Fuse too big on fridge

[John-SJW]

A small under counter AEG fridge. Instructions say it is fitted with a 13A fuse in the plug. Also states it must be replaced by a 13A fuse. The fridge is drawing 0.32 amps. A 13A fuse is ridiculously oversized. If having a mcb or RCBO at the CU for just the fridge, a 1.00mm cable can be run on a radial for it.

The instructions do say that a qualified or competent electrician must fit the appliance, so a get out for them. If the electrician say 3A will do then that is that I suppose. Do many ignore these types of instructions and say insert a 3A fuse in the plug? Safer.

 

[i=p/u]

All about discrimination...

 

[John-SJW]

Different issue completely. That's a bad connection. I've also seen damage at the connections of 13A sockets due to loose connections.

Are you saying washers and dryers shouldn't be connected via 13A plugs and sockets ???

If they are heavy use...no. My dryer is on an FCU. The connection behind the dryer is on Wagos, which gives a better contact than screwed terminals. Screwed can also work loose over time. The Wagos also give a quick disconnect in case of appliance replacement. The appliance is on its own radial with its own RCBO.

 

[DPG]

If they are heavy use...no. My dryer is on an FCU. The connection behind the dryer is on Wagos, which gives a better contact than screwed terminals. Screwed can also work loose over time. The Wagos also give a quick disconnect in case of appliance replacement. The appliance is on its own radial with its own RCBO.

There is no issue with a dryer being plugged into a 13A socket.

Yes, if there is a loose connection, or a cheap brand socket is used then there could be problems. But you can say that about anything. There could be a loose connection at the screw terminals of the RCBO.

 

[John-SJW]

There is no issue with a dryer being plugged into a 13A socket.

Yes, if there is a loose connection, or a cheap brand socket is used then there could be problems. But you can say that about anything. There could be a loose connection at the screw terminals of the RCBO.

People I know with a large family. The dryer was hardly ever off. I looked at the plug and socket seeing brown marks. I fitted an FCU then to a box with Wagos inside with dryer cable running into the box - for easy disconnect, as I could see frequent appliance changes. That was five years ago. No brown marks to be seen.

Someone who uses a dryer once or twice a week for 45 mins a time, then it will probably be fine. Heavy use? A 13A plug? Think again.

 

[John-SJW]

Wago are introducing these types of connector boxes these days. Not sure how small they make them. Ideal for behind fitted appliances.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

The connection behind the dryer is on Wagos, which gives a better contact than screwed terminals.

I might explore this quite wide-ranging assertion in another thread when I have more time.

 

[westward10]

13A FCUs aren't much better than a plug these days. This example I replaced this week with a 20A DP switch after a maintenance company had replaced it three times this year with a FCU, supplies a ceiling heater and this wasn't poor connections. It is welded in the on position.

 

[John-SJW]

I might explore this quite wide-ranging assertion in another thread when I have more time.

Lots on Efixx Youtube site. The claim is they, Wago, etc, do not work loose, also give a better connection as it grips the conductor all around, not just top and bottom.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=efixx+wago

 

[DPG]

13A FCUs aren't much better than a plug these days. This example I replaced this week with a 20A DP switch after a maintenance company had replaced it three times this year with a FCU, supplies a ceiling heater and this wasn't looView attachment 86165se connections.

Exactly. The same bad connection could just as likely be at an FCU as the plug.

 

[John-SJW]

13A FCUs aren't much better than a plug these days. This example I replaced this week with a 20A DP switch after a maintenance company had replaced it three times this year with a FCU, supplies a ceiling heater and this wasn't poor connections. It is welded in the on position. View attachment 86165

What maker?

 

[i=p/u]

But youl find if these items say they are good for 13A they should be.. cheap sh it with no real testing I'd guess

 

[John-SJW]

13A FCUs aren't much better than a plug these days. This example I replaced this week with a 20A DP switch after a maintenance company had replaced it three times this year with a FCU, supplies a ceiling heater and this wasn't poor connections. It is welded in the on position. View attachment 86165

How about a DP mcb in a box as an isolator.

 

[John-SJW]

13A FCUs aren't much better than a plug these days. This example I replaced this week with a 20A DP switch after a maintenance company had replaced it three times this year with a FCU, supplies a ceiling heater and this wasn't poor connections. It is welded in the on position. View attachment 86165

I came across an oven and induction hob with flash looking chrome isolators on the worktop. The tenant was using the isolators as the on-off switchs, sometimes switching when large currents are being drawn. The contacts were burning out. It was a flat with luckily both appliances having their own mcb's at the CU. I removed the isolators, connecting the cables using Wagos then fitted chrome blanking plates over. Danger gone.

 

[DPG]

I came across an oven and induction hob with flash looking chrome isolators on the worktop. The tenant was using the isolators as the on-off switchs, sometimes switching when large currents are being drawn. The contacts were burning out. It was a flat with luckily both appliances having their own mcb's at the CU. I removed the isolators, connecting the cables using Wagos then fitted chrome blanking plates over. Danger gone.

Am I missing something here? You removed the local isolation for a cooking appliance? So if something happens and they need to isolate in an emergency, they have to go back to the consumer unit and switch the MCB off. And find the right MCB and hopefully not knock the lights off by mistake.

I'd have been educating the customer on using it as an isolator, not an operational switch.

 

[John-SJW]

Am I missing something here? You removed the local isolation for a cooking appliance? So if something happens and they need to isolate in an emergency, they have to go back to the consumer unit and switch the MCB off. And find the right MCB and hopefully not knock the lights off by mistake.

I'd have been educating the customer on using it as an isolator, not an operational switch.

The CU was well and clearly labelled. Customer was told if a problem go to the CU which was in the hall at face level. All easy to get to. But danger gone.

I have seen local isolators in adjacent cupboards, which the customer never knew were there as the corn flakes blocked the view. In rented properties with constant new tenants, safety is paramount. Many forget what you tell them the next day. Reduce switches and any weak points. Keep all well labelled.