E

electromonkey

Just after some advice/opinions really gents,

I completed a rewire last week of a small bungalow. When I went to quote for the job, the customer said that the kitchen had been re wired when a new kitchen had been installed and that it was on its own circuit so I didn't need to include it on the quote.

On starting the job, I found that all was not well and informed the customer. On my last day of the job, the electrician who wired the kitchen turned up with his invoice and cert for the work he his firm had carried out. A heated debate then started over the following points....

1 No earth bonding to the gas or water supplies and the mains earth was also insufficient.

2 The kitchen had been wired as a radial circuit.

3 The origin of the new radial circuit cam via a 30a JB that was already connected to the original ring, with a spur already running from it.

4 There were sockets installed in cupboards below the work tops with no isolator switches.

5 The work was carried out on a MWC

When the customer asked me to take the electrician from the other firm through the list, he believed he had done nothing wrong as he had told the customer that the bonding was required as he was working on the job but they didn't want to pay for the work and that the work he carried out only required a MWC. He also claimed that the radial circuit (which has an oven, washing machine, microwave, kettle, toaster and deep fat fryer plus others) was acceptable and ok run via a spur hence his MWC!

My interpretation of it is that points 2 and 3 are definite no nos.

With point one, I don't know if this is because of years of standard working practice for me but I was under the impression that when you carry out any work that requires any certification, all earthing to the gas, water and mains must be brought to standard. If when you quote for a job and the customer asks for the bonding not to be done then you don't carry out any work, if you forget to quote for this when pricing a job then tell the customer, if the customer refuses to pay, you still have to carry out the work and take the hit. Am I correct with this or not?

Finally, with point 4, I see this quite regularly and the argument always seems to come down to interpretation over what is and isn't accessible. For me personally, If I install any socket or outlet in to a kitchen cupboard, I always install an isolator switch for it.

Your thoughts on this would be appreciated. At present, my customer is refusing to pay for the work carried out in their kitchen based on what I have told them. Obviously if I'm wrong on any of these points, I need to let my customer know.

Cheers.
 
i agree with you 100%. only possible issue is point 4. if the sockets are readily accessible, there may be an argument for not fitting additional isolation. but that is not the main issue. your other points are spot on.
 
Job sounds like a real badden...kitchen fitter style..

Anyhow just a pointer on number 2. I do not use radials in kitchens but they aren't entirely big no no's.

If you split the load across 2 radials it would be fine. Less economical than a riong but there is nothing against doing it!
 
He's a bloody plumber with a defined scope ticket, hance why he's tried to put it all on a minor.

Is this 'radial' run off a spur in 2.5mm? You don't mention any fusing on this either? If it's on 2.5 with no <20A protection then it needs to come off. Personally I would tell the customer it all needs to be completelt re done.

Bonding HAS to be in place.

Isolation switches aren't mandatory but it's good practice to use them.
 
Ive almost given up here.

im very clever on paper....

in real life im bloody useless.




my brother is a tree surgeon. he could hardly read and write when he left school.

He is now married to a millionares daughter.



there is hope.
 
I doubt youre bloody useless. I do think you need to proactively try and get out of the job you're in at the moment; I think you're like me, don't understand and don't give a ---- about 'office politics' and you probably have issues with having a boss who's as thick as two short ones. Maybe not the best time to think about starting up on your own in some capacity, but I've been in jobs that made me miserable and I prefer an every day struggle for something that's mine.
 
Cheers for the replies.

Rocker, I didn't mention the size of breakers etc as it wasn't that relevant as there was such a balls up of a job. FYI The radial circuit was spurred from a JB on the existing ring which was run on a 30 amp fuse. I think there was a total of 8 points on the circuit they had installed so effectively that meant that each of the spurs were a spur from a spur. The stupid thing is, it only took me an hour to find the end of the circuit, take it back to the board, remove the connection from the JB and take that back to the board making it a ring!

Electricalserv, I hear what you're saying on the radial front as it is entirely dependant, like any other circuit, on what loads will be applied to it. In this case, I think it would be fair to assume that in this particular kitchen that all the appliances I'd listed above could be all on at the same time at some point and would be too much for that particular circuit.

Obviously SMB, I have done the bonding but I wanted to be sure that the guys who had put the kitchen electrics in, despite them informing the customer, if they had to take ownership of the bonding as I had thought.

I hate the accessibility part of the regs. How many times have any of you tried to get to a socket located in a kitchen cupboard and have had to move dozens of tins, jars bottles etc? I'd class that as inaccessible hence why I always install an isolator.
 
OK so do you now have the 'radial turned into a ring, or at least run on it's own <20A circuit from the board?

I would say that 1 or even 2 2.5mm radials for that kitchen is never going to work.
 
Cheers for the replies.
I hate the accessibility part of the regs. How many times have any of you tried to get to a socket located in a kitchen cupboard and have had to move dozens of tins, jars bottles etc? I'd class that as inaccessible hence why I always install an isolator.

Totally agree with you here, 9 times out of 10 this is exactly the case. Even worse is when the s/outlets and C/units are at the back of the cupboards, and only accessible through a cut-out made in the back board.... Accessible nonsense!!

Most of these crazy s/outlet and c/unit etc locations are down to the clients themselves, wanting this modern minimalist look kitchen. Unfortunately for them, Kitchen are working areas that need to be functional as well as looking the business!! Most of these dozy women end up wishing they had never gone down that minimalist route, ....but then it's always too late!! Hopefully they will have learnt there lesson by the time they next have a new kitchen installed!! ...lol!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
wish mine was a bit more minimalistic. kitchen is full of hoarded stuff that get's used maybe once every coronation.
 
@ SMB, However you like to interpret it, you are in a public forum and really should not go out of your way to offend others as the rules clearly state.

It might be wise of you to edit those posts before the mods do.
 
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