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Slip Ring or Wound Rotor Motors

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I’ve had a love / hate relationship with these motors for years. Maintenance of the brush-gear is a pain to any maintenance department. Overlook or ignore it and it comes back and bites you. Excessive carbon dust can cause flashover on start up. On initial start up the voltage on the rings is at it’s maximum (some motors I’ve worked on could have up to 3KV between them). Carbon dust will find it’s way in to any little crevice, let it build up enough and you can expect an explosion. The first picture shows a basic set up, the left side shows a “standard” brush box, the right a constant force box. The second picture shows a practical set up. The constant force box uses a spring similar to the ones used for cable earthing but in this case they are trying to un-coil.

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The slip ring or wound rotor motor is an induction machine where the rotor comprises a set of coils that are terminated in sliprings to which external impedances can be connected. The stator is the same as is used with a standard squirrel cage motor.
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By changing the impedance connected to the rotor circuit, the speed/current and speed/torque curves can be altered.

The slip ring motor is used primarily to start a high inertia load or a load that requires a very high starting torque across the full speed range. By correctly selecting the resistors used in the secondary resistance or slip ring starter, the motor is able to produce maximum torque at a relatively low current from zero speed to full speed. A secondary use of the slip ring motor, is to provide a means of speed control. Because the torque curve of the motor is effectively modified by the resistance connected to the rotor circuit, the speed of the motor can be altered. Increasing the value of resistance on the rotor circuit will move the speed of maximum torque down. If the resistance connected to the rotor is increased beyond the point where the maximum torque occurs at zero speed, the torque will be further reduced.
When used with a load that has a torque curve that increases with speed, the motor will operate at the speed where the torque developed by the motor is equal to the load torque. Reducing the lad will cause the motor to speed up, and increasing the load will cause the motor to slow down until the load and motor torque are equal. Operated in this manner, the slip losses are dissipated in the secondary resistors and can be very significant. The speed regulation is also very poor.

Motor Characteristics.

The Slip Ring motor has two distinctly separate parts, the stator and the rotor. The stator circuit is rated as with a standard squirrel cage motor and the rotor is rated in frame voltage and short circuit current. The frame voltage is the open circuit voltage when the rotor is not rotating and gives a measure of the turns ratio between the rotor and the stator. The short circuit current is the current flowing when the motor is operating at full speed with the slip rings (rotor) shorted and full load is applied to the motor shaft.

Secondary Resistance Starters.

The secondary resistance starter comprises a contactor to switch the stator and a series of resistors that are applied to the rotor circuit and gradually reduced in value as the motor accelerates to full speed. The rotor would normally be shorted out once the motor is at full speed. The resistor values are selected to provide the torque profile required and are sized to dissipate the slip power during start. The secondary resistors can be metallic resistors such as wound resistors, plate resistors or cast resistors.

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Or they can be liquid resistors made up of saline solution or caustic soda or similar, provided there is sufficient thermal mass to absorb the total slip loss during start.

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I worked on the same type of liquid starter shown in the photograph. They were obsolete and costing a fortune to have final contacts made for them. £2500 for a set of contacts was a bit OTT, so I came up with this idea, standard Telemecanique 315A contactors working at 1.7X their normal rated voltage. The final contact in the original design were slow making so at 1250A they didn’t last long, with my set up the contacts were high speed and so didn’t get eroded. The final load current dropped from 400A+ to 150A @11KV.

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To select the values of the resistors, you need to know the frame voltage and the short circuit current. The maximum torque occurs approximately at the point where the rotor reactance equals the termination resistance. The final stage of the resistance should always be designed for a maximum torque close to full speed to prevent a very large step in current when shorting the final stage of resistance. If a single stage was used and the maximum torque occurred at 50% speed, then motor may accelerate to 60% speed, depending on the load. If the rotor was shorted at this speed, the motor would draw a very high current (typically around 1400% FLC) and produce very little torque, and would most probably stall!


High Inertia Loads

Slip ring motors are commonly used on high inertia loads because of their superior start efficiencies and their ability to withstand the inertia of the loads
When a load is started, the full speed kinetic energy of that load is dissipated in the rotor circuit. With a standard cage type induction motor, there only some motors that can be used on high inertia loads. Most will suffer rotor damage due to the power dissipated by the rotor. With the slip ring motor, the secondary resistors can be selected to provide the optimum torque curves and they can be sized to withstand the load energy without failure.
Starting a high inertia load with a standard cage motor would require between 400% and 550% start current for up to 60 seconds. Starting the same machine with a wound rotor motor (slip ring motor) would require around 200% current for around 20 seconds. A much more efficient solution.
Shorting the rings out on a slip ring motor with a high inertia load is not an option as the load energy must be dissipated in the rotor winding during start. This will cause insulation failure in the rotor circuit.

