Tails into metal switch fuse

[Gazthesparky]

I've got a job where I'm running a Swa sub main to a 17th edition board. I've got to put a switchfuse by the meter and I'm intending to run tails from the meter into it.

Previously I've put a male bush and locknut in the bottom and run the tails into that but I'm after other ideas that give strain relief.

I've seen the wiska tails stuffing gland but it's expensive at about 20 quid a pop

Any other ideas ? Suggestions

Cheers

 

[Gazthesparky]

Trying to understand why you went to all the effort of putting the tails into the stuffing gland, then not doing in properly in the first place. Is that the internal rubber bush around two of the tails? Do I see 4 x tails going into the isolator? Have I missed something in the thread.

It's a work in progress there's one set of 25mm tails from the meter feeding the switch fuse

Then a Swa out the bottom to the consumer unit which isn't connected yet

Out the top there's a set of 16mm tails feeding a temp board

This was done because the meter was due to be changed and I didn't want to have to break the seals again to install the switch fuse

Once the second fix is done I will remove the temp 16mm tails slide the rubber bush and stuffing gland top down and screw it tight

That's why the rubber bush isn't over all the tails

Once the jobs complete I'll post pictures of the finished job

 

[Midwest]

It's a work in progress there's one set of 25mm tails from the meter feeding the switch fuse
................................................................................................
Once the jobs complete I'll post pictures of the finished job

Apologies, been put right by R. Burns #37

 

[Midwest]

Just picked up a metal clad Hager high integrity dual RCD board. It does not have the same clasp as the other new Hager Design range, nor does it have the internal tails clamp...no provision to retrofit one either as it's just the back of the CU with no mounting points at all. Managed to order some of the Wiska M40 glands at way below trade price through somewhere I used to work so they will be holding the tails firmly instead.

If your new Hager CU is the 'Design 10', you can purchase the cable clamp (VA10MT) as an extra, it comes with the 'Design 30' as standard. What's the model/reference number for the Wiska glands, know it's called 'Sprint', but that's a massive range?

 

[Leesparkykent]

If your new Hager CU is the 'Design 10', you can purchase the cable clamp (VA10MT) as an extra, it comes with the 'Design 30' as standard. What's the model/reference number for the Wiska glands, know it's called 'Sprint', but that's a massive range?

TKE/B40 for 2x25mm and 1x16mm insert
TKE/B32 for 2x16mm and 1x16mm insert

http://www.luckinslive.com/manufact...Wiska-UK-Ltd/Brass-Tails-Kit/SPRINT-Tails-Kit

http://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/products/wiska-tke-b40-2x25mm-1x16mm-nickel-plated-brass-tail-kit

 

[NDG Elecs]

If your new Hager CU is the 'Design 10', you can purchase the cable clamp (VA10MT) as an extra, it comes with the 'Design 30' as standard. What's the model/reference number for the Wiska glands, know it's called 'Sprint', but that's a massive range?

Cheers Mid, just been looking at the Hager gumph again and I have the design 10. I stand corrected about not being able to fit the cable clamps on it. I could have got a high integrity design 30 had I known. See Lee's reply for link to the sprint tails kit. The second link is a very good price at £16 each inc vat.

 

[Midwest]

Not sure about the extra cost for the design 30. Cable clamp a good idea, but the locking lid, perhaps useful on new builds?

 

[NDG Elecs]

The design 30 looks a bit better for domestic I think. The clasp does make it look slightly less utilitarian. I don't do new builds so don't know whether Hager have created a solution or invented a hypothetical problem!!

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Aye, them the ones. Priced at £13 each. Only other place I found them was on eBay for £19. Tried three wholesalers to no avail.

It was you who brought them to my attention, so cheers mate.

I've been trying to find where to buy them! Where did you get them Gayowl?

ps.. Sorry, don't worry, I've just seen the post with a link in it.

 

[Midwest]

Trying to find the plastic sprint tails kit, for TT supply for metal CU. Can only seem to find brass ones.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Trying to find the plastic sprint tails kit, for TT supply for metal CU. Can only seem to find brass ones.

Can't seem to find them for sale on line but the product code is TKE/P40 or TKE/P32 depending if it's for 25mm or 16mm tails.



SPRINT Tails Kit | Plastic Tails Kit | Wiska UK Ltd. | Miscellaneous | Cable Terminations & Connectors | Cables & Accessories | Building Materials Supplier Prices | Trade Building Supplies Pricing | LUCKINSlive

Could send Wiska an email for their stockists.

 

[Midwest]

Just rang Wiska. Plastic Meter Tails kit (25mm x 2 & 16mm) is TKE-P-25, and will be available end of May.

 

[Gazthesparky]

Sorry its taken so long to update this thread but i have finally finished the rewire I was working on and as I stated i will post some pictures of the finished switches and board. I fitted a AM3 metal wylex board and have to say that it was very spacious and easy to terminate. one gripe I have is the flexible neutral cables they look a bit messy. I did prefer the days when wile had solid metal rod links to the neutral bar. Below are a few pictures of the completed job. I came top entry and used male and female brass bushes and lock nuts. I then sealed the holes with fire sealant

 

[drzsta]

Looks ok. Would never have bushed from 2x2 Plastic into board.
quicker to go with back plate and rear entry or 2x2 trunking Into top left corner of DB with 2" hole grommet stripped or bushed.

 

[Gazthesparky]

Looks ok. Would never have bushed from 2x2 Plastic into board.
quicker to go with back plate and rear entry or 2x2 trunking Into top left corner of DB with 2" hole grommet stripped or bushed.

That's your opinion but the trunking has cables from above and below so would have had to mounted the unit right in the corner and drilled 2 holes in the corner of the unit
Plus all the holes are already punched in the top of the unit so just have to knock them out

 

[drzsta]

Everybody has there own way, I've just adopted the fastest way of doing it. we use wylex at work and install these every other day. I don't fire seal entries either although I only make holes large enough for the cables and no more.