I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed

SparkyChick · May 26, 2018

AJshep said:
Anyway I'm old fashioned I still like to use a RB4 junction boxes for some lighting rewires, I just use wagos and put my JB in a accessible location. If they brought out a nice Junction box ( like a heating wiring centre) with cable clamps and fixed pushed in terminals. I'd be spending my money

Something like these?

Products and Benefits - Surewire - http://www.surewire.co.uk/products/light-and-switch-junction-boxes/products-and-benefits/

pirate · May 26, 2018

Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat

[ElectriciansForums.net] I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed

then I will have to disagree!

Andy78 · May 26, 2018

a-z electrics said:
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.. in my opinion these offer a far more reliable and consistent way of doing it rather than looping in and out of each lamp, even if they have pushin terminals.. each splitter has an input and 3 outputs, so hardly breaking the bank in the general scheme of things.

You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.

telectrix · May 26, 2018

pirate said:
Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat

then I will have to disagree!

i did mean the aircraft. obsolete in 1936 but crippled Bismark in 1941. oh. and sank a few Italian ships in a "safe" harbour.

AJshep · May 26, 2018

SparkyChick said:
Something like these?

Products and Benefits - Surewire - http://www.surewire.co.uk/products/light-and-switch-junction-boxes/products-and-benefits/

Nice exactly like that ! Thanks for the info

a-z electrics · May 26, 2018

Andy78 said:
You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.

Doomed · May 26, 2018

Off topic, but the swordfish saw my father through WWII, good piece of kit

a-z electrics · May 26, 2018

Andy78 said:
You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.

Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.

Andy78 · May 26, 2018

a-z electrics said:
Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.

I'm a bit lost with what you mean then. I thought you meant you used an external junction box at each downlight.
Yes a connection at a downlight is a junction but I don't know what you mean by better reliability. What would this be replacing ?

I just connect into each downlight with no external connections or boxes.

AJshep · May 26, 2018

a-z electrics said:
small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.

But...
If if something happened to the joint, or a cable you would have to take the floor up to find the joint before you find the issue.

If you have a issue with a joint at a light is easy you can just pop the light out and get straight to the connection IMO this makes it easier to break down faults.
Its always best to avoid putting a load of joint boxes under the floor.

123 · May 26, 2018

I don't see what I could use these for in lighting. Even with LED panels as they don't accept flex terminations they don't appeal to me. Downlights I'd use Loop In Loop Out that comes with the fitting. Decorative light fittings to replace pendants, where the heck do I hide that thing?

However they could be brilliant as others have said for adding a spur on a ring or radial circuit when the existing cable is tight (if they ever make a suitable version)

telectrix · May 27, 2018

what i meant with my post about the LED panels is that i had to add an extra 4 panels. this meant adding 4 branches to the 1.5mm T/E.as it happens i did my connections in the plug-in connectors (greenbrook from screwfux):

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/greenbrook-20a-3-pole-lighting-connector-250v-pack-of-2/2834r

sparksfly · May 28, 2018

AJshep said:
Nice exactly like that ! Thanks for the info

SparkyChick said:
Something like these?

Products and Benefits - Surewire - http://www.surewire.co.uk/products/light-and-switch-junction-boxes/products-and-benefits/

A customer of mine, who liked to buy most of the electrical materials, bought these which was nice to try...I like the idea....but i was not that impressed with the quality of these. The problem I had when I wanted to terminate all wires then fix the box in an awkward loft space. Using all T/E cable the push fits started to move away from the centre block due to me moving(flexing) the box exposing the metal interconnections (looked like a mini busbar). In this case it would have been quicker using pushfits + empty jcn box... I have also used the hager downlight jcn box over the years (J501) (2x T/E cables in one clamp...yes.. you can) also adapted with push fits.Technical Properties J501 - http://www.hager.co.uk/product-catalogue/wiring-accessories/junction-boxes/downlighter-junction-box/downlighter-junction-box/j501/41729.htm

AJshep · May 28, 2018

Thanks @sparksfly. I know we are going off topic a bit here.
Shame things don't have the same build quality anymore, the surewire product is no good if it falls apart

Quite often when doing Large occupied rewires (especially If alone) I find it useful to re-wire the lights using a large joint box method, I just find it takes the pressure out of the job, as you can concentrate on a few lights or area at a time and not need to worry.
I'm not a big fan of feeding the light switch and the 3 plate method is a PITA if you have decorative fittings.
So in that respect I see the benefit of the product mentioned in the thread.

I'd still much rather have a nice accessible location where I could do a nice joint box, all labelled up. Now I know from reading past threads here some members think it's a bit rough and call it "spider wiring" but IMOH if done correctly (which is not hard) it makes a nice neat job. That is easy to maintain and fault find, but feeding the switch is the norm now, it's just all round and easier to understand I suppose.

I do expect this product to do quite well though, Its pretty well labeled and idiot proff (to some degree) I reckon I could tell my wife how to wire a basic light circuit with these and she would probably be able to do it. So our European multitrade friends will have no problem, neither will the passionate DIYer.

I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed

SparkyChick

pirate

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Andy78

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telectrix

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AJshep

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a-z electrics

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Doomed

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a-z electrics

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Andy78

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AJshep

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123

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telectrix

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sparksfly

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AJshep

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