house - 4 floors all stone walls inside and out - wifi signal hates it!)
We also installed a mobile booster in the center of the house and another on the wall outside as well as signal was crap outside the house not along the inside as well.

 

[Deservices]

Using oval plastic makes a bit more sense as its only 73p for a 3m length. I was under the assumption you was talking about galv 20mm conduit which you would of had to take a lot of the bricks and probly do more damage than its worth on older houses. Although I wouldn't say it makes it any more of a proper job than using capping as it gives no extra protection and with new cables its not likely to need rewiring for a very very long time. As for price I don't see why you would charge any extra for using this rather than capping as its all personal preference. Also if it was such a better job new sparks would be trained to use it which they are not. It's probly not used in general as it fully encloses the cable and gives no breathing space where with capping its only covered by one side and clipped direct which would give better heat dispersion. I might be talking rubbish. Just don't see how you can say a proper job and disrespect others work, when this is how everyone is trained to do it.

 

[trev]

Also if it was such a better job new sparks would be trained to use it which they are not.

Pyro is infinitely better than FP but are apprentices trained in that these days? Last apprentice I had contact with didn't have a clue what it was and he was nearly out of his time.

 

[NEZ2490]

Pyro is infinitely better than FP but are apprentices trained in that these days? Last apprentice I had contact with didn't have a clue what it was and he was nearly out of his time.

Pyro is a dying art it's very rare you see it on new installations nowadays unless it's an absolute requirement i.e. fuel stations etc..

 

[Stuuk1]

If your going to think about networking cables to each room just install a good wifi network router in the center of the house (under floor boards if needed with a hatch) that will provide enough internet signal where ever you are in the house.

When my father rebuilt his house I installed 3 wifi boosters throughout the house (7 bed house - 4 floors all stone walls inside and out - wifi signal hates it!)
We also installed a mobile booster in the center of the house and another on the wall outside as well as signal was crap outside the house not along the inside as well.

To install a booster, is it a case of just running a screened Ethernet cable (straight thru) from the main router to the booster in another room?

 

[Stuuk1]

Totally agree lighting can make all the differance in an installation and the possiblities are endless check out LED HUT for some outstanding lamps that will fit straight into most downlights GU10 or low voltage although i'd be tempted to go with GU10 if using an LED why have a transformer that can fail if there's no requirement.

Thanks for the tip, that site looks really good and personally can't stand the mr16 transformers popping all the time!

The LED lamps are expensive but I'm guess will pay for themselves over time..?

 

[Stuuk1]

The op is an industrial spark, he'll probably use tray or basket lol.

If only I had a false floor in the house I could do all my wiring under there on my baskets I could even install a big cable riser and rack that out with uni and baskets!

 

[Stuuk1]

Sorry for all of the replies, don't get many chances to get a look at this...

in the bathroom, can I install GU10 fittings? Even over the top of the bath or shower (obviously with correct IP ratings) or do these have to be MR16?

 

[Guitarist]

Sorry for all of the replies, don't get many chances to get a look at this...

in the bathroom, can I install GU10 fittings? Even over the top of the bath or shower (obviously with correct IP ratings) or do these have to be MR16?

Technically, if your ceiling is over 2.25M, then it's out of zones, but should still be suitable for the environment. So IPx4 minimum, unless it's likely to be sprayed, then IPx5.
Additionally, luminaires over a shower should be recessed.

Read section 701 of the BGB for all the answers.

 

[Stuuk1]

Hi again,

Still not exchanged contracts but still drumming up questions in my head!

Here is a good one...

The incommer to the house is one of those on the outside wall with a door for access.

The existing disboard is within 3 meters of that in what can only be described as a ridiculous place and not where I will be wanting the new one installed, it is directly above the front door boxed in with little cut outs for access to the main switch and the rewireable fused...

Am I able to install a double pole 100A (or whatever size the incoming head fuses are) breaker and then wire away in 25mm cabling contained in plastic copex approx 10 meters to the cupboard under the stairs? I've asked a few people and they all said 'cant see why not' but at the same time weren't sure!

The copex would be routed from this breaker (which would obviously be accessible and within 3 meters from the head) under the 1st floor floor boards to the cupboard.

Thanks in advance!