Tails into metal switch fuse

[Gazthesparky]

I've got a job where I'm running a Swa sub main to a 17th edition board. I've got to put a switchfuse by the meter and I'm intending to run tails from the meter into it.

Previously I've put a male bush and locknut in the bottom and run the tails into that but I'm after other ideas that give strain relief.

I've seen the wiska tails stuffing gland but it's expensive at about 20 quid a pop

Any other ideas ? Suggestions

Cheers

 

[Midwest]

I used the trunking/bush method. All top entry surface cables, used all the knockouts, and had little room left for other cables. Think I would use all the knockouts anywhere, so the CU can be added to in the future (what do I care, I hear you say). I asked my scheme on sealing remaining holes, they said 'there is no specific requirement to seal holes around cables, unless there's specific statement from the manufacture to do so (although I've seen bulletin from IET, that someone posted, suggesting you should) . Wylex are doing a pattress, so you can do rear entry with surface cables, but they don't seem to be available yet.

 

[shanky887614]

I used the trunking/bush method. All top entry surface cables, used all the knockouts, and had little room left for other cables. Think I would use all the knockouts anywhere, so the CU can be added to in the future (what do I care, I hear you say). I asked my scheme on sealing remaining holes, they said 'there is no specific requirement to seal holes around cables, unless there's specific statement from the manufacture to do so (although I've seen bulletin from IET, that someone posted, suggesting you should) . Wylex are doing a pattress, so you can do rear entry with surface cables, but they don't seem to be available yet.

if you are strugling for space, slot it

 

[Midwest]

Yep hindsight's a wonderful thing.

 

[Midwest]

Personally I wouldn't slot the top anyway, think it looks a bit pants IMO.

 

[shanky887614]

Personally I wouldn't slot the top anyway, think it looks a bit pants IMO.

? do you not do your boards tight to the ceiling? it looks better than 20 stuffers out of the top.

if i had a fuseboard changed and they did that they would be changing it unless its in a garage then it might be acceptable.

comerical/industrial installs always have a header for the panel or have multiple 2" bushes from header

 

[marc8]

? do you not do your boards tight to the ceiling? it looks better than 20 stuffers out of the top.

if i had a fuseboard changed and they did that they would be changing it unless its in a garage then it might be acceptable.

comerical/industrial installs always have a header for the panel or have multiple 2" bushes from header

doing some new build flats now & have installed consumer unit at correct height & because of depth of wall & trying to get the armour cable down from switch fuse location at mains we have installed 100 x 50mm box trunking & have installed gland inside with a fly lead down to board, we have vertical coming down wall & then horizontal above consumer unit all way across cupboard wall.

the above has allowed us to have consumer unit under the metal trunk & isolator for the PV & meter above the trunking, this way all contained within trunking & can drill through & install grommets as before.
looks quite neat.also have screwed through metal with fixings through the gland terminal & this has also at same time earthed the trunking.

 

[davesparks]

I'm sure I've read that wrong, but it sounds like you've got the gland floating in the middle of the trunking with just a screw and rawl plug through the banjo to hold it and earth it?

 

[marc8]

I'm sure I've read that wrong, but it sounds like you've got the gland floating in the middle of the trunking with just a screw and rawl plug through the banjo to hold it and earth it?

who said screw & raw plug used self tapping termination point to go onto the metal trunk base.
also being compartment trunk as i had some left over not sure how to hold cable in, it only just fits in ?
not sure if i am that bothered about 1 meter of cable coming down in trunk supporting the cable

 

[davesparks]

As I said, it was just the way it appeared to me.

What is a self tapping termination point?

 

[shanky887614]

As I said, it was just the way it appeared to me.

What is a self tapping termination point?

self drilling screws, personally i would have used an 8mm bolt (dont carry 6mm, roofers are not worth using cause there pressed heads and they can pop off)

dont believe me, get an impact driver and tighten a 6mm roofer and bolt as much as it will go, the head will come off the roofer but not the bolt

 

[marc8]

fancy name for a screw but no plug

 

[davesparks]

So you've used a self tapping screw for an earth connection?

 

[shanky887614]

So you've used a self tapping screw for an earth connection?

basically he has, i wouldnt trust it personally, would have been better leaving it loose and bolt through the banjo and flying lead than that

 

[davesparks]

No, better to do it properly and actually fit the gland to something the way it was designed to be installed.

 

[marc8]

not really as at the other end we have a full armour gland on metal switch fuse that has an earth running back to the MET, so we have our one termination point covered & made off correctly.
what i did not want was to try & dress two armour cables of on the top of the consumer unit & then cable entry points for solar meter & isolator. PV has armour cable running to riser for the connection point & another isolator before going on roof.
self tapping screw used is a nice big flat head bit like the orbix fixings. also it's just an extra point of earth nothing fancy & we did not even need to do that.