Now this is my idea of a resonable sized motor

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Tony's posts always make good reading, he really knows his stuff. Any apprentices out there in the industrial field could do a lot worse than read through a lot of his posts. i know a few of mine have.

Cheers.......Howard
 
Motor bearings

Before I start on this I want to know who would be interested in motor bearings.

Glennispark is willing to help on this subject, between us I think we’ve well over 60 years of experience to hand, hopefully others will add to the pool.

Please say Yay or Ney as it does take time to do drawings to make things clear.
 
Re: Motor bearings

Before I start on this I want to know who would be interested in motor bearings.

Glennispark is willing to help on this subject, between us I think we’ve well over 60 years of experience to hand, hopefully others will add to the pool.

Please say Yay or Ney as it does take time to do drawings to make things clear.

I would really appreciate a post on bearings, if you can afford the time.
 
Re: Motor bearings

Before I start on this I want to know who would be interested in motor bearings.

Glennispark is willing to help on this subject, between us I think we’ve well over 60 years of experience to hand, hopefully others will add to the pool.

Please say Yay or Ney as it does take time to do drawings to make things clear.

id like to learn more about the effects of VSD's on bearings, and common solutions ect. I think Marvo has mentioned that hes encountered this problem before.
I along with others appreciate the time taken to write these threads.
 
Give me a week or so and I’m sure with a bit of help it will get done.
Circulating rotor currents isn’t something I hadn’t considered for the post, but it’s an important thing to take in to consideration. They’ve caused me enough problems in the past so I should have thought of it!
 
Bearing problems.

Right I started to write a piece about changing bearings, but then thought, hang on there’s got to be a reason to change them in the first place. Sounds logical to me anyway.

Lubrication:

Oil, used for small motors with phosphor/bronze sleeve or journal bearing for very large motors. Some large motors will have white metal as the running material. The only thing to say really is to follow the makers instructions as to the oil grade to be used. I’ve come across some weird specifications in the past. Two motors spring to mind each 2500HP, the recommended oil was B44 transformer oil? (Don’t ask me why, but they had been running happily 24/7 for 20 years). Even bigger motors may have oil lubricated bearing with water-cooled jackets around the bearings. One thing to watch for with large sleeve bearings is the oil thrower/pick up rings wearing through. Your quite happily keeping the oil level correct but it’s going nowhere and doing nothing!
You may notice on this drawing the shaft has no shoulder on the shaft to locate it. When a large motor is first run the bolts are left out of the coupling, this allows the motor shaft to find it’s magnetic centre. Once the centre is found the coupling is assembled with spacers to hold the shaft in position.

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Grease, here we go for the first argument. Some motor manufactures will claim maintenance free bearings. Yeh right, so why the hell am I mauling my nuts off changing this motor?
Grease is oil held in a suspension medium. There are 1000’s of grades each with it’s own bit of magic. (The one thing I do know is the moment I go near it I get covered in the bloody stuff)!

If grease nipples are fitted to a motor then a shot of grease every 3 to 6 months won’t go amiss, but use your judgment as to how much. Big bearings 2 or 3 shots, small, ½ a shot. Over greasing is as big a killer as no grease at all. The grease needs room to move about in the bearing, too little and it gets pushed out of the bearing, too much and it clogs in the races, over heats and fries it’s self. 2/3[SUP]rds [/SUP]full is the usual recommended amount, but again go by the manufacturers recommendations.

(This may amuse you, going back years we had an old guy going around the plant doing nothing other than lubrication. He had a schedule to follow but was a bit over enthusiastic. One shot every 3 months became 2 a week. I got called to a motor that was tripping on overload, opened the terminal box and it was full of grease. The entire motor was full. Motors, fans, pumps, conveyors nothing escaped Juffy! So much for preventative maintenance, he must have cost us tens of thousands)!

I’ve done two drawings the first shows a standard set up with ball and roller bearings. The second is a foundry motor, where each bearing is in a separate cassette. Not the easiest to strip down.

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Some great info there Tony,top man.
You have a very good way of explaining things,clearly cos you've done the job not just read about it in a text book!
 
hi guys,
i am on training in a textile industry, i was given an induction motor 1400 rpm and asked to prescribe a capacitor for it, problem doing so, need help :nonod:
 
Star Delta closed transition

A closed transition star delta avoids the jolt and current peak at the point of change over. The resistors have to be quite substantial, ones I worked one they would fill a small wardrobe. OK they were 800HP. At one point the star contactor shorts the phases but the resistors keep this under control.

