Showers

so he's paying circa £350 -400 for a CU and won't pay an extra £50 -60 for a pull cord. tight fisted muppet.

Can't remember the last time i got £350 -400 for fitting a CU in my neck of the woods. Some sparkies around here are fitting them for £200-250, but they are using the cheap stuff.
 
My recommendation SW is to be very professional with your customer and lecture him or her about the merit of a shower pull cord switch, it is almost unbelievable customers will cut corners, however as Murdoch pointed out in an earlier post, I would mention it on the EIC certificate or report, whatever you give them.
 
This has always been a grey area. Normally finding a shower without an isolator/ mechanical switch while on an EICR i will put a C3 code against in for lack of local point of isolation.
Unclear if an isolation switch is present if it needs to be D.P or not if it is on a TN system.
 
Doesn't need to Be Double pole at all your right rattlehead, only on a TT system, however as mentioned earlier the regs can be an ---.
 
most showers will have in their instructions that it has to be supplied via a D/P switch with 3mm contact separation.
 
Doesn't need to Be Double pole at all your right rattlehead, only on a TT system, however as mentioned earlier the regs can be an ---.

May not need to be DP but when you get nuisance tripping on the RCD the DP isolation will come in handy!
 
My recommendation SW is to be very professional with your customer and lecture him or her about the merit of a shower pull cord switch, it is almost unbelievable customers will cut corners, however as Murdoch pointed out in an earlier post, I would mention it on the EIC certificate or report, whatever you give them.

I have done that, just annoyed with my self for missing it in the first place. I like to get things right 1st time, as adding later makes you look unprofessional, and in the customers eyes can be viewed as quoting cheap to get the job and then wacking the extras on later. I certainly don't like that being done to me when i get work done. If i go with a quote for a job, then that is the price i want to pay, not more. I do try and cover myself for the hidden problems, by stating major problems will incurr additional costs at an hourly rate, but most people question it, because it means that the price isn't fixed. I have lost a couple of jobs through this problem, but i think then that the customer probably wasn't worth the aggro.
 
I'd never disagree with you on this fella, never your right, hence the regs being an --- haha

Regs are definitely an ---.

Whether it be indoor fixed appliances or outdoor sockets / lights / sub mains to sheds ir garages I fit DP isolators 90+% of the time
 
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I'd never disagree with you on this fella, never your right, hence the regs being an --- haha

Regs are definitely an ---.

Whether it be indoor fixed appliances or outdoor sockets / lights / sub mains to sheds ir garages I fit DP isolators 90+% of the time
Yeah definately the best option as well as making things easier when fault finding.
 
My recommendation SW is to be very professional with your customer and lecture him or her ......

I suspect this is the way to lose the job. If someone stars lecturing me (other than in a classroom) they're shown the door!

Advising or recommending is the professional way to go. :)
 
Dear oh Dear your the professional they put their trust in, IMO you may as well get bob from the pub to do the job for you if you haven't the go in you to be confident with your customers, I have so many I cannot cope with the work I get, I'm not saying you need to be rude, but they need to feel confident in your ability, whatever haha
 
T & O/T - yer just a pair of old synics! I don't disagree that what your're describing exists, just that we don't know sfa about the customer or his/her financial position. Although, if it's a male of advanced years living in Auld Reekie, your probably right:tongue3:.


Listen up chuchie I went to look at a job where his and her cars were sitting outside £25k &£15k he then proceeded to get me to fix his outside light on the premise of quoting to fix another. Sent him a quote of £110 and he said na no thanks I am off to Africa for a month on safari for my 70th 6 months laater called to say that light you fixed has went out again I replied ok it will be a callout charge he then said na dont bother . Isolated incident emm no people have different priorities and I have no problem with that years ago they would scream blue murder WHAT £60 ARE YOU MAD I AM NOT MADE OF MONEY whilst the mobile valet company was outside cleaning the car .

Some people will just not pay so fine ya Weegie lol

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i find it's generally those wo have the money/posh houses/cars/etc. that are the worst payers. many a time i've quoted working class families and have been asked if i want money up front for materials, and when job is done, cash on the nail, no problems.

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i find it's generally those wo have the money/posh houses/cars/etc. that are the worst payers. many a time i've quoted working class families and have been asked if i want money up front for materials, and when job is done, cash on the nail, no problems.
 
Where in the regs does it state that an electric shower requires individual dp isolation, ie a 50A pullcord. The circuit is protected by DP 30mA 63A RCD and 40A SP MCB at the main board.

Reason for asking, i fitted new CU (due to fire damage) and done away with the separate RCD that had been fitted next to the old board. But when testing i realised that there wasn't a pullcord isolator. If i was fitting from new, i would definately install one.

I can't find anything that states this is absolutely necessary, other than for local isolation for maintenance purposes.

Can anyone clarify.

Thanks

There is no Regulation requiring this.
Though as some have posted, it will be in the installation instructions for the shower.
Along with not using Re-wireable fuses, supplementary bonding and providing RCD protection.
 

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