Halogen Light | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

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Just put a self tapper in, for the money I would go armed with a replacement lamp. By the time you buy the tube.............

Talking about terminology ; I should of said filament lol.
 
In theatre lighting where a lot of of 300 & 500W linear halogens are / were used for cyc lighting, dead or intermittent lamps due to burnt out end contacts were so common that they possibly outnumbered actual blown lamps. The usual fix was to scrub the lampholder pins with a glassfibre pencil and replace the lamp - just relamping might 'appear' to fix it but if you didn't clean the contacts, the new one would soon start arcing and flickering. But these holders had much better springs that would last in a way that a cheap fitting doesn't, hence the advice to just swap it out.
 
As already mentioned these fittings are TAT. Will the customer pay for a LED floodlight?

She was happy to pay ÂŁ12 for a 10w model, but I'm not sure this would be bright enough - it's not to light a path only, it needs to light the back garden too. I explained that a 30w model which should be comparable to the 400w halogen she has now will cost about ÂŁ35, and that got the thumbs down.

To be fair though, even if she only gets another 2 years out of one of these halogen ones, it's a fiver.
 
She was happy to pay ÂŁ12 for a 10w model, but I'm not sure this would be bright enough - it's not to light a path only, it needs to light the back garden too. I explained that a 30w model which should be comparable to the 400w halogen she has now will cost about ÂŁ35, and that got the thumbs down.

To be fair though, even if she only gets another 2 years out of one of these halogen ones, it's a fiver.


Stick with halogen in that case then. Just put a bit of silicone over the screws :wink:
 
Yes , and it is still there, but gone the way of all flesh.

It was a busy rich club in it's day. It could be rough from time to time, mainly opening till closing.
 

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