Start
Main and star contactors 1 and 4 close.
Time delay (running up to speed)
Transition contactor 3 closes
Small time delay
Star contactor 4 opens
Small time delay
Delta contactor 2 closes
Small time delay
Transition contactor 3 opens
Running

There’s a fair few timers involved. T5 in this diagram is a watchdog to ensure the motor is running in delta within time. R3/4/5 were for our process controller. I’ve had to split the diagram to get it on the forum.

1 Main contactor
2 Delta contactor
3 Transition contactor
4 Star contactor
5 Overload
6 Resistor over temp
7 Lockout reset P/B
T1 Close transition timer
T2 Open star timer
T3 Close delta timer
T4 Open transition timer
T5 Sequence failure timer (lockout)
R1 O/L, interlocks & stops OK (PC)
R2 Control relay
R3 Drive ready (PC)
R4 Drive starting (PC)
R5 Drive running (PC)

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Open Transition star delta

An open transition star delta has the disadvantage of the jolt and current peak at the point of change over.
To be honest I don’t like these starters, but I’ve been lucky in that the places I’ve worked in that motors up to 300HP would be started DOL

Start
Main and star contactors 1 and 3 close.
Time delay (running up to speed)
Star contactor 3 opens
Small time delay
Delta contactor 2 closes
Running

I’ve shown two timers but single proprietary units are available.

1 Main contactor
2 Delta contactor
3 Star contactor
4 Overload
T1 Open star timer
T2 Close delta timer

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Motor testing

One thing before testing a motor is check the mechanical loading. I’ve had many an argument with fitters who insist the gearbox or what ever is free.
A classic being “Jock” (fitter) insisting the Radicon gearbox was free. I was doing pull ups on a set of 18” stillsons trying to turn the motor shaft. Jock insisted it was an electrical problem, fortunately the manager showed up before we came to blows.
In a production environment you will discover everything is an electrical fault. The conveyor motor won’t run, it’s got nothing to do with the tonnes of spillage burying it.

Bearings:
If the motor is still running use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the bearings. Place the blade of the driver on the bearing housing or the motor end bell and put your ear against the end of the handle. A rumbling noise tells you all is not well. You can try a few shots of grease, if that doesn’t quieten it down then it’s time to get the spanners out. With the motor stopped place a bar under the shaft and see if there is any “lift” in the bearing. With roller or ball bearings you shouldn’t be able to detect any. Sleeve bearings you may get a slight amount, I’m sorry but this is one where there’s no definite answer, experience is needed with them.

Electrical tests:
I was taught to use twice the terminal voltage for IR tests but some don’t agree with this. As for minimum values I use the M&Q test method. Where leakage current should not exceed 1/10,000[SUP]th[/SUP] of the FLC. This then takes in to account that a large motor has a lot more windings than a small one and therefore a higher leakage current. With a motor that’s been in service you can’t expect to be getting infinity readings.

A motor with an internally connected star point there’s only limited tests you can do. But there again they are cheap enough to be more or less disposable.
IR test:
Due to the internal star connection you can only test the windings to earth.
CR tests:
A to B, B to C, C to A. Compare each of the three readings, they should be within a few % of each other.

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A motor with six terminals whether it’s connected star of delta can be tested the same way.
IR tests:
With the links still connected test to earth. With the links in one test covers all the windings.
Remove the links and test A1 to B1, B1 to C1, C1 to A1. This checks the insulation between the individual windings.
CR tests:
A1 to A2, B1 to B2, C1 to C2. Compare each of the three readings, they should be within a few % of each other.

If the motor tests OK then it’s time to look at the starter, isolator and supply cables.
 
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Single Phase Motors

I’ve not done a lot of work with single phase motors, so this will be fairly basic.

The stator will have two windings. Start and run set at 90° to each other, start will have a capacitor in series with it to cause a phase shift.

Capacitor start.
During starting both windings are used, nearing full speed the start winding is disconnected leaving just the run winding in circuit.

Capacitor start / Capacitor run.
During starting both windings are used, but with this type there are two capacitors in a series / parallel network. Nearing full speed the one of the capacitors is disconnected. Leaving just one in series with the start winding.

Disconnection is done by either a centrifugal switch or a timer. Both methods gave disadvantages. The centrifugal switch is prone to jamming either open or closed and dirty contacts. The timer being remote from the motor doesn’t know if the motor is up to speed or not.

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